Key lock cylinder
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Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 604
From: New Castle De
Key lock cylinder
The drivers door on my 84 Delta 88 will no longer allow the key to go in more than half way. Can a new cylinder be keyed to the old key without the number? Just using the key? I was going to get the cyl number from the glove box lock, but it will not lock, so I can remove it. This is one of my clapped out daily drivers, so I dont wont to leave the door apart while i wait for someone to key a new cyl off the number on the door cyl.
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Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 551
From: elkhart indiana
Yes, you can have a key decoded, a very worn key makes more challenging but it can be done.Ant lock smith can do this for you or there are a few of us on the site that can do this for you.
Send Joe Padavano a message, he is close to you , he should be able to help.
Send Joe Padavano a message, he is close to you , he should be able to help.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 604
From: New Castle De
In the past
I have had this done in the past. Problen is I cant find a locksmith. The "smiths" I have called said they cant do it. The guys that used to do it, are all dead around here Ill contact Joe thanks for the reply
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,567
If the key isn't slap worn out, I can "read" your key from clear side pictures and get you the 6 digit cut code.
The weird part about glove box locks in that time frame is that you only have the last 4 cuts doing anything for you. The first two (up near the hilt) do nothing as there's only 4 wafers in an 84 glovebox lock.
The problem isn't likely with your key. It's with your lock. The lock is likely fugged up and needing repair. If that's the only lock it does it to, the key is fine. If the passenger side or trunk lock doesn't have this issue, then the lock is the problem.
If the new lock is a B key (or universal meaning any key slot will work), then yeah, the guts can be removed from the lock and re-wafered to match your key code. I got a cap nibbler that I can pop the cap off, dig out the guts and re-wafer the lock. I got all the little spare parts like wafters/springs/doors/caps, etc., and also a Curtis GM 6-cut key cutting tool, and a bunch of GM keys.
I've found the local locksmiths, while competent in locks, don't GAF about the old iron keys and locks anymore. They are very resistant to get involved. A couple haven't even ever worked on them. That's why I do my own now. I don't need them. I've done several.
The weird part about glove box locks in that time frame is that you only have the last 4 cuts doing anything for you. The first two (up near the hilt) do nothing as there's only 4 wafers in an 84 glovebox lock.
The problem isn't likely with your key. It's with your lock. The lock is likely fugged up and needing repair. If that's the only lock it does it to, the key is fine. If the passenger side or trunk lock doesn't have this issue, then the lock is the problem.
If the new lock is a B key (or universal meaning any key slot will work), then yeah, the guts can be removed from the lock and re-wafered to match your key code. I got a cap nibbler that I can pop the cap off, dig out the guts and re-wafer the lock. I got all the little spare parts like wafters/springs/doors/caps, etc., and also a Curtis GM 6-cut key cutting tool, and a bunch of GM keys.
I've found the local locksmiths, while competent in locks, don't GAF about the old iron keys and locks anymore. They are very resistant to get involved. A couple haven't even ever worked on them. That's why I do my own now. I don't need them. I've done several.
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Feb 12, 2014 11:47 AM
