Switching from manual to power windows
December 17th, 2014, 04:16 AM
#1
Rodney
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Location: Houston, TX
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Switching from manual to power windows
I planning to remove the quarter windows and door windows from my 72 cutlass convertible to install power window regulators. Can the regulator and glass be removed and installed together as a unit or do I need to remove the glass first prior to removing the regulator assembly and vise-versa on installation?
December 18th, 2014, 03:05 AM
#2
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Remove the glass first, then the regulator with the motor attached. Do not remove motor because there is a counter balance spring that will fold the regulator and chop off some of your needed parts i.e. fingers. If you have a friend that is an electrician, you will need his set of Greenlee punches to make some pretty neat holes in the door and cowl for the harness. The dimples in the sheet metal tell you where to place the holes. Try that...
December 20th, 2014, 06:23 PM
#3
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Location: Plano, TX
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Avoid the repro kits, as they are mostly crap. They strip easily and the rears need major mods to fit. Apparently chevelles are different in the rear and that is what most of the kits are for.
Get some good used Olds regs, restore them and use them, along with a used harness.
December 21st, 2014, 12:35 PM
#4
Rodney
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Location: Houston, TX
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Rob:
I bought some used regulators, and working motors & switches last year after reading a CO thread (yours I think) about an aftermarket kit wearing out in less than a year. I just couldn't tell from the Fisher Body book if the glass and regulator can be r&r'd as a unit or if this must be done in 2 steps. I'm gearing up to sand blast the body tub of my 442 convertible project and will need to remove the glass and regulators before hand. I want to add power door locks as well. I'm considering an aftermarket kit for this. Do you have any experience with the newer door actuators? They look to be considerably smaller (and lighter) than the OEM solenoids. Thanks!
Rodney
I bought some used regulators, and working motors & switches last year after reading a CO thread (yours I think) about an aftermarket kit wearing out in less than a year. I just couldn't tell from the Fisher Body book if the glass and regulator can be r&r'd as a unit or if this must be done in 2 steps. I'm gearing up to sand blast the body tub of my 442 convertible project and will need to remove the glass and regulators before hand. I want to add power door locks as well. I'm considering an aftermarket kit for this. Do you have any experience with the newer door actuators? They look to be considerably smaller (and lighter) than the OEM solenoids. Thanks!
Rodney
December 21st, 2014, 12:49 PM
#5
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Rod I thought about doing the same but figured it would just be too complicated for me for a car that generallywill have the windows and top down 98% of the time lol...
I am surpirsed those kits wear out so fast, saw an install on overhauling where the window crank is actually theswitch looked cool.
I am surpirsed those kits wear out so fast, saw an install on overhauling where the window crank is actually theswitch looked cool.
December 21st, 2014, 03:32 PM
#6
Rodney
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Houston, TX
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Eddie:
I plan to completely re-wire the car, so adding the power window & door options is "no-biggie". In addition, I plan to add a remote access/alarm system, heated seats, a few additional 12v outlets, and Hi-output head lights which will require a lot of extra wiring. This will be my everyday driver so a few creature comforts will be necessary when I switch over from driving my Toyota 4Runner - which has power everything.
I plan to completely re-wire the car, so adding the power window & door options is "no-biggie". In addition, I plan to add a remote access/alarm system, heated seats, a few additional 12v outlets, and Hi-output head lights which will require a lot of extra wiring. This will be my everyday driver so a few creature comforts will be necessary when I switch over from driving my Toyota 4Runner - which has power everything.
December 21st, 2014, 04:48 PM
#7
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Location: South River, New Jersey
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Rod I hear you, make sure you up the altenator so you get enough juice for all them gadgets, my daily driver is a ford excursion
maybe I should find another olds add a nasty 455 some stiff gears, it would be better on gas then the v10 in the ford lol...
maybe I should find another olds add a nasty 455 some stiff gears, it would be better on gas then the v10 in the ford lol...
December 21st, 2014, 05:35 PM
#8
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Location: Plano, TX
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Rob:
I bought some used regulators, and working motors & switches last year after reading a CO thread (yours I think) about an aftermarket kit wearing out in less than a year. I just couldn't tell from the Fisher Body book if the glass and regulator can be r&r'd as a unit or if this must be done in 2 steps. I'm gearing up to sand blast the body tub of my 442 convertible project and will need to remove the glass and regulators before hand. I want to add power door locks as well. I'm considering an aftermarket kit for this. Do you have any experience with the newer door actuators? They look to be considerably smaller (and lighter) than the OEM solenoids. Thanks!
Rodney
I bought some used regulators, and working motors & switches last year after reading a CO thread (yours I think) about an aftermarket kit wearing out in less than a year. I just couldn't tell from the Fisher Body book if the glass and regulator can be r&r'd as a unit or if this must be done in 2 steps. I'm gearing up to sand blast the body tub of my 442 convertible project and will need to remove the glass and regulators before hand. I want to add power door locks as well. I'm considering an aftermarket kit for this. Do you have any experience with the newer door actuators? They look to be considerably smaller (and lighter) than the OEM solenoids. Thanks!
Rodney
The window guides may need recovering with the fuzzy velcro stuff.
