unreal_w30

Hello All,

I am new to this forum and have a question regarding the fitting on the w-30 manifold that I have pictured. What is it and where shouldit connect? Are these parts still available to buy? I bought a w-30 clone and it has a rubber hose clamp connected and then a pipe fitting bolt is clamp connected to block of the opposing end. I found it threaded into the spacing between the a/c and the valve cover.




I have been restoring GTO's for years and wanted to replace the Cutlass Convertible I had in college. I bought this cloned w-30 from a dealer and figured I could make it into as pure of a restoration as possible.

The picture of the manifold is from the internent and thank you for whomever posted it. The picture of the car is of the one I recently bought to start the restoration.

Thanks for any and all the help,

Gene

unreal_w30

Hello All,

I am new to this forum and have a question regarding the fitting on the w-30 manifold that I have pictured. What is it and where shouldit connect? Are these parts still available to buy? I bought a w-30 clone and it has a rubber hose clamp connected and then a pipe fitting bolt is clamp connected to block of the opposing end. I found it threaded into the spacing between the a/c and the valve cover.

I have been restoring GTO's for years and wanted to replace the Cutlass Convertible I had in college. I bought this cloned w-30 from a dealer and figured I could make it into as pure of a restoration as possible.

The picture of the manifold I found on the internet and thanks to whomever posted it. The picture of the car is the cutlass clone I recently purchased to restore.

Thanks for any and all help,

Gene
1965 Pontiac LeMans
1966 Corvette Cnv 427/425
1969 Z/28 RS Dz302
1970 442 w-30 Clone
1971 Cutlass Supreme Cnv

joe_padavano

Welcome. The fitting is the PCV valve. The manifold has a nipple. The rubber elbow is available repro. The PCV valve is a normal PCV valve. Real W-30s used breathers from both valve covers to the air cleaner housing. The PCV was moved to the intake to make room for the second breather. Note that this is NOT a vacuum port. It is actually in the flat part of the manifold between the runners and is a port into the lifter valley.


Well, just so we're clear, the purest restoration would involve removing the added "W-30" parts and RESTORING the car to the Cutlass that it is. If you mean you want to build the best CLONE possible, then you need to get a factory service manual and an assembly manual to see where everything goes.

joe_padavano

I merged your two identical threads.

stevengerard

Did you buy a 442 cloned as a W30 or a Cutlass that has been cloned to look like a 442 as well? Looks like a nice car, what year is it, looks like a '70.

TripDeuces

Just a question regarding this thread. I've seen the bottom of these intakes and there are no baffles where the nipple goes through. Those of you who have experience with these, does oil get pulled from the valley area into the PCV? Reason I ask is I have aftermarket valve covers and need to route a PCV. I'm not sure I want to open up the hole in the valve cover so looking for other options and opinions.
I know I can go with one off the oil fill tube also but wondering about oil there too. Just want some ideas and what has worked for others.

stevengerard

I have not noticed it, but I do have oil building up on the manifold, I am assuming its from the valve cover gasket and not the PVC though

unreal_w30

Joe and Steve,

Thanks for the replies. You're right, to really do a pure resto on this 1970 Cutlass the w-30 and 442 badges need to come off. However, whomever started this clone job did a half way decent job. Although it is a 342 car, it does have most of the equipment to look real from 10 feet with the hood raised. The engine is a 1970 F code with F heads and the w-455 Oldsmobile intake. Aside from the aftermarket HEI and MSD, the car has mostly stock parts. It is a 4 speed and has a 12 bolt traction control rear end. I basically bought it for the motor knowing if need be I could rebadge it and have a very strong and nice looking Cutlass with a w-25 hood.

The PCV threw me at the first long review of what I was going to need to start replacing/renewing. I bought an assembly manual and the Motor assembly manual and they should arrive next week. Is the correct PCV valve nipple a screw in or is it a press fit with a grommet?

Thanks for the help again,

Gene

joe_padavano

The nipple is a simple metal-to-metal press fit into the manifold.

stevengerard

not many 4 speed convertibles out there either, sounds like you got yourself a nice car. The great thing about having a clone is you have more freedom to do what you want with it.

unreal_w30

Thanks for the answer Joe!

Steven,

The second greatest thing about a clone is I can drive it and not have to worry about losing something really rare if it gets stolen or crashed into. It will make me happy tooling around in it with minimum concern. You're right about having some freedom as well.

I appreciate your comments guys.

Octania

The PCV passage thru the intake is via a boss adjacent to the fuel/air passage. As Joe said, it does not connect to engine vacuum, but to the crankcase.

This is one of my '69 H/O replica intake boss/ nipples. Yours will be like this only better.

9031_69-HO1_C4Boss.jpg

11355-349_C01BossJ-Sm.jpg

Here's the boss and nipple of an FX intake
5065_70-W30_Intake_CN21-OLDSMOBILE-W455.jpg

90 degree rubber fitting on that, PCV into that, rubber hose from other end of PCV to the appropriate PCV nipple at the base of the carb, front RH side. Voila'.

PS I like your name, the car is, quite literally, un-real.

Close pic of your heads' "F"? [I also convert heads to F or D or whatnot]
When I do that I usually also stamp an RS ID such as "RS11355" or similar on the front of the RH head [each head], and a close inspection will reveal that the F is not real.

unreal_w30

Dear Octania,

Thanks for the photos an explanation. As soon as it warms up I'll get more pics of the car and motor. I'm thinking the heads are possibly counterfeit F heads but am not sure. will get photo and let you give your thoughts. I'm looking forward to taking this one apart and then putting it back together with the right stuff. I've never done an Oldsmobile so I am learning as I go. Did the head code type on the 455 make that much of a difference? From most of the tech info I've read it seems as though it might only affect 10-20 hp in the rating.

Gene

stevengerard

Those horse power ratings are garbage, the F-heads had larger valves, there was a much larger difference in a standard 442 engine in 1970 and a W30 manual trans engine then that stated 5 HP (365 hp - 370)

Many of the W30 items were the same as other 455 engines, heck the manifold was the same exact design, just made out of aluminum, it saved 40 lbs though.

joe_padavano

Amen.

Isn't anyone suspicious that the 370 HP rating, with the 3700 lb curb weight, exactly met GM's 10 lb/HP corporate mandate? How about how a Toro 455 with a less radical cam, E heads, and more restrictive intake and exhaust, made 400 HP? If this were true, why not just drop the Toro motor into the W-30 instead of developing a different motor?