When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Title says it all. 72 cutlass trunk lock is broke. Key fits and turns fine, it just doesn't unlatch. I'm guessing going from the inside wont be any different from turning the key.
Just drill it? Or will I have to try to unbolt the mechanism from through the trunk. Btw, no way I can fit through the backseat. DSCN0257.jpg
Yeah, found that. But in my case, the key turns, I doubt twisting the lock will make much difference. So not sure if doing anything other than trying to disassemble with a 3 foot extension will help.
IIRC, there are 3 bolts that hold the mechanism in the lid and 2 that hold the base in the bottom of the trunk. I cant remember if 1) the latch mechanism will drop out if I just remove the 3 bolts, or 2) if the 2 bolts that hold the bottom part to the trunk are accessable through the back seat.
Any thoughts on that?
Originally Posted by starfire
You've got the hard part done (removing the back seat). Just use the extensions to get your socket on the bolts.
IIRC, there are 3 bolts that hold the mechanism in the lid and 2 that hold the base in the bottom of the trunk. I cant remember if 1) the latch mechanism will drop out if I just remove the 3 bolts, or 2) if the 2 bolts that hold the bottom part to the trunk are accessable through the back seat.
Any thoughts on that?
I don't see how unbolting the latch will help, since it is still held in place by the actuator rod that comes out of the back of the lock cylinder. You would need to unbolt the striker on the trunk lip itself.
On the other hand, the lock DOES have an "overriding" feature such that the power trunk release mechanism can turn the lock actuating rod without the lock cylinder turning. The rod is about 3/16" x 3/8" and sticks all the way through the latch to interface with the power lock cylinder. If you don't have a power lock you should be able to see the tip of the rod. Of course, that's not exactly a standard socket size, but if you can get to it and turn it CCW (as seen from the back seat) that should release the latch. If it doesn't turn, the latch is jammed.
Well, I'll take a shot at turning the interior mechanism. I thought if the key turned, that would turn too.
Second option would be the latch mounted to the trunk floor, if I can reach that.
Then drill it if that doesn't work.
I don't think it's possible for that actuating bar to fall out. Have someone turn the key while you watch to see if it turns. Try pushing down gently on the lid as you turn the key. Had one where the latch would stick sometimes if you didn't relieve the tension on the striker.
I don't think it's possible for that actuating bar to fall out.
I agree, I don't think the actuating rod can fall out.... but if the retaining spring that holds the rod in the slot at the end of the cylinder breaks or just comes off, the rod can slide up and out of the slot but will not fall out of the latch itself.... As others have said, if you can see the end of the rod turn when the key is turned, then the latch itself is sticking (or broke)....
Yeah, I'll give it a shot. But kinda got the feeling the latch is jammed (just my luck). Anyone know if the 2 bolts that hold the trunk floor part are accessable through the back seat? Cant even see them now with carpet in the way.
Trunk key turns, but will not unlatch - 72 Cutlass Convertible
I have the same situation - trunk key turns, but will not unlatch (72 Cultlass Convertible).
The trunk is full of large boxes that do not lend themselves to trying to get at anything back there with an extension of sorts, though I will try again one more time before drilling it out.
Any advice on drilling it out (so that I don't damage anything else)?
And, in replacing it, is there any difference in quality of the reproduction ones? There is certainly a price difference.
On the other hand, the lock DOES have an "overriding" feature such that the power trunk release mechanism can turn the lock actuating rod without the lock cylinder turning. The rod is about 3/16" x 3/8" and sticks all the way through the latch to interface with the power lock cylinder. If you don't have a power lock you should be able to see the tip of the rod. Of course, that's not exactly a standard socket size, but if you can get to it and turn it CCW (as seen from the back seat) that should release the latch. If it doesn't turn, the latch is jammed.
In comparing a picture of a power trunk release and a regular one, I can't figure out where the "overriding" rod you speak of is.
Maybe it's just that it's late and I'm not thinking clearly, but I am not seeing how drilling the lock will do anything since the key turns the cylinder as it is now. Won't drilling the lock just allow access for you to turn the rod that actuates the mechanism? If so, you can do that through the back seat with an extension as everyone has been saying.
Maybe it's just that it's late and I'm not thinking clearly, but I am not seeing how drilling the lock will do anything since the key turns the cylinder as it is now. Won't drilling the lock just allow access for you to turn the rod that actuates the mechanism? If so, you can do that through the back seat with an extension as everyone has been saying.
Unfortunately, the trunk is full of large boxes that do not lend themselves to trying to get at anything back there with a screwdriver attached to an extension.
I will try again one more time before drilling it out - maybe i can squeeze between the boxes...
So I was able to clear some of the stuff out of the trunk over the back seat support, and cobbled together a gizmo made out of an old hockey stick, screwdriver, flashlight.
I stuck the screwdriver in the slot next to the shaft and turned it counter-clockwise.
It did not open the trunk, and the result on the outside is that the key, that would turn clockwise with some resistance now has zero resistance.
It seems to me that maybe the shaft, that is poking out slipped off of the key mechanism?
Not sure what to try next...
