455 Build Project
September 2nd, 2008, 08:01 PM
#1
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455 Build Project
I just picked up my new (new to me) 455 big block olds. It came out of a 70 Delta 88. It has E heads. Its going in an 86 Olds Cutlass (G-Body).
I am in the process of planning my build for it. I would like to get 450(or more)HP out of it and 450(or more)TQ.
I have been reading up for months now and since I got the engine, my mind is running 1000 miles per hour on which way to go with the build. I didn't see any build up threads after I searched so I guess I will start it.
My goal is 450HP/TQ or more. I really want to get more HP and TQ but don't know if my budget will allow me.
I would like to get some of your ideas, tips, recommendations and suggestions. I plan on using the car as a street toy for weekend fun.
I want to use the stock heads and run on pump gas.
I am in the process of planning my build for it. I would like to get 450(or more)HP out of it and 450(or more)TQ.
I have been reading up for months now and since I got the engine, my mind is running 1000 miles per hour on which way to go with the build. I didn't see any build up threads after I searched so I guess I will start it.
My goal is 450HP/TQ or more. I really want to get more HP and TQ but don't know if my budget will allow me.
I would like to get some of your ideas, tips, recommendations and suggestions. I plan on using the car as a street toy for weekend fun.
I want to use the stock heads and run on pump gas.
Last edited by Chaney3000; September 2nd, 2008 at 09:23 PM.
September 2nd, 2008, 08:11 PM
#2
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Here are some pics. 
Straight from the trailer we used to pick it up.
102_5650.jpg
Getting ready to put it up for now.
102_5648.jpg
Straight from the trailer we used to pick it up.
102_5650.jpg
Getting ready to put it up for now.
102_5648.jpg
Last edited by Chaney3000; September 2nd, 2008 at 08:13 PM.
September 3rd, 2008, 06:10 AM
#3
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Oh man! 
Sorry buddy. That is a 307. You should just go ahead and send it to me so you don't get all depressed about wasting your money. 
Just kidding. That looks like an awsome engine to do a build on. Good luck. I am almost done with my 455 build. There is alot of good info on our site and knowledgable people.
Sorry buddy. That is a 307. You should just go ahead and send it to me so you don't get all depressed about wasting your money. Just kidding. That looks like an awsome engine to do a build on. Good luck. I am almost done with my 455 build. There is alot of good info on our site and knowledgable people.
September 3rd, 2008, 11:18 AM
#4
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Nice find, congratulations! Make a short trip over to ROP and view their engine build forum, they have more than you could ever want to review. Many are very specific, addressing budget, street/strip, street-ability, etc. Good luck.
September 3rd, 2008, 11:45 AM
#5
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Oh man! Sorry buddy. That is a 307. You should just go ahead and send it to me so you don't get all depressed about wasting your money.
Just kidding. That looks like an awsome engine to do a build on. Good luck. I am almost done with my 455 build. There is alot of good info on our site and knowledgable people.
Sorry buddy. That is a 307. You should just go ahead and send it to me so you don't get all depressed about wasting your money. Just kidding. That looks like an awsome engine to do a build on. Good luck. I am almost done with my 455 build. There is alot of good info on our site and knowledgable people.
Thanks, I will check them out and see what they are discussing. I will keep you guys updated.
September 3rd, 2008, 02:22 PM
#6
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I got the 71 w31 cam from Comp Cams. I rebuilt the C heads with stock valves. I put a high volume oil pump from Melling, and a Moroso 7 qt oil pan on it. I installed the 1.6 roller tip Comp Cam rockers on it. Finally I will install an Edelbrock Performer, and rebuilt Quadrajet. I went for a mild "heavy duty" rebuild.
September 3rd, 2008, 04:55 PM
#7
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I got the 71 w31 cam from Comp Cams. I rebuilt the C heads with stock valves. I put a high volume oil pump from Melling, and a Moroso 7 qt oil pan on it. I installed the 1.6 roller tip Comp Cam rockers on it. Finally I will install an Edelbrock Performer, and rebuilt Quadrajet. I went for a mild "heavy duty" rebuild.
