All,

Thanks to Eric (Jensenracing) I finally got my hands on a nice power trunk setup. It has everything i need, the pigtail connectors, wiring, trunk button (it's for a 70 but i really like the chrome so i'm going to install it.

Stay tuned for cleanup, and some little extras from yours truly.

-Tony

Here is what the connector set looks like.



The Power trunk button is almost perfect, i might just look at it... Or keep it for the 70' 4-4-2 project i've been dreaming of



This is what it looks like originally.



AND NOW, after an hour at the grinding/sanding wheel. Should i shoot it with aluminum paint? Or just clear coat??

 

you should be ok with clear since its not a high heat area, I tend to mist most of those parts with a metallic steel paint, I think "cast" is the color it protects it and helps to keep it clean.

 

What type of clear do you use? Just off the shelf automotive clear?

 

That will do it nicely Tony. One thing you should be aware of - even a light coating of clear will tend to make the metal look 'slightly' darker. Oh, when you get the clear? There's no ball in the can so don't be worried that it doesn't rattle!

Nice job on the clean up. The glove box button is correct for a 70, but not for 72. I wouldn't worry about that though. I can't help but wonder how that would have cleaned up with glass beads....

 

As soon as I buy a house, first two things that are going innate 4 post car lift and sandblasting cabinet.

Need a house first though...

 

Looked at the Dorval area real estate. Wow, what a range of prices. Still, something that an aspiring engineer like yourself could turn into a mancave or beer retreat....watch out though! Wimmen can sniff out a guy with a house like rats sniff out cheese...only difference is rats don't keep the cheese....

 

Has not been an issue here. I must have a repeller somewhere...

 

these were on the lid when the lid was painted. all of them i have seen were painted or at least had over spray of body color. My 72 W-30 i had with under 20,000 miles still had some masking tape on the electrical connector from the factory.

not that it counts for anything but your setup was born on a Reef Turquoise 70 W-30.

 

I was wondering about the color of these... Makes me want to take mine out and paint it body color!

 

W-30?! Maybe it'll add a couple horsepower!

 

Gee, maybe I should send you some W30 emblems to go with that...

 

That would be hilarious,

On my fender...

CUTLASS 'S'
W-30

That'll sure confuse some people...

Hey, anyone have any idea how to get the old lock/assembly out? do i need to remove the trunk lock to get it out?

I'd rather do it right before i remove the 3 bolts that hold the current assembly in there...

 

Tony,
If you check out the Fisher manual on Page 8-3 it shows/tells the procedure. Yes, one of the ULTRA RARE 1 of 0 Cutlass S 350 W30 cars with a single exhaust. Still, if you decide to drop a 455 in there, I've got a set of new W30 emblems. Was going to use it on my car if I ever decided to clone it, but have moved beyond that point now. I don't have any emblems on my car now (except for the trunk) so I could prolly get away with it unless someone checked the VIN or under the hood.....

 

Great! Checked the manual, worked out great. Removed that retainer, Slid out the lock cylinder, and out came the unit.

One hour installation for Carpet and seat removal, wiring, and then affixing the wiring where it needed.

Havnt drilled the 0.75'' hole yet for the button, but i mocked everything up and it works great!

Pictures to come.

 

So if I read that electrical right, the lead to the power trunk switch is always hot and pressing the button connects the circuit regardless of whether the key is in or not?

 

Exactly!

I tested the orange lead wire when the car was off, it was Hot with 12.5 Volts. So whenever i press the power trunk button, BAM, the trunk opens.

Quite clever i must admit.