I get the bimetallic coil is heated be volts instead of manifold heat, but I'm trying to figure out whether more coils or fewer coils will hold the choke closed for longer during warm up.

My mechanic says says stiffer (fewer windings) choke coils speed warm ups by holding choke closed longer. Or is it that more coil windings unwind slower and hold choke closed longer?

Just trying to figure out how to get easy starts and warm ups. Thanks I advance for any guidance you can provide. I've got chokes from 5-9 windings, just trying to figure out which to test next.

 

I'd just run a manual choke. That way you KNOW when the choke is off.

- Eric

 

I guess it's the length of the coil that is significant. So fewer windings means a shorter piece of bimetal and less expansion.

But usually there are different holes where the coil attaches to the choke flap to change richness of mixture. Never heard that this coil is shortened or so.

 

X2

Every electric choke I had would stick and keep a high idle. Replaced mine with manual chokes.

 

How does one determine the need for an electric choke?

I am not planning on using my car in very cold weather - so does that make it superfluous?

Lots of great info here on how to install:

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ke-wiring.html

But nothing anywhere on how to decide if it is a good idea for standard setup... I am not really interested in more wires in the engine compartment if what it gets me is really minimal.

Seem to be readily available on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ELECTRIC-CHO...35009846?14874

 

One of the top causes of sticking fast idles is lubing the carb mechanism. The fast idle cam and its pivot should never be lubed as it attracts dirt and solidifies with age. It took almost 20 years for me to figger that one out.............

 

So does that mean if I keep things clean (and lube free) I don't need an electric choke?

 

I have a small holly with electric choke it works as intended i suppose but it comes on when not needed if you shut off and restart choke will come on with fast idle wasting fuel until the coil warms again. Ive adjusted it out but then doesn't work when needed ,, Only fix would be to have a switch controlling the choke at that point might as well have a manual choke and be able to control the amount

 

The electric choke was created as a way of making the choke opening a little bit more predictable as part of newer emission control standards. Instead of relying on exhaust gasses flowing through the crossover (directed by the heat riser valve, which always rusts up after a while), it relies on the heating characteristics of an electric element.

Unless you have your crossover blocked, it is unlikely you will notice any difference between an electric choke and a properly-functioning exhaust-heated choke.

Is there a particular problem you are trying to correct?

- Eric

 

That is a good way of putting it. And very helpful information.

Perhaps I could have phrased it better as something like:

"my mechanic suggests that I put in an electric choke - instead of ordering a new choke tube assembly, gasket, and choke tubes - as he suggests that the stock setup of choke tubes do nothing for the first 8 minutes that the car is not warm - and (presumably) an electric choke will."

Will replacing the aforementioned choke tube parts (see attached image) prevent me from having the crossover blocked, or is that something else?

If it is unlikely I will notice any difference between an electric choke and a properly-functioning exhaust-heated choke, then it is indeed not something I need.

I am in the process of refreshing the engine (see: https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...nvertible.html) and new options keep coming up. But that is part of the fun of the process.

 

I run electric chokes on many of my cars and have never had a problem with them sticking. Of course, I've never had a problem with a hot air choke, either. The GM electric choke coils are all the same as far as I can tell. The adjustment is made by rotating the black choke coil cover in the housing, just as it's made for the hot air choke. When properly set up and kept clean, any automatic choke works fine for me. I've never seen the attraction of a manual choke. People instinctively leave them on too long, wasting fuel and building carbon in the chambers and on the plugs. Do you all want to go back to hand crank starters as well?

 

I have an electric choke as well and it works just fine. Though IRC my crossover was filled on the manifold

 

Okay. That's a good reason.
I'd see which set of parts was cheaper and use that.

I would suggest otherwise.

True, if your heat riser valve is stuck, the choke will take a bit longer to heat up, especially in very cold weather, but in the weather in which most of us drive these cars, I doubt you could detect a difference.

Blocking the crossover is a hot rod modification to improve exhaust airflow. In theory, you should know if yours is blocked, because you'd have told your engine builder to.block it.


Well, maybe some people do, but I've always slammed the **** in as soon as I could and driven with a balky engine for a few blocks.

- Eric

 

Not only would he be wrong, but he can very easily be proven wrong. Every hot air choke car that I've had will have the choke fully open on the coldest morning in less than eight minutes. Simply time the choke opening from a cold start to prove it.

Yes, since the crossover is the source of heat for the hot air choke. Blocking the crossover does two things, however. Filling the crossover ports in the heads improves exhaust flow, as Eric noted. Blocking hot air from passing under the carb provides a cooler, denser mixture for slightly more power. This isn't something you'll feel on the street, but it might be worth a tenth or two in the quarter.

It's unlikely.

And that's not the best thing for the engine, either, but if you really want that, you can adjust your automatic choke to open too early also.

 

My recent 455 build has an electric choke, as really no other option on an Eldelbrock Performer intake manifold, and works fine. Has a solid state relay wired inline to regulate it, and is adjustible, just like the OEM hot air choke. At first I freaked having to do this, but really no big deal.

 

Thanks for the info in this thread!
I am about to set mine up as well! Very timely!

I was used to the manual choke I had before...
(also anti theft device! How many young punks actually know how to start a car with one!)

 

Good point.

That and a misaligned neutral safety switch would keep most thieves busy for hours looking for the kill switch.

- Eric

 

Nobody here understands that they have to turn the key towards the lock to unlock, or that the carb has to be primed before it will start. I am more worried about people reversing into my car or opening doors into it.

As for choke, mine works just fine in this weather, and it's a daily driver in sub-zero (celcius) degrees. Automatic choke.