I think I will be doing a mild build myself. I plan on using the stock heads as well since I don't think my budget will allow for any new aluminum heads. I kind of have a list in mind for parts I want to get for the build. I really would like to find a good olds vendor close to Birmingham. I want to get the block, heads and intake worked by a good vendor.
Last edited by Chaney3000; September 4th, 2008 at 09:00 AM.
September 4th, 2008, 09:06 AM
#9
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That should get that B-body moving.
I've been searching and closest good (at least well mentioned) Olds vendor is Dick Miller. He's in Mississippi, about a 4 hour ride from here to his shop.
August 9th, 2011, 06:22 PM
#12
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Hello fellas.
Been a long time since I posted. The project has been on hold for a while (you know stuff happens) but now its back on track.
Got the engine on the stand and tearing it down.
I will be posting up some pics of it as it goes.
Been a long time since I posted. The project has been on hold for a while (you know stuff happens) but now its back on track.
Got the engine on the stand and tearing it down.
I will be posting up some pics of it as it goes.
October 9th, 2011, 06:30 PM
#13
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Updates.
Ready to strip down. Lots to do.
2011-08-14134521.jpg
Without all the accessories
2011-08-28150951.jpg
2011-08-28151035.jpg
Bare block, ready for the machine shop
2011-10-09171708.jpg
2011-10-09171744.jpg
Ready to strip down. Lots to do.
2011-08-14134521.jpg
Without all the accessories
2011-08-28150951.jpg
2011-08-28151035.jpg
Bare block, ready for the machine shop
2011-10-09171708.jpg
2011-10-09171744.jpg
October 10th, 2011, 12:53 PM
#15
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that looks like a 2 bbl. carb and low compression pistons to me... wether or not you plan to use those pistons will have a huge impact on your choice of camshaft! (or it should anyway)...
you likely also have the small valve heads too...
you likely also have the small valve heads too...
October 10th, 2011, 05:55 PM
#17
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Block looks to be in nice shape.
I would suggest you pull the harmonic balancer, timing gears and chain. Punch out the frost plugs too. You'll want new ones. Doing all this stuff yourself will save money and time at the machine shop.
The harmonic balancer will need a pulley puller to take off. That big nut on the front should be fun to remove. I had to use a breaker bar and extension to bust mine loose. Then it just spun off. The sender is probably junk - get another one. The oil fill tube comes out really easy. Use a rubber mallet and gently tap it side to side, then front to back. Once it loosens, you can twist it out basically with your hands.
At least your block came clean. Mine was full of rust and had a split water jacket on the 7 cylinder so it really was a boat anchor in disguise.
I would suggest you pull the harmonic balancer, timing gears and chain. Punch out the frost plugs too. You'll want new ones. Doing all this stuff yourself will save money and time at the machine shop.
The harmonic balancer will need a pulley puller to take off. That big nut on the front should be fun to remove. I had to use a breaker bar and extension to bust mine loose. Then it just spun off. The sender is probably junk - get another one. The oil fill tube comes out really easy. Use a rubber mallet and gently tap it side to side, then front to back. Once it loosens, you can twist it out basically with your hands.
At least your block came clean. Mine was full of rust and had a split water jacket on the 7 cylinder so it really was a boat anchor in disguise.
October 10th, 2011, 06:16 PM
#18
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October 10th, 2011, 06:23 PM
#19
I can get you a good deal on an engine kit if you need one -
I know th owner pretty well.... www.Enginetech.com
I know th owner pretty well.... www.Enginetech.com
October 10th, 2011, 06:25 PM
#20
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yeah, its been a long time coming but hopefully I can get it going
Yeah, it had a 2 bbl on it.
I don't plan on using the 2 bbl setup. I plan on shooting for near 450-500hp
I got the harmonic balancer off already. And I haven't popped out the freeze plugs nor have I tried to get the oil filler out.
Thanks for the tips on getting it off. I will give it a try soon.
Now the difficult part is trying to figure what setup to use for the rebuild. SO many options.
I don't plan on using the 2 bbl setup. I plan on shooting for near 450-500hp
Block looks to be in nice shape.
