hamm36

What is the Olds community standard on breaking in a 455?
How many quarts of oil? 5, or more? stock oil pan.
Cam additive? Yes?
How long to run the break in? 15, or 30 minutes?
How many RPMs at the break in? 2500, or 3000
How many miles before oil change 500?
What is the max RPM range for a 455?

Redog

I think the stock pan on a 455 is 4 quarts and 1 quart for the oil filter, so yes that's 5 quarts, unless you use a Toro oil pan, those pans are 5 quarts plus 1 for the filter.

I would let it run then drive it, take it easy on the RPMs for the first 500 miles or so. Maybe no more than 3000 if possible.

You can change the oil after 500 miles then do every 3000, but I don't think you had to do it. You may be able to go full syn oil after 5000 miles or so, check with your rebuild guy.

The red line wouldn't be much more than 5200

hamm36

Only post I could fine for breaking in a motor was from a cheby board. It recommend 7 quarts of oil for the break in. I am sure this is to make sure the sump does not go dry and the extended time and RPMs.
That is why my earlier question might have looked silly. I could not find anything on this site. So I asked the questions that no one else had. I really do not understand the hard break in, but the easy first 500 miles. I was always told drive it like you plan too. Your thoughts?
My buddy under the shad tree did it last time, this time I did most of it alone. It should last this time. Thanks

Redog

Yeah I would easy for the first 500 miles and try not to maintain one speed too long, i.e don't use cruise control

Just like buying a new car

Olds64

I thought you were supposed to run an engine at constant speed when breaking it in? Doesn't running at a constant speed on the highway cause less stress than stop and go city traffic?

Oldsmaniac

I would ask my engine builder for a recommendation. Some cams are coated with lube when new and extra is usually put on when installing. Assembly lube was probably used on bearings. I add proper amount of oil, nothing extra and no oil additives, pre-lube the engine with a drill on oil pump rod. Then install distributer #1 TDC compression stroke with rotor pointing to #1 plug wire. Fill carb with gas. Fire the engine, you may need to adjust the distributor/timing to get it to do so. As soon as it fires I try and run it at 2000 to 2200 RPM for at least 15 minutes watching temperature to be sure it does not overheat. You should also get a rough idea of where ignition timing is during break-in with a timing light. This is breakin for a newly rebuilt engine. It is important that the engine does not idle for the first 15 minutes for proper oil delivery to all components and that the cam is broken in properly. After the initial break-in you can set timing and idle.

hamm36

The engine builder is a Pro no doughs about that. Although he stated zinc additive, and 3000 RPMs for 30 minutes. Man, I just could not make my self do it, I got it to 2500 for 15 minutes with the cam additive. If it is not broken-it is broken in now. I lubed the lifter myself on the install. He did the machine work, lower end and bolted on the heads for me. I did the rest.
I like the idea of the oil rod on a drill, but not feasible. If I remember right from three months ago, the oil pump rod is held in by a clip, and can not be removed even with the distributor out. The oil pump has to come of to remove it.

Oldsmaniac

Oil pump rod goes into bottom of distributer...with the dist out you can put a 6point 5/16 socket on an extention, pin it to be sure it stays on, and spin it counterclockwise in a drill. This pre-lubes the engine.

hamm36

Super Idea. I was thing with the oil rod in the drill then sticking it down in there. Just my way of thinking = wrong. I should have asked this question months ago about breaking it in. I have herd of people using old distributor without the cam gear to prime, but I did not have one. Best of luck to anyone else getting ready to fire it up for the first time.

Do you know the book color code for the 70 Rallye 350 ?
Sebring Yellow is the color my car was originally and the color it is going back too.

Toro68

ToronaDO MOTORS ARE 6 QURATS (425 AND 455)

88 coupe

If using HEI, ignore the following. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...html#post33181


17" of 5/16" hex stock, in a 3/8" drill chuck will do the same job, with no chance of losing anything.

Run it, at max speed, until you see oil on all rockers.

Norm

mugzilla

Accelerate to seat compression ring and decelerate in gear to seat oil rings ...

442scotty

there is a oil pump shaft available that doesnt use that little clip...my shaft got jammed in the the distributor gear and when I pulled it out the shaft came with it...clip fell into the pan (got lucky)...I bought one that has a collar built in so you can remove it from the top

z11375ss

I just broke in a small block and have been doing it this way for years whether it is right or not it has worked for me with race engines as well as daily drivers. I now have a 7 quart pan on my 350, After the initial cam break in in which the motor is run at 2200 to 2500 to make the lifters find their "groove" and establish that and keep them there forever, I change the oil. After all timing is set properly and the car is being driven, 50 miles is the next oil change for me. Then 500. After that I don't drive the cars enough to have the mileage thing come into play, it's always the time and the breakdown of the viscocity of the oil. And don't let the oil companies BS you about having to change your oil at 3000. My original Vette owner's manual says 6000. And that's on an LT1, a high perf motor. I think the general idea is not to stress the parts initially, but when they are good to go and you feel safe in rippin' it, rip it. Keeping the motor properly lubed is the best insurance against engine failure by far IMO.

hamm36

I replied on another post "hold down bolt" that I did not mean to get side tracked. I am putting this here to help others before they do what I did.
timing can be set 8 to 12 BTDC, or higher I presume.
I went with 10 because that is the highest my marker shows on point - recommended by Dan.

