Door Locks - No Code Stamping?
Door Locks - No Code Stamping?
I wanted to find & write down the key codes for my '71 VC; I found the codes for the ignition cylinder and the glove box but the door lock cylinders are not stamped. I had read that service replacement locks are not stamped but both door locks look original. The tailgate key switch was replaced before I got the car so it has a separate key, but that's a different story. I've had 4 '68 GM cars in the past and all had the codes stamped on the door locks. Are mine indeed service replacements or did GM stop stamping the codes?
As an aside, Is it possible to remove the ignition lock without a key?
As an aside, Is it possible to remove the ignition lock without a key?
so I bought a car without any keys, but the door lock cylinders were still in the doors
I contacted a local locksmith who informed me the door lock cylinder and the ignition key were the same 69 Pontiac, I removed the door lock and took them to the locksmith, he disassembled the door lock cylinder and was able to cut a replacement key, and he was right, the door cylinder key fits the ignition and works fine
Not sure about the ignition lock question
I contacted a local locksmith who informed me the door lock cylinder and the ignition key were the same 69 Pontiac, I removed the door lock and took them to the locksmith, he disassembled the door lock cylinder and was able to cut a replacement key, and he was right, the door cylinder key fits the ignition and works fine
Not sure about the ignition lock question
No help on door code stamping, you need key to pull ignition lock out, believe you turn key to run position, insert paper clip into hole and continue to rotate key and cylinder will come out. Some ignition locks have two holes, just have to try each one.
If the locks are original, the doors and ignition use the same key and code. It is easy to remove the ignition lock cylinder without the key. This website illustrates the process. That site actually covers repair of a wobbly tilt column, but the disassembly process is the same. Just stop at the step where you remove the lock cylinder. Also note that the steps on that website tell you to completely remove the turn signal switch. Turns out that you don't need to go through that trouble. There's enough slack in the wire that you can just unbolt the switch and pull it up out of the way without messing with the connector and wires on the column.
Thanks for the replies, I was able to get out both the ignition and glove box locks before I made the original post. I guess I didn't clarify that.
My main question is - should the door locks be stamped with the code ? Like I mentioned above, both are not and look to be original to the car, and, all of my '68 GM cars had the code stamped on the door lock cylinders. Joe, I know you do key & lock work, would appreciate your comments. Thanks!
My main question is - should the door locks be stamped with the code ? Like I mentioned above, both are not and look to be original to the car, and, all of my '68 GM cars had the code stamped on the door lock cylinders. Joe, I know you do key & lock work, would appreciate your comments. Thanks!
Thanks for the replies, I was able to get out both the ignition and glove box locks before I made the original post. I guess I didn't clarify that.
My main question is - should the door locks be stamped with the code ? Like I mentioned above, both are not and look to be original to the car, and, all of my '68 GM cars had the code stamped on the door lock cylinders. Joe, I know you do key & lock work, would appreciate your comments. Thanks!
My main question is - should the door locks be stamped with the code ? Like I mentioned above, both are not and look to be original to the car, and, all of my '68 GM cars had the code stamped on the door lock cylinders. Joe, I know you do key & lock work, would appreciate your comments. Thanks!
I too had door lock and ignition lock problems when my '70 442 arrived. The door locks were frozen, inoperable, and the ignition key didn't work well because the key was so worn. The locksmith I took the locks to (ignition lock was not removed from the car) was able to obtain the correct key codes from an online source, as he described it (the cylinders locks were not marked).
The door lock cylinders were disassembled, cleaned and lubricated and now work fine, as does the ignition lock. New keys were cut from code and not from the worn keys I brought in and that makes a world of difference in the way the locks function.
Another tip my locksmith gave me is to never introduce a graphite lubricate into either the trunk, door, glove, or ignition locks as over time the lubricate evaporates leaving the hardened graphite inside the locks and that contributes to problems down the road.
The door lock cylinders were disassembled, cleaned and lubricated and now work fine, as does the ignition lock. New keys were cut from code and not from the worn keys I brought in and that makes a world of difference in the way the locks function.
Another tip my locksmith gave me is to never introduce a graphite lubricate into either the trunk, door, glove, or ignition locks as over time the lubricate evaporates leaving the hardened graphite inside the locks and that contributes to problems down the road.
GM made a big mistake when they changed the key/lock system.
In the mid-60s one key worked the doors and the ignition. The other key locked the trunk and the glovebox. This is the way it should be.
Later, GM screwed-up this arrangement, so that you had an ignition key, and a door/trunk/glovebox key. This is a disaster. You'd have to give the valet or service personnel both keys in order for them to unlock the doors and start the engine, which also is giving them access to the trunk and the glovebox. Before, you gave them the door/ignition key, but not the trunk/glovebox key, so your trunk/glovebox was still "secure".
In the mid-60s one key worked the doors and the ignition. The other key locked the trunk and the glovebox. This is the way it should be.
Later, GM screwed-up this arrangement, so that you had an ignition key, and a door/trunk/glovebox key. This is a disaster. You'd have to give the valet or service personnel both keys in order for them to unlock the doors and start the engine, which also is giving them access to the trunk and the glovebox. Before, you gave them the door/ignition key, but not the trunk/glovebox key, so your trunk/glovebox was still "secure".
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