I installed factory door lock solenoids. However the modern ones could probably be used, just connect them to the place where the factory ones connect. You will need to fab some brackets and linkage.
Rod I thought about doing the same but figured it would just be too complicated for me for a car that generallywill have the windows and top down 98% of the time lol...
I am surpirsed those kits wear out so fast, saw an install on overhauling where the window crank is actually theswitch looked cool.
I am surpirsed those kits wear out so fast, saw an install on overhauling where the window crank is actually theswitch looked cool.
The new ones are made of chinesium and I bet that stuff cannot be heat-treated without melting down again...
Therefore the gears strip after 20 runs or so.I saw those where the crank was the switch. However i would be afraid someone would put some muscle to the crank (thinking it was manual) and break it.
I put in seat heaters as well when the seats were recovered. Great addition for winter drives. I also added a 12V socket in the glovebox.
If you are still running non-halogen headlights, go get a set of halogens. Direct replacement and they will work as good (or even better than) the headlights on an average new car. Just make sure you aim them right (use a dark street, parking lot, or alley where there is no traffic).
Mine are Wagners and they are perfect for me.
December 21st, 2014, 05:48 PM
#9
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Location: South River, New Jersey
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Rob did you upgrade your altenator? I get it about the power goodies , my old 72 buick skylark I built for my missus had power everything, it was nice , maybe if I findall theoriginal bits before I do the interior, if not well roll ups it is...
December 22nd, 2014, 02:47 PM
#10
Rodney
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Location: Houston, TX
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Rob:
After reading your thread about the Chinesium regulator parts going bad, I decided to go OEM and I bought some used power regulators on feeBay for $40. Then I lucked into some good used motors 2 days later for another $90. All in with the switches I'm at $160 and, unlike the aftermarket kits, I know it will fit and will work. I had planned from the beginning to rewire the entire car, no sense risking 40-year old wires. I think I'll use some of the newer door lock actuators for the power locks. They look to be much lighter than the OEM parts and might be easier connect to an alarm system. As far as headlights go, I will probably install some modern Hella or Cibe halogen headlights and rewire them using relays so I'm not pulling all those amps thru the 40-year old headlight switch.
After reading your thread about the Chinesium regulator parts going bad, I decided to go OEM and I bought some used power regulators on feeBay for $40. Then I lucked into some good used motors 2 days later for another $90. All in with the switches I'm at $160 and, unlike the aftermarket kits, I know it will fit and will work. I had planned from the beginning to rewire the entire car, no sense risking 40-year old wires. I think I'll use some of the newer door lock actuators for the power locks. They look to be much lighter than the OEM parts and might be easier connect to an alarm system. As far as headlights go, I will probably install some modern Hella or Cibe halogen headlights and rewire them using relays so I'm not pulling all those amps thru the 40-year old headlight switch.
Last edited by cdrod; December 22nd, 2014 at 02:59 PM.
December 22nd, 2014, 05:40 PM
#11
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Location: Plano, TX
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No, she still has her 63A unit. Windows and locks are so intermittantly used, they do not matter. The seat heaters draw 8A for the pair. I have never had to run the heater on high, so I always had enough juice (per the voltmeter). Now if I had a rear defroster, a larger alt would be a good idea.
Sounds like you got a good deal on the stuff. I wasted way too much on the crap I got.
The factory solenoids worked with my alarm system as they had hefty onboard relays to run them. They are current hogs but strong as can be. Just make sure you use 10 gauge wire with them.
Before doing all the headlight work I would at least try halogen sealed beams to see how you like them - they work with existing wiring and work great. I was pleasantly surprised.
Rob:
After reading your thread about the Chinesium regulator parts going bad, I decided to go OEM and I bought some used power regulators on feeBay for $40. Then I lucked into some good used motors 2 days later for another $90. All in with the switches I'm at $160 and, unlike the aftermarket kits, I know it will fit and will work. I had planned from the beginning to rewire the entire car, no sense risking 40-year old wires. I think I'll use some of the newer door lock actuators for the power locks. They look to be much lighter than the OEM parts and might be easier connect to an alarm system. As far as headlights go, I will probably install some modern Hella or Cibe halogen headlights and rewire them using relays so I'm not pulling all those amps thru the 40-year old headlight switch.
After reading your thread about the Chinesium regulator parts going bad, I decided to go OEM and I bought some used power regulators on feeBay for $40. Then I lucked into some good used motors 2 days later for another $90. All in with the switches I'm at $160 and, unlike the aftermarket kits, I know it will fit and will work. I had planned from the beginning to rewire the entire car, no sense risking 40-year old wires. I think I'll use some of the newer door lock actuators for the power locks. They look to be much lighter than the OEM parts and might be easier connect to an alarm system. As far as headlights go, I will probably install some modern Hella or Cibe halogen headlights and rewire them using relays so I'm not pulling all those amps thru the 40-year old headlight switch.
The factory solenoids worked with my alarm system as they had hefty onboard relays to run them. They are current hogs but strong as can be. Just make sure you use 10 gauge wire with them.
Before doing all the headlight work I would at least try halogen sealed beams to see how you like them - they work with existing wiring and work great. I was pleasantly surprised.
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