I would suggest you pull the harmonic balancer, timing gears and chain. Punch out the frost plugs too. You'll want new ones. Doing all this stuff yourself will save money and time at the machine shop.
The harmonic balancer will need a pulley puller to take off. That big nut on the front should be fun to remove. I had to use a breaker bar and extension to bust mine loose. Then it just spun off. The sender is probably junk - get another one. The oil fill tube comes out really easy. Use a rubber mallet and gently tap it side to side, then front to back. Once it loosens, you can twist it out basically with your hands.
At least your block came clean. Mine was full of rust and had a split water jacket on the 7 cylinder so it really was a boat anchor in disguise.
I would suggest you pull the harmonic balancer, timing gears and chain. Punch out the frost plugs too. You'll want new ones. Doing all this stuff yourself will save money and time at the machine shop.
The harmonic balancer will need a pulley puller to take off. That big nut on the front should be fun to remove. I had to use a breaker bar and extension to bust mine loose. Then it just spun off. The sender is probably junk - get another one. The oil fill tube comes out really easy. Use a rubber mallet and gently tap it side to side, then front to back. Once it loosens, you can twist it out basically with your hands.
At least your block came clean. Mine was full of rust and had a split water jacket on the 7 cylinder so it really was a boat anchor in disguise.
Thanks for the tips on getting it off. I will give it a try soon.
Now the difficult part is trying to figure what setup to use for the rebuild. SO many options.
Last edited by Chaney3000; October 10th, 2011 at 07:15 PM.
October 10th, 2011, 11:44 PM
#22
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I'll be watching this thread closely Chaney. I have also acquired what seems to be very close to what you have. Mine was missing some of the brackets on the front though.
Mine is 1970 also w/ E heads and 2bbl. Motor # is 30X102438. Big D points out your is the low compression motor. That would be 9.0-1 wouldn't it? I'll assume mine is probably the low compression model too. Appears to be the same carb with all the same switches, vac lines and all to a T as mine. Mine has T and A exhaust manifolds. I'm in process of putting mine together as far as brackets and such to see if I can fire it up. I might just run it awhile if the compression and oil pressure are good and be looking forward to rebuilding it in the next year or so as funds become available.
I too will hoping to find 425-450hp out of it. Mine will be going into a 84 C20 3/4 ton pickup and a 67 Variable Pitch Th400. I will rebuild the VP Th400 but use the short threaded bolt on yoke output shaft that is original to the truck. Then I have the motor pads out of an 80 C10 to a truck that was originally Olds 350 Diesel. I'll change those motor pads to the frame of the truck. After the mod to the trans output shaft, the motor pad swap in the frame, this motor should bolt right in and use the OEM crossmember and driveshaft to the truck. All of it will be bolted in as if it rolled off the assembly line that way originally. I will also have to shorten the wiring harness to the starter to move the wires to the driver side of the engine compartment. My hopes it put together a sleeper truck that noone will expect to move out of its own way but it will and noone will know its actually a ChevrOldslet pick up unless they get to see under the hood.
Enough about my project, I don't want to steal your thunder here, but please document what all you're doing to yours and I just might copy cat it if you don't mind.
Mine is 1970 also w/ E heads and 2bbl. Motor # is 30X102438. Big D points out your is the low compression motor. That would be 9.0-1 wouldn't it? I'll assume mine is probably the low compression model too. Appears to be the same carb with all the same switches, vac lines and all to a T as mine. Mine has T and A exhaust manifolds. I'm in process of putting mine together as far as brackets and such to see if I can fire it up. I might just run it awhile if the compression and oil pressure are good and be looking forward to rebuilding it in the next year or so as funds become available.
I too will hoping to find 425-450hp out of it. Mine will be going into a 84 C20 3/4 ton pickup and a 67 Variable Pitch Th400. I will rebuild the VP Th400 but use the short threaded bolt on yoke output shaft that is original to the truck. Then I have the motor pads out of an 80 C10 to a truck that was originally Olds 350 Diesel. I'll change those motor pads to the frame of the truck. After the mod to the trans output shaft, the motor pad swap in the frame, this motor should bolt right in and use the OEM crossmember and driveshaft to the truck. All of it will be bolted in as if it rolled off the assembly line that way originally. I will also have to shorten the wiring harness to the starter to move the wires to the driver side of the engine compartment. My hopes it put together a sleeper truck that noone will expect to move out of its own way but it will and noone will know its actually a ChevrOldslet pick up unless they get to see under the hood.
