455 Build Project

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Old October 22nd, 2011, 07:10 PM
  #41  
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Joe,

Cool i found the page! Lots of awesome goodies on here. I'm surprised oldsmobile didnt make their cams themselves? Was it the same for crankshafts?

I wonder if different GM divisions got their parts from different suppliers?


Originally Posted by costpenn
Tony, there's a page for 350's as well - we are pretty much a full line engine parts supplier for US and Asian import car and light truck.

We dont sell the high compression (W-31) piston, but do have the 402194 W-31 cam in the line - it's our ES176R P/N made by the same company who originally produced these for Olds back in the day.
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Old October 22nd, 2011, 07:42 PM
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But why would you want a cam that is 40 year old technology?
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Old October 23rd, 2011, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by cutlassefi
But why would you want a cam that is 40 year old technology?
Because to sit behind the car, beer in hand, on a nice summer's evening with that thing idling away at about 650 rpm is pretty damn close to heaven for me....
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Old October 23rd, 2011, 07:13 PM
  #44  
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Camshaft technology has come a long way since then.At least they figured-out not to grind an Olds cam like a Chevy.
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Old October 24th, 2011, 02:11 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by cutlassefi
That combination will give you 11.0:1 or better, is that what you're looking for?
I'm looking for the most the most power ,comp. torque, drivability and lope from a hyd. roller cam, and possibly efi on my car.
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Old October 24th, 2011, 07:07 PM
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Here is the build sheet on my latest 455 build. I believe it will be a strong runner. Use it for comparison if you want. I bought the cam and lifters from cutlassefi
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Old October 25th, 2011, 03:52 AM
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Originally Posted by citcapp
Here is the build sheet on my latest 455 build. I believe it will be a strong runner. Use it for comparison if you want. I bought the cam and lifters from cutlassefi
Thanks citcapp, thats some really good info to follow. I will keep you posted.
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Old October 29th, 2011, 06:06 PM
  #48  
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Thanks for all the information

Originally Posted by costpenn
Guys,

I'm the OWNER of this company www.enginetech.com. Go to the website, and download the e-catalog. We sell products globally to professional engine builders
(heres the link to the 455 page http://enginetechcatalog.com/EngineA...rtno=GM455C-OL)

There's a bunch of specs listed as well as what we have available. Most of the stuff we have is manufactured by the usual suspects (Silvolite, Melling, Victor Reinz) but some stuff is proprietary - our cam bearings are full circle seamless (Durabond type) held to even more exacting standards. Best of all, I'm an Olds guy, and can hook you up on price (pay no attention to the prices listed) PM me if anyone has any needs.
Thanks for the information, you will shortly become a new best friend! The catalog link didn't work on my computer. Do I need to contact your company like it says on the website?
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Old October 30th, 2011, 09:11 AM
  #49  
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Chaney3000 I noticed you say about 4 hours from Dick Miller in Mississippi. Is that east or west of him? I live in Shreveport La. west of him. I have lots of 455 parts, a set of higher compression stock pistons, several sets of big block headers BTR's new book so if you need anything let me know. I am not good a posting pictures but will try to post a pic of my garage with my 69 442, 69 Cutlass S and my 78 Omega soon to be street strip car.
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Old November 18th, 2011, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by costpenn
Because to sit behind the car, beer in hand, on a nice summer's evening with that thing idling away at about 650 rpm is pretty damn close to heaven for me....
Definitely X2. Especially now that i have my new edelbrock 1405 on my Rocket, The plugs dont foul anymore if i let her idle!

Although i guess if you leave any classical V8 for an extended period of idle the plugs will get black. But mine seem to be nice and brown so far.
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Old November 18th, 2011, 01:22 PM
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Just an fyi, you can make a small carb run rich and a big carb run lean if jetted accordingly.
However, typically a smaller carb will idle and respond better than a larger one.
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Old November 19th, 2011, 06:16 PM
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Any carb can be tuned. I don't get any load-up or black plgs with my 830 Holley.I just went down one jet size & up one squirter size.I can sit in traffic,a parade,or just let it sit & idle.
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Old November 20th, 2011, 08:17 AM
  #53  
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Cutlass EFI and Brian,

heh, i'm slowly learning as i go along. When i took apart my Q-Jet, the previous owner of my car had JB-Welded a couple parts together to stop them from leaking, long story short, the base was completely warped and looked like the carb had been pieced together really poorly. (this wasn't something i picked up on the first time i rebuilt it back in college.

