Went out to unlock the trunk and found it wasn't working again. I noticed this time that the lock was broke so I got a replacement lock. I'm finding that whether I use the original lever or the new straighter lever the lock seems to be binding when I try to unlock it. I'm not sure what to do.
I did find out that if you own a convertible Cutlass and you find that the trunk lock is broke there is an easier way to release the lock than removing the latch bolts with extensions on extensions, well you get the point. Take a broom handle
and securely tape a large slotted screwdriver and a small flashlight to the same end of the handle. Turn the light on, stick the handle in the trunk, find the back of the trunk lock latch, you can see the slotted hole if you squint real hard. Turn the screwdriver left and if latch is working the trunk will open.
If anyone can chime in with some help I will greatly appreciate it. I hope I was able to contribute a little bit this time

 

On one of my former W-31's the trunk lock would (how can I put this) it wasn't "binding up" it simply would stop turning its complete revolution- until I backed off on the key and turned again (over and over and over and over again) until finally it made its complete revolution and popped the trunk.....another words I had to keep turning (the key) back and forth a good 4-7-8 two dozen times until it popped the trunk until one day.................

Ohh that one day...............- it just completely would not turn its full travel and I was locked out of the trunk.... for good.

Yes- I had to remove the rear bench seat- and the upper seat back- reach into the trunk with 9 extensions and remove the two bolts holding the striker inside the trunk until it finally popped back open..... a major PAIN in the "axx" to say the least.

I (after this happened immediately removed the rocket emblem - lock cover - and removed the lock cylinder and (rod) going into the latch assembly.

I took the lock cylinder to the lock smith where (for free) he said these old cars used to do this where you had to wiggle the key back-and forth until the trunk popped open was due to some thing in the lock cylder he peined over after mounting it in a vice....

I thought it was worn lock cyl springs but there is something that (shifts out of place) allowing each tumbler to work itself out of alignment with the indentations on the key.....

in short it was not a worn out lock cylinder but something inside the lock cyl that allows each spring loaded detent to shift or something- (he fixed it permanently by simply peining (sp?) over something on the end of the lock cylinder to help keep each spring loaded indentent to stop them from walking over out of alignment with the keys stamped indentations.

I don't know is that's your problem but that what occurred to a other wise untouched original lock cylinder....again I had to work the key back and forth 8-15- two dozen times at least before that procedure stoped completely and then I had to play hell removing the back seat- out to release the lock striker to open the trunk after being told I would have had to "drill out" (like that's gonna happen) the lock cylinder to gain entry and replace the cylinder .

something in the back of the cylinder once again has to be peined over to keep the tumblers from falling out of alignment.... I don't know how to be more descript in my story- if that's whats occurring with your car or not.

I do know that if the lock cylinder to interior trunk latch "rod" is bent in any way- that has to be corrected and or replaced. Mine was in perfect shape- (the rod) but it was something in the lock cylinder that alloed each tumbler to fall out of alignment.

The lock smith new exactly what to do (to that lock cylinder) and he did not charge me a dime to pein over what he had to do so that never happens again.....

I learned the hard way- and my new car is exhibiting signs of improper key function....Im pulling the lock cylinder first chance I get- and making a bee line back to the same lock smith who fixed my 2nd W-31's lock cyl.

Hope this info was helpful, albeit long winded

 

Thanks for the insight, Ben. This is happening to both the old and new lock. It actually broke the old lock where the lever sits. Odd thing about it is, there is no binding on the new lock and lever when it's not in the deck lid. Latch releases smoothly too. Again, all is well until the lock cylinder is installed and the clip is preventing any lock body movement. Then when I go to unlock the trunk the key stops just short before getting the latch to release. I do lock and key work on commercial buildings and I know a couple of great locksmiths. I asked one about this issue yesterday and he is uncertain as to whats causing this. What you are saying is the lock pins are moving around, but wouldn't this binding action happen if the lock was being exercised on a bench too? Once again, I appreciate your help.

James

 

My ma-in-law's '67 Impala convertible had an issue with the trunk lock binding. I removed and disassembled the lock and saw the inner key cylinder was binding in the - uh, whatever you call it - outer part. I used sandpaper to smooth the mating surfaces and it worked smoothly UNTIL it was installed back in the deck lid, then it started binding again. I repeated the disassembly/sanding operation and got it working smoothly. It was an aftermarket lock assembly from one of the resto houses and it appeared that the parts weren't made very well.

 

It would seem the lock cylinder should be removed and disassembled......but have the lock smith inspect and pein over- (whatever it is that keeps the tumblers from shifting)

He took my lock cylinder in the back of his store (I seen him lock it into a vice) and using a tool and hammer peined over something in the cylinder so it would not shift over...

I can not make a determination if that's your problem, but it worked in my case.....

It was never an issue of binding- just it would not turn all the way over unless it was fiddled with back and forth 7-65 times lol (no pun intended)

Until the day it simply did not turn over its complete revolution. He (the lock smith) peined something over at the end of the cylinder and handed it back too me to re-install.

Whatever he did- fixed it permanently. He said it was a common problem and easily fixed as he did.

I hope that solves your issue if that is the case with yours.

{I re-read your reply above} Yes it seemd as if the key would not turn its FULL revolution within the cylinder, until back and forth back and forth until it popped the trunk....... {Until that dreaded day that process stoped and it would not pop the trunk at all....} The lock smith peined something over inside the cylinder and it fixed it permanently for me.

 

I installed the keyless trunk release yesterday. Since installing the remote trunk release the lock cylinder even opens easier with the key now.

 

My trunk lock will not open the trunk the key turns freely in the lock past the 3 O'clock position and nothing happens. So do I have to remove the back seat to get into the trunk to unlock it or is there any other way?

 

If you have tried applying pressure on the deck lid while turning the key and nothing else you've tried is working I think that pulling the seat out is the least destructive way to open the trunk.