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Best Way to Fix This?

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Old August 13th, 2017, 02:42 PM
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Best Way to Fix This?

I saw some rust on the lower body panel behind the rear wheel on my 66, I put some aircraft stripper on it to test how it works and to see what I was working with. I have several holes there as you can see.
Is a patch panel the best bet or cut it out and patch with generic sheet metal? Metal is really thin there as you can imagine. You can also see the crappy paint job the previous owner did. It came right off with the stripper showing the original Target Red underneath.
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Old August 13th, 2017, 03:47 PM
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You can go either way, sheet metal works fine an is a whole lot cheaper than a patch panel.
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Old August 13th, 2017, 05:06 PM
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Who will be doing the repair??? If you use sheet metal, in addition to welding, you will need the skills for bending, shaping, and fitting to conform to the quarter... Also depends on extent of metal replacement... With a patch panel, cut, fit, and weld, no shaping or bending for the most part...
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Old August 23rd, 2017, 06:01 AM
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The damage was much more extensive once I hit it with the blaster. Tomorrow my patch panel arrives.
This is my question: I bought a flange tool to make a nice flange that the piece can set down into that makes the patch flush with the existing body. It also has the ability to punch spot weld holes that are 3/16 inch. What is the best method for joining the panel to the existing sheet metal? Should I perimeter tack weld the patch along it's edge at the flange and grind them down after or just make spot weld holes along the flange and spot weld it in, maybe both? My MIG seems too hot and hard to adjust and I'm afraid to warp the panel. I do have access to a TIG and my buddy is great at that.
Your thoughts?
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Old August 23rd, 2017, 10:50 AM
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I had almost the same problem on my pass. quarter, but it didn't go down under as yours does. I had to cut out and area approx. 2"X8" and I used my mig to weld it. You have to be very careful not to create too much heat up into the panel. I usually just do a series of spot welds and eventually connect them all together. Stop after just a few to cool the metal, then move to the opposite side, back and forth. It came out good and only needed a small amount of filler. Buy a small roll of .023 wire and lower your power some, should be no problem.
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Old August 23rd, 2017, 11:16 AM
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I have learned from past experience that the metal above the area that has already rusted through, is also compromised. For that reason, I prefer to cut at least 4 or 5 inches above the highest rusted through area. If you can get to the backside easily, I would sand blast it clean so you can see exactly where the problem metal ends. This will also allow you to make a clean weld of the new panel to the old panel. If you flange the metal, make sure that the new panel is aligned exactly where you want it before welding.
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Old August 23rd, 2017, 07:39 PM
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If you have access to torches, I prefer that for brazing.Flange,yes, hole punch ,yes, Melt the brass in the holes, cool with water.Also, start welding/brazing from the center outward.that prevents the metal from creeping, causing warping.This older metal is very sensitive for M.I.G welding. The thing that must be done to brass welds is drill wire brush all the slag off.
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