Best way to fix a sticking throttle cable
#2
Replace it or get a stronger return spring. It's possible the inside lining is worn through causing your problems.
I suppose removing it and soaking it in oil might work also but that might invite other problems.
I suppose removing it and soaking it in oil might work also but that might invite other problems.
#3
The BEST way is to replace it with a new part.
Anything less is delaying the inevitable
Beware that your body ground is intact, for it it's not, then the electricity can go thru throttle, trans, and/or shift cables and foo them bar.
Anything less is delaying the inevitable
Beware that your body ground is intact, for it it's not, then the electricity can go thru throttle, trans, and/or shift cables and foo them bar.
#6
Actually, that's the ONLY way to fix it. The problem is usually caused by wear of the cable inside the sheath. Eventually, the individual wires in the cable break, and once that happens it's only a matter of time until the cable sticks the throttle open. I've had this happen to me twice, once in my first car (a 68 VC) and once in an 85 Chevy truck. I cut the cables open both times and found the frayed and broken cable inside the sheath.
Note to Toyota owners: Both times this happened to me the throttle was stuck full open and yet I was able to safely stop the vehicles by standing on the brakes. The VC even had four wheel drums.
Note to Toyota owners: Both times this happened to me the throttle was stuck full open and yet I was able to safely stop the vehicles by standing on the brakes. The VC even had four wheel drums.
Last edited by joe_padavano; March 2nd, 2014 at 03:20 PM. Reason: Typo
#7
I agree with others.... I had to replace the cable in my 76, as it was sticking under the plastic tube between the firewall before the throttle, I sprayed lithium spray inside the tube which smelled nasty even in the car. It put and extra spring to pull it back off idle as it wouldn't return all the way. It finally broke. Replacing it was a bit of a 'pita'.
#9
I picked up a stainless steal cable kit from performance improvements in Canada which came with a handy adapter with a set screw for easy adjustment, If I could explain without going on too much . The adapter was a hollow piece in which the throttle cable slid through to the length that was necessary then tighten up the set screw and cut the access off. The Mr gasket universal one from summit #5657 is very similar to the one I used, I forget the exact length I purchased. I hope this helps !
Last edited by 76olds; March 2nd, 2014 at 04:36 PM.
#11
have you tried searching the interwebs?
RockAuto.com?
Fusick.com?
The usual suspects...
This popped right up on the internet, well under $300 delivered
http://www.oldsobsolete.com/products...le-nos-408863/
At that price I would be using a bicycle cable, just the inner part, jerry-rigged at the carb, and with a minibike type length adjuster inside the car.
Oh, and as for stopping a runaway engine, you here [all y'all] and everyone in the world should by now be aware that you can TURN OFF THE IGNITION any time you want. Runaway engine would be a prime example of when you would want to do that.
Yes, use the brakes as well.... but TURN THE @$%@#$%@ ENGINE OFF !!!
RockAuto.com?
Fusick.com?
The usual suspects...
This popped right up on the internet, well under $300 delivered
http://www.oldsobsolete.com/products...le-nos-408863/
At that price I would be using a bicycle cable, just the inner part, jerry-rigged at the carb, and with a minibike type length adjuster inside the car.
Oh, and as for stopping a runaway engine, you here [all y'all] and everyone in the world should by now be aware that you can TURN OFF THE IGNITION any time you want. Runaway engine would be a prime example of when you would want to do that.
Yes, use the brakes as well.... but TURN THE @$%@#$%@ ENGINE OFF !!!
#12
#14
I picked up a stainless steal cable kit from performance improvements in Canada which came with a handy adapter with a set screw for easy adjustment, If I could explain without going on too much . The adapter was a hollow piece in which the throttle cable slid through to the length that was necessary then tighten up the set screw and cut the access off. The Mr gasket universal one from summit #5657 is very similar to the one I used, I forget the exact length I purchased. I hope this helps !
#15
#16
I purchased the spectre for my 76 350, it worked great, I run an edl 600 cfm, I also purchased the spectre stainless throttle kit as well as springs and a 1" spacer for my set-up. I had no problems hooking up my carb. These parts are very adjustable for most applications.
#17
Oh, and as for stopping a runaway engine, you here [all y'all] and everyone in the world should by now be aware that you can TURN OFF THE IGNITION any time you want. Runaway engine would be a prime example of when you would want to do that.
Yes, use the brakes as well.... but TURN THE @$%@#$%@ ENGINE OFF !!!
Yes, use the brakes as well.... but TURN THE @$%@#$%@ ENGINE OFF !!!
edit: nice use of the totally inclusive form of y'all. Have you been traveling down south?
#18
#19
The problem, of course, is that you lose power steering (and power brakes as soon as you use up all the vacuum in the booster). My one ton crewcab dually needed the PS and had a hydroboost, so I didn't really want to kill the engine. The reality is that even with drum brakes, the brakes will stop the car at wide open throttle. Car and Driver magazine proved this during the Audi witch hunt in the 1980s. I pulled over first, slowed down, THEN killed the engine.
