Solid motor mount

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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 08:24 AM
  #1  
covertolds's Avatar
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Solid motor mount

I've been wanting to do a solid mount on the drivers side for some time. I finally bit the bullet and designed and built my own. My car has a 455 with what appears to be small block mounts and frame pads. The OE style mount has part #2261 on it.

I bought a new mount at O'Reilly for the tidy sum of $3.29 and used it to fab up a jig to give me the proper mounting holes and angles needed. I made a few different mounts making changes until I came up with one I liked.

Jig
20130124_105731.jpg

Jig with stock mount
20130124_105400.jpg

The mount I made has 3/8" mild steel for the engine mount side and 1/4" mild steel for the angled pieces going to the frame pad.

Tacked together
20130126_080826.jpg

I'm fortunate enough to have access to a Bridgeport mill so all pieces were created with it.

TIG weld before paint.
20130128_071940.jpg

Painted and ready for install.
20130204_095015-1.jpg

20130210_081621.jpg



Installed
20130210_101008.jpg

20130210_101034.jpg

Last edited by covertolds; Feb 10, 2013 at 08:29 AM.
Old Feb 10, 2013 | 08:29 AM
  #2  
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Very nice, we were talking about the unavailability of solid mounts for Olds a while back.
Old Feb 19, 2013 | 04:36 PM
  #3  
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Made another one.

20130216_153438-1.jpg

20130219_150834.jpg
Old Feb 19, 2013 | 06:50 PM
  #4  
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Very nice metalwork!
But why only the driver's side? I thought mounts should be either all rubber or all solid to avoid flexing at a solid mount...
Old Feb 19, 2013 | 06:58 PM
  #5  
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hey buddie if this is not permanetly installed yet it could rattle you real good with decent power. I use a competition engineering torque limiter with a rubber mount and it does not seem to be to bad to deal with. I am almost definite that solid mounts are great for wheelie cars though maybe that could be your cue to do it though.
Old Feb 20, 2013 | 04:21 AM
  #6  
380 Racer's Avatar
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Nice work Bill, I see you are still keeping your car perfect. I always liked that thing!
Old Feb 20, 2013 | 04:40 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by jfb
hey buddie if this is not permanetly installed yet it could rattle you real good with decent power. I use a competition engineering torque limiter with a rubber mount and it does not seem to be to bad to deal with. I am almost definite that solid mounts are great for wheelie cars though maybe that could be your cue to do it though.
I run one solid and one rubber mount. No vibration issues. Seems the same as two rubber mounts to me.
Old Feb 20, 2013 | 06:10 AM
  #8  
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A lot of people run a solid on the drivers side and rubber on passenger. JFB the torque limiter is another approach, and a cable or chain would be another.
Old Mar 15, 2013 | 11:12 PM
  #9  
RAMBOW's Avatar
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Would these be the same for 65-67?
I want one!
Old Mar 16, 2013 | 06:03 AM
  #10  
Chesrown 67 OAI's Avatar
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Originally Posted by covertolds
I've been wanting to do a solid mount on the drivers side for some time. I finally bit the bullet and designed and built my own. My car has a 455 with what appears to be small block mounts and frame pads. The OE style mount has part #2261 on it.

I bought a new mount at O'Reilly for the tidy sum of $3.29 and used it to fab up a jig to give me the proper mounting holes and angles needed. I made a few different mounts making changes until I came up with one I liked.

Jig


Jig with stock mount


The mount I made has 3/8" mild steel for the engine mount side and 1/4" mild steel for the angled pieces going to the frame pad.

Tacked together


I'm fortunate enough to have access to a Bridgeport mill so all pieces were created with it.

TIG weld before paint.


Painted and ready for install.






Installed


Looks Great -- These look exactly like the ones "Smitty" at M&J Proformance makes and sells. I've been using the "Smitty" mounts on both sides with no vibration issues at all.
Old Mar 16, 2013 | 09:45 AM
  #11  
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From: Northern VA
Nice work, though as a structural engineer I would recommend a small web tying the two tabs to the mounting plate to avoid any fore-aft flexing and potential weld cracking. I'm assuming your car was originally an SBO, thus the 2261s in a 1972.

As for why only one, only the driver's side is in tension when accelerating. The passenger side rarely fails.
Old Mar 16, 2013 | 07:07 PM
  #12  
pcard's Avatar
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From: Bermuda
Pretty work. I can't wait to get my titanium 3D printer.
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