Enough about my project, I don't want to steal your thunder here, but please document what all you're doing to yours and I just might copy cat it if you don't mind.
Last edited by hotrodpc; June 16th, 2012 at 12:13 AM.
October 11th, 2011, 05:51 AM
#23
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cool... i put a high compression 455 in a '73 suburban, holley street dominator intake, 3310 carb & comp 270 cam and a set of delta 88 headers. also ran a turbo 400 and had 3.42 gears in the corporate 14 bolt rear end... that thing would haul ***! it'd pass anything but a gas station!
October 11th, 2011, 07:24 AM
#24
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When dealing with head cores,I prefer a small-valve head.You can machine the seats/bowls the way they need to be for the larger valves.Leave the exhaust valve the stock size,and install the larger 2.07" or larger intake valves.
Unless your bores are mint,you won't be reusing your original pistons anyway,but if you did,the 70 2bbl pistons still have a smaller dish than the later 455's.
Unless your bores are mint,you won't be reusing your original pistons anyway,but if you did,the 70 2bbl pistons still have a smaller dish than the later 455's.
October 11th, 2011, 07:48 PM
#25
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You can pick it up at advance auto parts or any other part store.
I sprayed it on my stubborn bolts let it soak in for a few mins and give it some "elbow grease"
I think I had to double apply it to a few bolts but it was mostly because I didn't have a long enough breaker for the proper leverage.
It looks like the same engine. I can tell you this much, the intake and heads account for a LOT of the weight of that engine. I don't know the compressions for the stock engine. This project has been on hold for a while.
I will be taking my time with this build as I will be doing a lot of it myself (well with the help of some buddies along the way) and I am on a budget. I don't plan on getting cheaper quality parts/labor but saving up funds to get quality. I am a firm believer in doing it right the first time.
I will post up my build list as it comes along (with pics). The first thing I'm doing is looking for some quality machine shops in the area. I got some recommendations but I'm not sure one way or the other with them.
I sprayed it on my stubborn bolts let it soak in for a few mins and give it some "elbow grease"
I think I had to double apply it to a few bolts but it was mostly because I didn't have a long enough breaker for the proper leverage.
I'll be watching this thread closely Chaney. I have also acquired what seems to be very close to what you have. Mine was missing some of the brackets on the front though.
Mine is 1970 also w/ E heads and 2bbl. Motor # is 30X102438. Big D points out your is the low compression motor. That would be 9.0-1 wouldn't it? I'll assume mine is probably the low compression model too. Appears to be the same carb with all the same switches, vac lines and all to a T as mine. Mine has T and A exhaust manifolds. I'm in process of putting mine together as far as brackets and such to see if I can fire it up. I might just run it awhile if the compression and oil pressure are good and be looking forward to rebuilding it in the next year or so as funds become available.
I too will hoping to find 425-450hp out of it. Mine will be going into a 84 C20 3/4 ton pickup and a 67 Variable Pitch Th400. I will rebuild the VP Th400 but use the short threaded bolt on yoke output shaft that is original to the truck. Then I have the motor pads out of an 80 C10 to a truck that was originally Olds 350 Diesel. I'll change those motor pads to the frame of the truck. After the mod to the trans output shaft, the motor pad swap in the frame, this motor should bolt right in and use the OEM crossmember and driveshaft to the truck. All of it will be bolted in as if it rolled off the assembly line that way originally. I will also have to shorten the wiring harness to the starter to move the wires to the driver side of the engine compartment. My hopes it put together a sleeper truck that noone will expect to move out of its own way but it will and noone will know its actually a ChevrOldslet pick up unless they get to see under the hood.
Enough about my project, I don't want to steal your thunder here, but please document what all you're doing to yours and I just might copy cat it if you don't mind.