Oh, and don't worry about locking the steering column. Unless you've removed the backdrive linkage (or have one of the recently-recalled Chevy Cruzes), the ignition cannot be turned to LOCK if the trans is not in PARK (or Reverse for a manual).
Oh, and don't worry about locking the steering column. Unless you've removed the backdrive linkage (or have one of the recently-recalled Chevy Cruzes), the ignition cannot be turned to LOCK if the trans is not in PARK (or Reverse for a manual).
#20
Some of the ambulances we used to drive were F_rd 460s, which used a single belt to drive their P/S pumps, and, if I recall, their hydroboost units as well, which was not adequate to the task. We used to throw them all the time, and you'd know it as soon as you did because the wheel and the pedal would turn to stone. The next task was to quickly decide which nearby block had the best selection of magazine stands and restaurants, wheel on over there as fast as possible, with neck muscles bulging, find a good spot to park, and then call in on the radio that we'd had a mechanical failure at that spot and were out of service awaiting MTD for a repair. It was usually good for half a day if rest and relaxation.
- Eric
- Eric
#21
#24
Actually, we used to downshift those C6s and TH400s constantly. The abuse we meted out to the TH400s behind 454s, pushing 10,000 pounds 24 hours a day for over 100,000 miles gave me great respect for them.
- Eric
- Eric
#25
Thanks for the link. I am not sure if this is interchangeable with the Olds Toronado. Anyone know, or maybe tried this cable on the Toro?
#26
Oh, and as for stopping a runaway engine, you here [all y'all] and everyone in the world should by now be aware that you can TURN OFF THE IGNITION any time you want. Runaway engine would be a prime example of when you would want to do that.
Yes, use the brakes as well.... but TURN THE @$%@#$%@ ENGINE OFF !!!
Yes, use the brakes as well.... but TURN THE @$%@#$%@ ENGINE OFF !!!
Or shove it into neutral to keep brakes and steering control if a blown engine is the price of saving a life.
Easy enough to say sat at my keyboard, maybe not so simple when you are in a real world emergency.
Roger
#27
I've been there and it wasn't a big deal. Had a front tire blowout at 70 MPH on the wife's car once, too. No rollover, loss of control, fiery crash, etc. - just braked and pulled over to the shoulder, then changed the tire. Maybe I just think more logically and have a clearer head than most people and can calmly react to events.
Last edited by Fun71; March 6th, 2014 at 07:09 AM.
#28
I know this is an old thread but I'm having a somewhat similar issue with my '69 Cutlass. In the past 2 weeks the car has stopped returning to idle when I take my foot off the gas while cruising. This only happens after I've been driving for an extended period of time (2 hours +) and she'll run about 300RPM higher than she would otherwise. This can be disconcerting to say the least as I'm still accelerating at times when I expect engine braking to help me slow (e.g. entering a curve or coming to a stop light).
She's setup with a '70-'72 Qjet and intake, with a stock replacement accelerator cable that's about 3 years old. My first step was to replace the return spring at the carb but that didn't make a difference. When this phenomenon occurs I can bring the engine speed back to normal by pulling up on the underside of the gas pedal with the top of my foot. I believe this means the cable or pedal itself is at fault.
Anyone dealt with this?
She's setup with a '70-'72 Qjet and intake, with a stock replacement accelerator cable that's about 3 years old. My first step was to replace the return spring at the carb but that didn't make a difference. When this phenomenon occurs I can bring the engine speed back to normal by pulling up on the underside of the gas pedal with the top of my foot. I believe this means the cable or pedal itself is at fault.
Anyone dealt with this?
#29
I know this is an old thread but I'm having a somewhat similar issue with my '69 Cutlass. In the past 2 weeks the car has stopped returning to idle when I take my foot off the gas while cruising. This only happens after I've been driving for an extended period of time (2 hours +) and she'll run about 300RPM higher than she would otherwise. This can be disconcerting to say the least as I'm still accelerating at times when I expect engine braking to help me slow (e.g. entering a curve or coming to a stop light).
She's setup with a '70-'72 Qjet and intake, with a stock replacement accelerator cable that's about 3 years old. My first step was to replace the return spring at the carb but that didn't make a difference. When this phenomenon occurs I can bring the engine speed back to normal by pulling up on the underside of the gas pedal with the top of my foot. I believe this means the cable or pedal itself is at fault.
Anyone dealt with this?
She's setup with a '70-'72 Qjet and intake, with a stock replacement accelerator cable that's about 3 years old. My first step was to replace the return spring at the carb but that didn't make a difference. When this phenomenon occurs I can bring the engine speed back to normal by pulling up on the underside of the gas pedal with the top of my foot. I believe this means the cable or pedal itself is at fault.
Anyone dealt with this?
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June 29th, 2012 12:58 PM