IZAOLDS

Ok guys ive got 455 block now Im trying to gather parts info need top to bottom front to back complete turn key, I would like to achieve 450-500hp to the rr wheels, buget depends on how bad i want it considering Ill litterally be working for it on an over-overtime basis and i do want it that bad itl prob take til end of spring which is all good....so here is what i have so far, with the parts needed, (on paper of course) now if not correct pls lmk.....

arp-connecting rod bolts
750 carb
1.60:1 alum roller-rckr arms
pushrods
cam lifters timing chain kit-comp cam sk422244
edelbrk heads 6051 are these right ones?
head bolt kit
edelbrk intake 2151 is this right?
edelbrk valve cvrs 4485
cam bearings 1234m
forged pistons and pins which ones do I need
high volume oil pump
main bearings
oil pump drvshft and screen
piston rings
rod bearings
gaskts
rr main seal
hooker headers which woud be best?
msd billet elec distrib 8566

now do I use any of the items from orig block such as crank connecting rods etc what am i missing if anything pls be mindful i am not to knowledgeable in this area all my mentions are from reserch and 2nd info I need all you guys and btw if it matters its going in a 71 cutlass with a 400 trans....thanks in advance guys

Frankenstien

I will be watching this list too. I would like to rebuild my 455, so thanks for starting this post. Hope it gets some good attention.

kaz442

Where are you located? I would first talk to an good Olds engine builder. I HIGHLY recommend BTR Proformance out of Rochester NY. Trust me I have learned the hard way. Tried using the local builder and machinst, it was worth the 5hr ride. Even if your to far to travel he can set you up with the right combo of parts to make it live.
As for your list,
ARP rod bolts are good, you will have to recon your rods. But you'll be passed the limit of stock rods with the RR hp you want. I would go after market
950-1000carb
cam set up talk to a good builder
edelbrock heads 60519 BTR has several version
head bolts= arp head studs
Pistons = CP has several off the shelf pistons for an Olds top quality and light weight
HV oil pump= better be going with an after market 7-8qt pan
Rings and bearings and such talk to a good builder and get what he recommends.
Header - hookers are the best bang for your buck, but if you have them coated then your in the quality header $$ range. IE American racing headers
Intake go with a Torker, if you have hood clearance then the Victor
This is just some of the basic, I been though the ringer when it comes to big blocks. If the wife new the $$ involved it would get UGLY. Do you homework and ask questions before you start piecing it together.
JKaz

IZAOLDS

yea im in Detroit MI, havent started looking for olds builders yet, but yes sir I sure will and thanks for your input aswell all is needed.....

cutlassefi

Even with that you're still only looking at 480-500 at the crank, see Panos's build I did.

Use good parts like the ones I used and just do a shot of nitrous or stroke it to put you over the top. That's the only way you'll get there and still be real streetable imo. You'll need nearly 600 at the crank to see the better part of 500 at the wheels. Good luck.

Mark

IZAOLDS

Where can I find that build for Panos?

67442nut

To get 450-500HP at the wheels, you'll need to make 600HP or better (depending on the type of transmission)
at the crank to allow for the drivetrain losses.
A 400TH transmission alone will rob 60-70 HP. This is before driveshaft and rear end losses are considered.

cutlassefi

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ess-455-a.html

Stock C heads
Stock Performer
830 Quick Fuel
1 3/4 Hedman Headers
SRP Pistons, 10.8:1
Erson Hyd Roller, 238/246 @ .050, on a 110 in at 106, .584/.592 lift with Scorpion 1.6 Rockers.

Hope this helps.

Mark

507OLDS

Pretty much what Jkaz said.Talk to Bill.Take your time & save your money & do it once.The Hooker 1 7/8" headers are real nice,& they fit pretty well.You will not know what pushrods you will need until you begin setting the rockers.Mind you,Bill is particular about what parts he installs on his engines,& like he says "please call before buying parts to build your engine".

IZAOLDS

Would a .o60 overbore be too much with the above parts mentioned and would there be any issues ie overheating etc

kaz442

No problem, any more then you would have to sonic check it.
JKaz

firefrost gold

cutlassefi what would you build if you wanted a 500 hp at the wheels all in by say 5800 rpm in a a body olds and do you have a shop or work from home on the side?

cutlassefi

Certainly depends on your budget but you could stroke it, or spend that money on head work.

Again to get 500 at the wheels you're looking at needing close to 600 at the crank. Without alot of cubic inches you start to get to the point where driveability suffers. I also wouldn't rule out nitrous. If you build the bottom end right there will be no issues. Plus you don't need to go crazy on the cam, again better driveability.

I have a shop behind my house. I do engine building and am an EFI tech on the side. Been doing it longer than I want to admit.

Mark

firefrost gold

The ? at hand was what would you build . Best bang for the buck to get the end results.

cutlassefi

Probably stroker, depending on budget. I'd go with either the Eagle kit or take the BBO crank offset grind it to 4.5 with BBC journals and go from there. Parts are readily available as well. Plus it'll give you outrageous torque.

But if on a tighter budget, nitrous.

sx455raidercelticfan

like they said contact a olds engine builder not a chevy builder!!!! also if you want 2 get the most out of your engine you must gear the trans and rear 2 match, its almost a waste 2 build a hot motor and have stock converter and stock rear gears, gearing your trans and rear 2 match is the most important part

Run to Rund

Olds heads are the limiting factor, whether 400 or 500 cubic inches. I wouldn't spend big money on stroking before proper heads/porting and a good camshaft.