Mine is 1970 also w/ E heads and 2bbl. Motor # is 30X102438. Big D points out your is the low compression motor. That would be 9.0-1 wouldn't it? I'll assume mine is probably the low compression model too. Appears to be the same carb with all the same switches, vac lines and all to a T as mine. Mine has T and A exhaust manifolds. I'm in process of putting mine together as far as brackets and such to see if I can fire it up. I might just run it awhile if the compression and oil pressure are good and be looking forward to rebuilding it in the next year or so as funds become available.
I too will hoping to find 425-450hp out of it. Mine will be going into a 84 C20 3/4 ton pickup and a 67 Variable Pitch Th400. I will rebuild the VP Th400 but use the short threaded bolt on yoke output shaft that is original to the truck. Then I have the motor pads out of an 80 C10 to a truck that was originally Olds 350 Diesel. I'll change those motor pads to the frame of the truck. After the mod to the trans output shaft, the motor pad swap in the frame, this motor should bolt right in and use the OEM crossmember and driveshaft to the truck. All of it will be bolted in as if it rolled off the assembly line that way originally. I will also have to shorten the wiring harness to the starter to move the wires to the driver side of the engine compartment. My hopes it put together a sleeper truck that noone will expect to move out of its own way but it will and noone will know its actually a ChevrOldslet pick up unless they get to see under the hood.
Enough about my project, I don't want to steal your thunder here, but please document what all you're doing to yours and I just might copy cat it if you don't mind.
I will be taking my time with this build as I will be doing a lot of it myself (well with the help of some buddies along the way) and I am on a budget. I don't plan on getting cheaper quality parts/labor but saving up funds to get quality. I am a firm believer in doing it right the first time.
I will post up my build list as it comes along (with pics). The first thing I'm doing is looking for some quality machine shops in the area. I got some recommendations but I'm not sure one way or the other with them.
Last edited by Chaney3000; October 11th, 2011 at 07:53 PM.
October 11th, 2011, 08:07 PM
#26
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You can pick it up at advance auto parts or any other part store.
I sprayed it on my stubborn bolts let it soak in for a few mins and give it some "elbow grease"
I think I had to double apply it to a few bolts but it was mostly because I didn't have a long enough breaker for the proper leverage.
It looks like the same engine. I can tell you this much, the intake and heads account for a LOT of the weight of that engine. I don't know the compressions for the stock engine. This project has been on hold for a while.
I will be taking my time with this build as I will be doing a lot of it myself (well with the help of some buddies along the way) and I am on a budget. I don't plan on getting cheaper quality parts/labor but saving up funds to get quality. I am a firm believer in doing it right the first time.
I will post up my build list as it comes along (with pics). The first thing I'm doing is looking for some quality machine shops in the area. I got some recommendations but I'm not sure one way or the other with them.
I sprayed it on my stubborn bolts let it soak in for a few mins and give it some "elbow grease"
I think I had to double apply it to a few bolts but it was mostly because I didn't have a long enough breaker for the proper leverage.
It looks like the same engine. I can tell you this much, the intake and heads account for a LOT of the weight of that engine. I don't know the compressions for the stock engine. This project has been on hold for a while.
I will be taking my time with this build as I will be doing a lot of it myself (well with the help of some buddies along the way) and I am on a budget. I don't plan on getting cheaper quality parts/labor but saving up funds to get quality. I am a firm believer in doing it right the first time.
I will post up my build list as it comes along (with pics). The first thing I'm doing is looking for some quality machine shops in the area. I got some recommendations but I'm not sure one way or the other with them.
Awesome !!! I'm right there with you totally. It'll have to be done in pieces as funds permit in baby steps.
Anyone wanting to try anything better than PB Blaster, beleive it or not, there is something better, and you can make it home yourself for cheaper. I usually make a quart at a time, or if you choose, go ahead and makes 2 quarts. You mix 1 quart Auto trans fluid, and 1 quart Acetone. It also cleans as it penetrates. Works great for soaking stuck motors too. Just pour it into your cylinders thru the spark plug holes using a funnel. Let is soak a couple days, and if its to be unseized, that stuff will do it. Of course I'm reffeing to rusted rings, not a oil out bearing seize. You're on your own with that one.
October 17th, 2011, 08:11 PM
#27
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Posts: 54
Ok, looking at some goodies.
