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Converting power to manual windows

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Old Jan 28, 2013 | 08:33 PM
  #1  
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Converting power to manual windows

I have a 1984 cutlass with nonfunctioning windows, the wires are all ripped torn and tattered. Could I get some help or maybe a guide that would help with the conversion? All info is appreciated
Old Jan 28, 2013 | 08:50 PM
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Just go to the junkyard, buy a set of regulators from any GM car of the same body style, unbolt the power regulators, and install the manual ones.
There may be some different holes (not sure about your year), but if so, the correct locations should be dimpled.

You will need to either drill new holes in your door panels for the handles, or get new non-power door panels.

Or you could just fix the power windows you've got.

- Eric
Old Jan 29, 2013 | 03:56 AM
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You could probably find the wiring and any other parts you need to fix them in a junkyard and it would be easier than doing a conversion. I imagine the Buick and Pontiac had the same parts so they should be easy to find.
Old Jan 29, 2013 | 11:58 AM
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ok thanks guys. i was thinking of the conversion as a cheap and easy fix to the wiring problem, but would it be more efficient to just go the whole rewiring the window system rather than converting?
Old Jan 29, 2013 | 12:06 PM
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Depending apon your patience with wiring, it'd be much easier and keep the car original.
Old Jan 29, 2013 | 12:14 PM
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hm sounds good. i have someone to help me with the wiring but says he need the color coded wiring diagram, which is the only problem with that. also* i actually just bought the car at a really good price with the window stuck down, is there any way to get it back in its up position with my wiring shot?
Old Jan 29, 2013 | 03:01 PM
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X-tra battery with jumper wires, if the motor is good.
3 wires from the motor - up, down and ground.
Old Jan 29, 2013 | 05:55 PM
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The 84 circuit is pretty simple - easy to repair the harness. I assumed you have a 2-door.



Originally Posted by Rickman48
X-tra battery with jumper wires, if the motor is good.
3 wires from the motor - up, down and ground.
The 84 uses polarity reversal, so only 2 wires go to the motors.
I guess cost reduction from less wire needed.
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 08:25 AM
  #9  
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Ok thanks so much everyone, one last question. How could I get my window in its upright position if my motor isn't good, as I can't go grab one right now.
Old Feb 2, 2013 | 07:26 PM
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Find the wire connector at the window motor and jumper across with a 12 volt power source. you need to ground the negative side, positive side to the motor. if it don't move try the other wire in the connector.

Gene
Old Feb 2, 2013 | 07:31 PM
  #11  
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According to the diagram that Rob posted immediately above the OP's question, Brown to (-), Blue to (+) will make it go up.

- Eric
Old Feb 3, 2013 | 06:42 AM
  #12  
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If the motor is bad, you're sunk.
Try pulling up in the window as you put power to the motor. Many motor failures are due to old grease that has solidified either in the motor itself or in the window mech.
Old Feb 3, 2013 | 08:01 AM
  #13  
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If the motor brushes are bad or going, sometimes jarring the motor *while power is applied* will get another run out of it- slam the door shut, or tap it with a stick, hammer, etc.

Gently- you don't want to break or dislodge the permanent magnet inside.
Old Feb 5, 2013 | 10:23 AM
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No dice! Hooked it up to a motorcycle battery I had and it didn't work when hitting the switch and pushing/pulling it up. So it looks like ill be headed to the junkyard sometime soon. Thanks for all the help.
Old Feb 5, 2013 | 05:22 PM
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Forget the switch, did you jumper across the wires from the window motor ?
If the motor don't move then that should be it.
If it does move, you back track from there.
Have you check all the connections and the fuses?

Gene
Old Feb 5, 2013 | 07:39 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 64Rocket
Forget the switch, did you jumper across the wires from the window motor ?
If the motor don't move then that should be it.
If it does move, you back track from there.
Have you check all the connections and the fuses?

Gene
id like to think i did but im not too sure. i separtated all the door lock from the window wires and got the blue and brown and connected them to the positive and negitive and hit the switch while jarring the window. would jumping it straight from the motor be any different? and yes i did check all the fuses theyre all good.*
Old Feb 6, 2013 | 04:50 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 64Rocket
Forget the switch, did you jumper across the wires from the window motor ?
If the motor don't move then that should be it.
If it does move, you back track from there.
Have you check all the connections and the fuses?

Gene
gave it a send go and it worked! went up like a charm, thank you so much!
Old Feb 6, 2013 | 07:17 PM
  #18  
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Now you can work on finding the bad connections and getting the whole thing running again .

- Eric
Old Feb 6, 2013 | 08:01 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by mfsean
gave it a send go and it worked! Went up like a charm, thank you so much!
yay!!
Old Feb 8, 2013 | 09:35 PM
  #20  
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Oh yeah I'm all up and running! Just picked it up from the shop had to get a tail pipe put on and the carb adjusted to pass smog so all that's needed is my registration! It's been on non op since 2011, I was told it'd be about 220 to register, is that about right?
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