I bought the edelbrock tuning kit for my 1405. I did some iterations. But it seems that right now it's running best out of the box. I'll probably do some more tuning in the new year when i actually have some open road to drive on. Since right now i can only drive around my hometown area due to my cutlass not being Road certified yet.

Cheers,

Tony
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Old November 21st, 2011, 08:17 AM
  #54  
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Speaking of which.

Do we have a comprehensive list of OEM parts manufacturers for Oldsmobile? For instance, who made the cams? I'd be interested in this information as i slowly dive deep into restoring everything under my hood. Slowly...
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Old November 22nd, 2011, 04:29 AM
  #55  
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Yes,there are many camshaft suppliers,but not as many actual makers,or companies that actually grind them.Camshaft technology has come a long way,so using an old grind,is a step backward,in my opinion.I think that is one thing that led to Crane's downfall.Their patterns were dated duds,and did not seem to change with the times.Harold Brookshire is a great person to talk to about camshafts.He worked for Comp,then started his own company,Ultradyne,then went on to work for Lunati.He has made some killer grinds.I run some of his Utradynes in a few of my cars.If you simply want a production cam,,from a place like Summit Racing,then I would look at the Comp Cams,and the Lunati's.If your are going to have a cam ground to your exact engine specs,then Mark could get one done by Erson,or anyone else can get one ground for you.
BTW,I think your color in 1972 was called Covert Beige.I know in 1970,it was Bamboo.
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Old November 22nd, 2011, 06:03 AM
  #56  
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Hey brian,

That sounds cool, i know camshaft technology has come quite a long way, but i have a bone stock engine except for the 1405 carb sitting on top.

Actually it's funny you mention the covert beige colour, because that's the colour code of my interior. I decided to change it to saddle brown because i like the brown.

I'm pretty sure i have the bamboo colour code on the other hand.. I have an '81' on the cowl tag where the paint colour is. But the 72' CSM calls it "Mamboo" I guess it was a typo..



When i bought the car it looked like this...


And now it looks like this!

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car before and after Tony.JPG (132.0 KB, 1213 views)
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Last edited by Tony72Cutlass'S'; November 22nd, 2011 at 06:08 AM.
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Old November 28th, 2011, 06:47 AM
  #57  
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Sorry for the leave guys. Here is the update of where I'm at now.

Found a machine shop through a recommendation from a friend. I'm waiting on an engine he did to come back so I can see his work before I drop my engine off there.

Meanwhile, I have been throughing around some ideas about the bottom end of the motor. I want to re-use the crank after getting it cleaned and checked. I'm getting new pistons 0.30 oversived. But my dilemma is whether to re-use the stock rods, after recondtioning?

Pros vs Cons? Stock rods vs New rods?

I was told that the value of getting new rods is more important if I plan on racing which I don't. So is this a fair argument? They said for my purposed the stock rods could handle the stress of my street abuse with some track runs. He mentioned when you start getting into NOS additions and things like that, that is when you need the upgraded rods like Eagle.

Your thoughts would appreciated.

And, 78 omega 468, I stay east of Dick Miller. In Birmingham, AL.

Last edited by Chaney3000; November 28th, 2011 at 06:54 AM.
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Old December 21st, 2011, 11:57 AM
  #58  
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Hey there, I am in the process of putting my '68 455 Toro motor back together. I agree with not changing the rods. I didn't change mine either. They could even handle NOS. But nothing over and occasional 125 shot. This is my first build but from my knowledge and research, Olds used the good stuff initially. So, if your not going to strip race it or go into the 550+ hp range they're good. That goes for the crank too.

I am in Montgomery. I used a shop here (Lowes Auto on 424 Bibb Street, Montgomery, AL (334) 832-9773) to get my block cleaned up. They did a good job on it. I even had them put new freeze plugs and the new cam bearings in. How far from B-Ham is the shop youre thinking of using.
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Old December 21st, 2011, 12:26 PM
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Depends on the hp/tq but I wouldn't use the stock rods for anything over 400, nitrous or not.

Jmo.
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Old June 10th, 2012, 03:25 PM
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Hey guys, been a long time. Here's an update on the build.

Got the block completely torn down. Ready to got to machine shop. I just got in a position to order the necessary parts. Just got some new Eagle Rods last week and ordering some ICON forged pistons later this month.

Slow and steady. (Budget won't allow for nothing else )

I got some extra parts here that I will be offering up for grabs too. Wife wants the garage back.
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Old June 16th, 2012, 12:31 AM
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Thanks for the update Chaney. Been awhile since I visited the thread too. Hopefully I'm subscribed now to get updates.
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