Need some help? Clevite bearings (main, rod and cam) all have an undersized verision or standard? What is this referring to? And Cloyes has multiple timing chains to choose from, how do you know which one to go with?
Also, what is with the oil restrictors for the engine? I have seen some people mention it as a needed option but others don't mention it in their build.
Need some help? Clevite bearings (main, rod and cam) all have an undersized verision or standard? What is this referring to? And Cloyes has multiple timing chains to choose from, how do you know which one to go with?
Also, what is with the oil restrictors for the engine? I have seen some people mention it as a needed option but others don't mention it in their build.
October 18th, 2011, 05:03 AM
#28
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Don't need the restictors imo. Bearing sizes will be determined by the journal size of the crank, let your machinist handle that.
A good roller chain with multiple keyways is most desireable, unless you're not going to degree the cam, then buy whatever you want.
A good roller chain with multiple keyways is most desireable, unless you're not going to degree the cam, then buy whatever you want.
October 18th, 2011, 07:46 AM
#29
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I was thinking as much about the bearings. I just wanted to be sure before I ordered anything.
Thanks for the reply.
October 18th, 2011, 10:49 AM
#30
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I'd wait til after a meeting with your machinist to order your kit. Otherwise, your machinist will sell you bearings, and some will come with the kit too. So have your machinest clean everything up taking off little as possible, like a just polish the crank if its good enough, or just turn it .010 / .010 . If you are boring the block, you're pretty much safe going .030 over, but if it needs .040 over to clean up, then check to see if you can get .040 over pistons and rings. If not, you might have to tell the machinist to go .060 over. Just saying, don't jump the gun and order your kit til you confer with the machinist and know what oversizes to get for your crank bearings and pistons. Cam bearings should always be able to be OEM size. If your cam journals are bad and need turned, just get a new cam instead.
October 18th, 2011, 04:31 PM
#32
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I'd wait til after a meeting with your machinist to order your kit. Otherwise, your machinist will sell you bearings, and some will come with the kit too. So have your machinest clean everything up taking off little as possible, like a just polish the crank if its good enough, or just turn it .010 / .010 . If you are boring the block, you're pretty much safe going .030 over, but if it needs .040 over to clean up, then check to see if you can get .040 over pistons and rings. If not, you might have to tell the machinist to go .060 over. Just saying, don't jump the gun and order your kit til you confer with the machinist and know what oversizes to get for your crank bearings and pistons. Cam bearings should always be able to be OEM size. If your cam journals are bad and need turned, just get a new cam instead.
I kind of had a feeling that I would have to order this stuff after I dropped off the engine at the machine shop.
October 18th, 2011, 05:36 PM
#33
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I'm looking around for price comparisons to adjust my budget. I want to be as knowledgeable as possible about prices so I was looking around. And saw the multiple type of bearing sizes and was wondering about that.
I kind of had a feeling that I would have to order this stuff after I dropped off the engine at the machine shop.
I kind of had a feeling that I would have to order this stuff after I dropped off the engine at the machine shop.
Eveyone and anyone can shop for prices, but don't fall for cheap and get cheap junk either. Although, some cheap kits are the good stuff too, so just saying be aware of what you are getting in a kit and if it costs a few bucks more to upgrade things in the kit, go for it to get the quality. Example, I've had kits that come with cheap Mr Gasket or McCord gasket kits. For $20 upgrade give me Fel Pro anyday. Know the good brands and know the good brands for your build. Just cuz someone makes a good oil pump for small block chevy, doesn't mean its a good pump for Olds. Melling usually makes good pumps. I've never had a problem with Clevite bearings or Durabond Cam bearings whcih are Clevite so I stick with them. Then agian, there is likley only 2 bearing manufactuers so another name maybe as good as Clevites. Just saying, keep doing your homework, and hopefully other will post up with their experiences of good and/or bad kits.
October 18th, 2011, 05:59 PM
#34
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Posts: 3
Sounds real similar to my project...
I have an 86 Cadillac Brougham that has been in the family since new. The 307 is coming out and I picked up a 68 455 with "C" heads to replace it with.
