Anyone had to fix a sticky throttle cable? What did you find to be the best way to fix a sticking throttle cable?

 

Replace it or get a stronger return spring. It's possible the inside lining is worn through causing your problems.
I suppose removing it and soaking it in oil might work also but that might invite other problems.

 

The BEST way is to replace it with a new part.

Anything less is delaying the inevitable

Beware that your body ground is intact, for it it's not, then the electricity can go thru throttle, trans, and/or shift cables and foo them bar.

 

You might try taking it off and
get some graphite down in it.

 

As others suggested replacement is normally the only real cure.

 

Actually, that's the ONLY way to fix it. The problem is usually caused by wear of the cable inside the sheath. Eventually, the individual wires in the cable break, and once that happens it's only a matter of time until the cable sticks the throttle open. I've had this happen to me twice, once in my first car (a 68 VC) and once in an 85 Chevy truck. I cut the cables open both times and found the frayed and broken cable inside the sheath.

Note to Toyota owners: Both times this happened to me the throttle was stuck full open and yet I was able to safely stop the vehicles by standing on the brakes. The VC even had four wheel drums.

 

I agree with others.... I had to replace the cable in my 76, as it was sticking under the plastic tube between the firewall before the throttle, I sprayed lithium spray inside the tube which smelled nasty even in the car. It put and extra spring to pull it back off idle as it wouldn't return all the way. It finally broke. Replacing it was a bit of a 'pita'.

 

How bout a lead on where to buy one? Thanks everyone, I wasn't sure if there was a particular lube that works well, tried double springs to no unveil.

 

I picked up a stainless steal cable kit from performance improvements in Canada which came with a handy adapter with a set screw for easy adjustment, If I could explain without going on too much . The adapter was a hollow piece in which the throttle cable slid through to the length that was necessary then tighten up the set screw and cut the access off. The Mr gasket universal one from summit #5657 is very similar to the one I used, I forget the exact length I purchased. I hope this helps !

 

I just picked up a universal one on summit for like $30.

 

have you tried searching the interwebs?
RockAuto.com?
Fusick.com?
The usual suspects...

This popped right up on the internet, well under $300 delivered

http://www.oldsobsolete.com/products...le-nos-408863/

At that price I would be using a bicycle cable, just the inner part, jerry-rigged at the carb, and with a minibike type length adjuster inside the car.

Oh, and as for stopping a runaway engine, you here [all y'all] and everyone in the world should by now be aware that you can TURN OFF THE IGNITION any time you want. Runaway engine would be a prime example of when you would want to do that.

Yes, use the brakes as well.... but TURN THE @$%@#$%@ ENGINE OFF !!!

 

Now where's the fun in that? Do you want to coast limply to the shoulder, or do you want a story you can tell?

- Eric

 

Heck just jump the hell out and tell the Wife its her car now !!!

 

You guys have PIC's after the install? Are you guys running a BB Olds? I did buy the Summit racing spring return when I was trying to retro fit the Edelbrock 1406 you recommended and its going to work out great on the 58 F100 I have. Oh I did do an internet search and Olds Obsolete did not ever appear thanks for that link

 

Spectre Performance 2431 Braided Throttle Cable




$39.00



Mr. Gasket 5657 Steel Braided Throttle Cable Kit $29.00



My two choices, leaning toward Spectre looks more adaptable to me, whats your opinions?

 

I purchased the spectre for my 76 350, it worked great, I run an edl 600 cfm, I also purchased the spectre stainless throttle kit as well as springs and a 1" spacer for my set-up. I had no problems hooking up my carb. These parts are very adjustable for most applications.

 

Yep, I learned that back in the '80s when my throttle return spring popped off its mount and locked the throttle wide open while I was on a busy roadway. Took me all of 3 seconds to figure out I needed to turn the key off. The engine dieseled and kept the power steering running well enough for me to change lanes and turn off the main road. All under control, no drama or high speed runaway acceleration for miles on end. Just turned the ignition off and pulled into a parking lot.

edit: nice use of the totally inclusive form of y'all. Have you been traveling down south?

 

There is this one on ebay for $11.99

http://www.ebay.com/itm/390020454573...84.m1423.l2649

 

The problem, of course, is that you lose power steering (and power brakes as soon as you use up all the vacuum in the booster). My one ton crewcab dually needed the PS and had a hydroboost, so I didn't really want to kill the engine. The reality is that even with drum brakes, the brakes will stop the car at wide open throttle. Car and Driver magazine proved this during the Audi witch hunt in the 1980s. I pulled over first, slowed down, THEN killed the engine.

Oh, and don't worry about locking the steering column. Unless you've removed the backdrive linkage (or have one of the recently-recalled Chevy Cruzes), the ignition cannot be turned to LOCK if the trans is not in PARK (or Reverse for a manual).

 

Some of the ambulances we used to drive were F_rd 460s, which used a single belt to drive their P/S pumps, and, if I recall, their hydroboost units as well, which was not adequate to the task. We used to throw them all the time, and you'd know it as soon as you did because the wheel and the pedal would turn to stone. The next task was to quickly decide which nearby block had the best selection of magazine stands and restaurants, wheel on over there as fast as possible, with neck muscles bulging, find a good spot to park, and then call in on the radio that we'd had a mechanical failure at that spot and were out of service awaiting MTD for a repair. It was usually good for half a day if rest and relaxation.

- Eric

 

Actually, the hydroboost has an accumulator that should provide 2-3 applications of the brake pedal before all assist is lost, just like the vacuum boosters. This is a federal requirement.

 

2-3 times ain't much in NYC traffic.

- Eric

 

Hey, learn to downshift...

 

Actually, we used to downshift those C6s and TH400s constantly. The abuse we meted out to the TH400s behind 454s, pushing 10,000 pounds 24 hours a day for over 100,000 miles gave me great respect for them.

- Eric

 

Thanks for the link. I am not sure if this is interchangeable with the Olds Toronado. Anyone know, or maybe tried this cable on the Toro?

 

Or shove it into neutral to keep brakes and steering control if a blown engine is the price of saving a life.
Easy enough to say sat at my keyboard, maybe not so simple when you are in a real world emergency.


Roger

 

I've been there and it wasn't a big deal. Had a front tire blowout at 70 MPH on the wife's car once, too. No rollover, loss of control, fiery crash, etc. - just braked and pulled over to the shoulder, then changed the tire. Maybe I just think more logically and have a clearer head than most people and can calmly react to events.

 

I know this is an old thread but I'm having a somewhat similar issue with my '69 Cutlass. In the past 2 weeks the car has stopped returning to idle when I take my foot off the gas while cruising. This only happens after I've been driving for an extended period of time (2 hours +) and she'll run about 300RPM higher than she would otherwise. This can be disconcerting to say the least as I'm still accelerating at times when I expect engine braking to help me slow (e.g. entering a curve or coming to a stop light).

She's setup with a '70-'72 Qjet and intake, with a stock replacement accelerator cable that's about 3 years old. My first step was to replace the return spring at the carb but that didn't make a difference. When this phenomenon occurs I can bring the engine speed back to normal by pulling up on the underside of the gas pedal with the top of my foot. I believe this means the cable or pedal itself is at fault.

Anyone dealt with this?

 

Before spending any money on any parts, disconnect the cable at the carb and actuate the carb by hand with the engine running. Does it return to idle normally or not? If not, the problem is in the carb, not the accelerator.