Idle at 850 - recommend by Norm
Disconnect vacuum advance and cap at Carb.
move distributor to move mark to 10 BTDC. Clockwise advance, counter clock to retard.
Tighten down hold down bolt at distributor.
Recheck with timing light.
Put vacuum advance back on.
Adjust idle at Carb back to 850.

Motor is starting first bump.
It does not have any hesitation on accelerator.

I would try Norm's idea of putting it in drive and setting the idle at 600, but I had to pull strings today just to get a friend from work to come by to help bleed the brakes. But I think now there is always the emergency brake. ( I might be that crazy.) I cannot drive car at this time to finish the break-in (500 miles), awaiting new exhaust and paint. Finders and hood are at the paint shop, and no interior, or glass in the car at all. I will be in touch when it is street-able.

88 coupe

I should have included the E-brake, in that post.

Norm

hamm36

Norm and Dan,

What do you think about these specs. I forgot I had a scan of this. I hope ya'll can see it.

88 coupe

Cam specs tell me, it will last for a lot of miles, and balancing is part of any quality rebuild.

Norm

citcapp

We have a place in Everett, WA called Harbor Freight which sells wholesale tools. I bought a set of oil pump rods for $19.00 dollars that fit through a alumimum spindle that is held down by the distributor bolt and fastner. and chucks to a drill. the kit includes 4 spindles, 4 oil pump rods with different sizes and configurations for several types and manufactures of engines. I through the box away but I go their all of time. If anyone wants me too I will get the manufactures name and post it so you gus can look it up on the internet.

88 coupe

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/retail_stores.taf

Norm

mugzilla

Pays for itself the first time you use it ...

Nice ...

hamm36

There is a Harbor Freight here as well. I have gotten a few tools and supplies there. I did not think about a prime pump rod.
Motor is broken in now, I even took it out on the road a few times. Kind of a trip with now glass, or finders on the car. I put an old finder on the car for now to hold the radiator support. Carb had to be redone, radiator had to go back to shop. I had it flushed and tested while motor was being redone, and radiator started leaking (man, I am pissed.) it is on the way back to the shop. They also, redid my gas tank. I had to take it off again because they did not paint the outside of it. When the flushed it, they did not paint it, and it started rusting where the cleaner was not washed off. Really tired of people not doing there job I paid them to do. Dang' near politicians.

joe_padavano

I'll be amazed if that set had the right rods for an Olds motor. I just use a long 1/4" drive extension and a 5/16" socket. Be sure to secure the socket on the extension.

citcapp

The kit has the right rods

csstrux

I heard some one say once "drive it like you stole it"

88 coupe

Cost = 50¢

Norm

citcapp

While I agree the 50 cents is a better value. I end up working on a variety of engines because my Kid runs a 327 chev the other has a 350 chev and my Youngest has a Dodge Hemi so this works for me. The Old 57 Olds blows the doors off all of the above. Got to love it

Viper

drive the car around town with a different rpm range for the first thousand miles and change the oil after the first 100 miles and you will be good to go.. variation of rpm is the ticket, no high rpms for the first 1000 miles... thats why around town is good to break in a new engine... keep and eye on engine temps too... olds mechanic viper..

mugzilla

Do not ...

I repeat ...

Do not let the old lady drive it ...

hamm36

I have putted around the neighborhood a little, and gotten into in some. I don't think I am up to 100 mile yet, but I am thinking about some clean oil, with zinc additive just to keep it smooth. It is about to be out of commission again to replace all the moving parts on the front end, and disk brakes to stop this monster before someone jump in front of me with these drums. Then it is off to the color shop. Then I can put the glass, and interior back in.

citcapp

I have always used Shell Rotella SAE 15W-40 oil designed for diesel engines and approved for gas engines as well has all of the additives you need for breaking in an engine. In fact I use it a my oil of choice in all of my engines

1FSTLS1

I need an ignition coil and then am ready to break my 455 in. I have the Shell Rotella in there. My worries are checking timing I dont want to let the motor idle. Hopefully it will run and I can keep the rpm at 2200 with the timing the way it is now then perfect it after it is broke in. Also have to set the fuel pressure. This is my first motor build and I dont want to mess it up lots of time and $$ invested. I have been priming it every 2 weeks or so to keep the oil moving around till I start it.

citcapp

Have you connected the oil pressure guage? Filled the oil filter? check everything twice at least. Good luck

1FSTLS1

yes and yes I will probably check every thing 3 times then sleep on it then check again!

f-85

Hey Citcapp

I like the Rotella 15-40 synthetic. I run it on my cars. But i use rotella 30w for brake in.


BTW i like the post on the 455 engine swap. Im going to help my buddy do the same to a 64 supper 88 next year when he gets me my drag car and we trade.


Josh

citcapp

f-85 good luck on the build

70Post

Shell has dropped the zinc levels quite a bit in Rotella. It's been discussed into oblivion on a number of car web boards so not trying to start a long discussion on oils here... but adding a bottle of Comp Cams, etc break in additive for $13 or so seems like a fairly cheap insurance policy for a how-many-thousands-of-$-fresh-motor these days if you are running a non-roller cam.