My build will be mostly stock. Just want something reasonably reliable that will move this thing around. I'm going to stay with the stock overdrive transmission so most of my upgrades will be for driveability and durability. Still should be able to about double the torque output of the original engine.
Good luck with your build!
I have an 86 Cadillac Brougham that has been in the family since new. The 307 is coming out and I picked up a 68 455 with "C" heads to replace it with.
My build will be mostly stock. Just want something reasonably reliable that will move this thing around. I'm going to stay with the stock overdrive transmission so most of my upgrades will be for driveability and durability. Still should be able to about double the torque output of the original engine.
Good luck with your build!
October 20th, 2011, 06:51 PM
#35
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 54
Good idea to shop around, and machine shops USUALLY are one the expensive places to get your kit. I had always got my kits mail order except when I lived in LA, I could go to Speedomotive or PAW in person and get them.
Eveyone and anyone can shop for prices, but don't fall for cheap and get cheap junk either. Although, some cheap kits are the good stuff too, so just saying be aware of what you are getting in a kit and if it costs a few bucks more to upgrade things in the kit, go for it to get the quality. Example, I've had kits that come with cheap Mr Gasket or McCord gasket kits. For $20 upgrade give me Fel Pro anyday. Know the good brands and know the good brands for your build. Just cuz someone makes a good oil pump for small block chevy, doesn't mean its a good pump for Olds. Melling usually makes good pumps. I've never had a problem with Clevite bearings or Durabond Cam bearings whcih are Clevite so I stick with them. Then agian, there is likley only 2 bearing manufactuers so another name maybe as good as Clevites. Just saying, keep doing your homework, and hopefully other will post up with their experiences of good and/or bad kits.
Eveyone and anyone can shop for prices, but don't fall for cheap and get cheap junk either. Although, some cheap kits are the good stuff too, so just saying be aware of what you are getting in a kit and if it costs a few bucks more to upgrade things in the kit, go for it to get the quality. Example, I've had kits that come with cheap Mr Gasket or McCord gasket kits. For $20 upgrade give me Fel Pro anyday. Know the good brands and know the good brands for your build. Just cuz someone makes a good oil pump for small block chevy, doesn't mean its a good pump for Olds. Melling usually makes good pumps. I've never had a problem with Clevite bearings or Durabond Cam bearings whcih are Clevite so I stick with them. Then agian, there is likley only 2 bearing manufactuers so another name maybe as good as Clevites. Just saying, keep doing your homework, and hopefully other will post up with their experiences of good and/or bad kits.
I'm going on some suggestions on a machine shop that a friend gave me that races. Even, this is not concrete for me. I want to shop around for machine shops as well.
Thanks for the advice. Keep it coming man. And as I go along with the project, I will post it up.
Sounds real similar to my project...
I have an 86 Cadillac Brougham that has been in the family since new. The 307 is coming out and I picked up a 68 455 with "C" heads to replace it with.
My build will be mostly stock. Just want something reasonably reliable that will move this thing around. I'm going to stay with the stock overdrive transmission so most of my upgrades will be for driveability and durability. Still should be able to about double the torque output of the original engine.
Good luck with your build!
I have an 86 Cadillac Brougham that has been in the family since new. The 307 is coming out and I picked up a 68 455 with "C" heads to replace it with.
My build will be mostly stock. Just want something reasonably reliable that will move this thing around. I'm going to stay with the stock overdrive transmission so most of my upgrades will be for driveability and durability. Still should be able to about double the torque output of the original engine.
Good luck with your build!
It depends on how far you go for rebuilding.
I have seen lots of "stock rebuild" build sheets so there are lots of blue prints for it out there.
Let us know how it goes.
October 21st, 2011, 06:56 AM
#36
Guys,
I'm the OWNER of this company www.enginetech.com. Go to the website, and download the e-catalog. We sell products globally to professional engine builders
(heres the link to the 455 page http://enginetechcatalog.com/EngineA...rtno=GM455C-OL)
There's a bunch of specs listed as well as what we have available. Most of the stuff we have is manufactured by the usual suspects (Silvolite, Melling, Victor Reinz) but some stuff is proprietary - our cam bearings are full circle seamless (Durabond type) held to even more exacting standards. Best of all, I'm an Olds guy, and can hook you up on price (pay no attention to the prices listed) PM me if anyone has any needs.