Interior trunk key shaft
How much the shaft is sticking out after turning it counter-clockwise.
Can it be turn with a flathead screwdriver jammed in next to it, or am I going to need to figure out how to get a little vise grip in there?
The added thickness of the screwdriver blade in the slot may be the problem. What you really need is some sort of socket that fits over the stub of the rod. You might want to partially flatten some steel brake tubing until it can snugly fit over the rod and attach that to your stick.
The added thickness of the screwdriver blade in the slot may be the problem. What you really need is some sort of socket that fits over the stub of the rod. You might want to partially flatten some steel brake tubing until it can snugly fit over the rod and attach that to your stick.
Drilling the lock isn't going to help as all you will get is to the other side of that rectangular slot. The thing Joe is directing you to is the lock cylinder rod. If your car had no cylinder and rod (like mine), you would simply stick a screwdriver in through the hole, into the slot, then turn (which is exactly what you are doing from the other side.) It takes a good 90 degree turn, and it may help to have someone push down some on the top edge while you are giving it the love.
I did this exact think on my car, when the trunk lock wouldn't turn with the key I had. taped a screw driver to a stick, wedged it into the latch next to the rod from the lock cylinder and turned it from the inside. popped it right open.
Well, I seem to have discovered the root of the problem after digging some of the stuff in the trunk out from over the back seat support....A sweatshirt got stuck in the latch when the trunk was shut. Arrrrg!
Am I going to bend and mess something up if I yank hard on it to pull it into the trunk and try dislodge it?
I don't see how unbolting the latch will help, since it is still held in place by the actuator rod that comes out of the back of the lock cylinder. You would need to unbolt the striker on the trunk lip itself.
On the other hand, the lock DOES have an "overriding" feature such that the power trunk release mechanism can turn the lock actuating rod without the lock cylinder turning. The rod is about 3/16" x 3/8" and sticks all the way through the latch to interface with the power lock cylinder. If you don't have a power lock you should be able to see the tip of the rod. Of course, that's not exactly a standard socket size, but if you can get to it and turn it CCW (as seen from the back seat) that should release the latch. If it doesn't turn, the latch is jammed.
The lock is now turning with zero resistance clock-wise (from the outside) and the same with my screwdriver gizmo from the inside. Something has celarly broken off or become disengaged.
Any chance I would have a shot by removing the two 9/16"(?) bolts that hold the latch receiver into the trunk floor bracket and then bending/muscling the actuating rod until the mechanism came out?
The sweatshirt is too thick to be going anywhere when i tug on it :-(
Seems to me you've wasted enough time with this. If you can access the two latch "catch" bolts (7/16"), remove them and the trunk will open. Do this all the time at the junk yards to gain access to locked trunks. It's easy to do with a long extension...and, the bolt heads will have left a footprint for proper positioning when you reinstall them.
If you can access the two latch "catch" bolts (7/16"), remove them and the trunk will open. Do this all the time at the junk yards to gain access to locked trunks. It's easy to do with a long extension...and, the bolt heads will have left a footprint for proper positioning when you reinstall them.
No...those you show retain the latch ***'y. on the trunk lid. I'm talking about the ones that would be seen below those that retain the catch bracket mounted in the trunk.
No...those you show retain the latch ***'y. on the trunk lid. I'm talking about the ones that would be seen below those that retain the catch bracket mounted in the trunk.
That's a really good idea. Wish I'd thought of it!
Unbolt the latch from the trunklid and the rod to the lock cylinder still holds it in place. Unbolt the striker from the rear panel, however, and the trunk lid opens. Very nice.
No...those you show retain the latch ***'y. on the trunk lid. I'm talking about the ones that would be seen below those that retain the catch bracket mounted in the trunk.
No...those you show retain the latch ***'y. on the trunk lid. I'm talking about the ones that would be seen below those that retain the catch bracket mounted in the trunk.
So these two? (right below the sweatshirt in question)
Yep...go for it! The striker will come out of the bracket...releasing the trunk lid. You will then need to assess what's going on with the latch portion to see why the rod/key is free-wheeling inside the lock.
The lock part of the latch may now be disconnected, allowing the key to turn easily, but the sweatshirt is still wound in the mechanism and preventing the latch from releasing. just a WAG on my part.
Yep...go for it! The striker will come out of the bracket...releasing the trunk lid. You will then need to assess what's going on with the latch portion to see why the rod/key is free-wheeling inside the lock.
Worked like a charm. Thank you all for helping me problem-solve.
A friend had a whole bunch of extensions that we strung together and ratcheted those two bolts off. Popped right open to reveal the sweatshirt really jammed in there.
Once in, we found that the lock was spinning freely becasue the back end of it broke off under the pressure of turning it with force from within, and that the rod is quite bent.
Is it best to get a matching set of two new locks (so that it will be the same as glovebox) or just buy a replacement for the trunk and have it keyed to the original keys?
Trunk opened to reveal the sweatshirt that caused all the pain.
Back of the trunk lock broke off and rod got bent.
Trunk key turns, but will not unlatch - 72 Cutlass Convertible
