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back window trim screw replacement;

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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 06:25 AM
  #1  
hamm36's Avatar
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From: Dallas
back window trim screw replacement;

This is how I replace the lower back trim clips.

1. photo is the hole.
2. photo is a tear drop shaped 3M Strip Calk.
3. hard to see, 3M weather strip adhesive on threads of screw.
4. line up with screw in the clip and tighten down without over doing it. The clip will mash the Calk and make a good seal.

I did all the clips on the lower back this way. Lets see how it holds.

Last edited by hamm36; Dec 30, 2010 at 08:05 PM.
Old Jan 3, 2010 | 07:15 AM
  #2  
67 Cutlass's Avatar
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Looks good to me! Once the trim is back on, noone will ever know.
Where did you order the studs from?
A friend had suggested that I use Locktite to seal and hold the screw when I do mine.
Old Jan 3, 2010 | 07:42 AM
  #3  
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That works.

Most glass shops and body shops have a stud welder.

When I worked at GM Framingham in 1972, they used a huge fixture and stud gun to attach the studs.....
Old Jan 3, 2010 | 07:48 AM
  #4  
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You've done the best you can, but drilling holes and using a screw is an invitation to the dreaded pinchweld rust. Welding studs back on is by far the preferred solution.
Old Jan 3, 2010 | 04:25 PM
  #5  
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The paint shop had a stud wielder, but tip was not long enough to do it. They suggested I use silicon to hold the clips. I was/am pissed at the fact they did not put them in before the paint. I could go on, but I would regress. This was posted to help with ideas, when the best is not available.

Last edited by hamm36; Jan 3, 2010 at 06:23 PM.
Old Jan 3, 2010 | 04:33 PM
  #6  
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Good information, another thing to remember when you check out a body shop, make sure they can do the right kind work on your car
Old Jan 3, 2010 | 06:11 PM
  #7  
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The body shop made those dreaded holes and I think this was the best way to remedy it. Looks like that method should work! That car will probably see water only a couple times a year on wash days anyway!
Keep it up, Carl!

Even if a shop says they can do (or will do) a certain job, WILL they really? Carl knows this answer...
Old Jan 3, 2010 | 09:08 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by hamm36
The paint shop had a stud wielder, but tip was not long enough to do it. They suggested I use silicon to hold the clips. I was/am pissed at the fact they did not put them in before the paint. I could go on, but I would regress. This was posted to help with ideas, when the best is not available.
I suspect that if you went to most body shops you would find they don't have the stud gun stuff for putting these on in that spot. They buy the stud guns for pulling dents.

Why do you think they invented the screw in studs??

You could always pull the screws and dip the threads in a thick paint before screwing them in and follow up by dabbing some more paint on at the base of the stud where it meets the metal after they are in.

I think you will be fine the way it is.
Old Jan 4, 2010 | 06:42 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by 70Post
I suspect that if you went to most body shops you would find they don't have the stud gun stuff for putting these on in that spot. They buy the stud guns for pulling dents.
Actually, they are the same. All you need is a different tip for the trim studs. I have a stud welder and both tips. Was not very expensive on ebay.
Old Jan 4, 2010 | 08:42 PM
  #10  
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I know they are the same gun with different tips....I've used them a number of times also. But a lot of these shops buy the basic setup for pulling dents with the spot-welded-on "nails", etc.
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