I'm the OWNER of this company www.enginetech.com. Go to the website, and download the e-catalog. We sell products globally to professional engine builders
(heres the link to the 455 page http://enginetechcatalog.com/EngineA...rtno=GM455C-OL)
There's a bunch of specs listed as well as what we have available. Most of the stuff we have is manufactured by the usual suspects (Silvolite, Melling, Victor Reinz) but some stuff is proprietary - our cam bearings are full circle seamless (Durabond type) held to even more exacting standards. Best of all, I'm an Olds guy, and can hook you up on price (pay no attention to the prices listed) PM me if anyone has any needs.
October 21st, 2011, 07:06 AM
#37
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Montreal, QC
Posts: 2,175
Hey Joe,
Good to know! My 350 is going to need some attention in the next year or so. It's sucking a good 21 vaccuum at idle. But it seems a little tired.
Oh man i'd love a 455, but Do you have a page for the 350 olds?? I'd like to keep my rust bucket numbers matching
Cheers,
Tony
Good to know! My 350 is going to need some attention in the next year or so. It's sucking a good 21 vaccuum at idle. But it seems a little tired.
Oh man i'd love a 455, but Do you have a page for the 350 olds?? I'd like to keep my rust bucket numbers matching
Cheers,
Tony
Guys,
I'm the OWNER of this company www.enginetech.com. Go to the website, and download the e-catalog. We sell products globally to professional engine builders
(heres the link to the 455 page http://enginetechcatalog.com/EngineA...rtno=GM455C-OL)
There's a bunch of specs listed as well as what we have available. Most of the stuff we have is manufactured by the usual suspects (Silvolite, Melling, Victor Reinz) but some stuff is proprietary - our cam bearings are full circle seamless (Durabond type) held to even more exacting standards. Best of all, I'm an Olds guy, and can hook you up on price (pay no attention to the prices listed) PM me if anyone has any needs.
I'm the OWNER of this company www.enginetech.com. Go to the website, and download the e-catalog. We sell products globally to professional engine builders
(heres the link to the 455 page http://enginetechcatalog.com/EngineA...rtno=GM455C-OL)
There's a bunch of specs listed as well as what we have available. Most of the stuff we have is manufactured by the usual suspects (Silvolite, Melling, Victor Reinz) but some stuff is proprietary - our cam bearings are full circle seamless (Durabond type) held to even more exacting standards. Best of all, I'm an Olds guy, and can hook you up on price (pay no attention to the prices listed) PM me if anyone has any needs.
October 21st, 2011, 07:14 AM
#38
Tony, there's a page for 350's as well - we are pretty much a full line engine parts supplier for US and Asian import car and light truck.
We dont sell the high compression (W-31) piston, but do have the 402194 W-31 cam in the line - it's our ES176R P/N made by the same company who originally produced these for Olds back in the day.
We dont sell the high compression (W-31) piston, but do have the 402194 W-31 cam in the line - it's our ES176R P/N made by the same company who originally produced these for Olds back in the day.
October 22nd, 2011, 02:34 PM
#39
Im in the same boat on the rebuild. Right now I'm looking at a rebuilt short block and rebuilt J heads a guy has for sell in a package deal with another 455 complet e core with a 4 speed crank and flywheel for around 2500. But my block is at my machine shop and If i go with it I'm looking at the reground cast crank, Eagle rods, and Probe forged pistons in thew bottom end so far. With Edelbrock heads maybe. Thanks for the link costpenn.
October 22nd, 2011, 07:05 PM
#40
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Central Fl
Posts: 7,828
Im in the same boat on the rebuild. Right now I'm looking at a rebuilt short block and rebuilt J heads a guy has for sell in a package deal with another 455 complet e core with a 4 speed crank and flywheel for around 2500. But my block is at my machine shop and If i go with it I'm looking at the reground cast crank, Eagle rods, and Probe forged pistons in thew bottom end so far. With Edelbrock heads maybe. Thanks for the link costpenn.
