Hello all!
I'm staring at my disassembled engine from a 66 Delta 88, and I see this on eBay-

http://www.ebay.com/itm/olds-aluminu...ht_3225wt_1110

Those numbers baffle me, so from an inquiring mind, are those heads any good? I plan to make my engine get a slight boost, nothing tire-melting. Also, if you fancy, what would I require on the bottom end to get for my intend build?

 

I can't answer your question. But I like your username. At least I can pronounce it, something that can't be said for about half the names people choose on here.

Welcome to classicoldsmobile.

 

Yes welcome.
Those are procomp heads/intake, they're fine.
As far as the rest of your build goes, money, time and experience may determine what you do there.

 

Those heads and manifolds are good I would imagine but not needed for your build just to warm things up. Its easier to use factory parts cause everything bolts up the way it should and it is usually less expensive.

 

A high quality stock type rebuild with a sllightly "warmer" camshaft and better exhaust will probably do what you want, look stock, and cost a lot less than using hard-core race parts.

 

What makes you think those parts won't bolt right up like stock? No reason why they shouldn't.
Maybe he doesn't want the stock look and is looking for a bolt on upgrade like the Chevy and ford boys have enjoyed for years.
Let him decide.

Jmo

 

The parts will bolt up fine onto the engine but then the fun begins trying to get exhaust bolted up and manifolds, accessory bracketry like alternator, power steering AC etc may need modification. Taller intakes sometimes require different air breathers. Sometimes taller valve covers are needed and you are back to bracket problems. Linkages sometimes need modification and it goes on. While I have no experience with this particular setup I can guess with some assuredy that things of this nature will arise.

I never told him what he should do, only gave an opinion and is that not what he asked for?

 

Thanks for the replies and welcome, gentlemen.
Since it'll be my first build (with the help of my trusty mango-shade mechanic), and the numbers aren't still registering on this aging mind, i guess I'll stick this time with the 'warmer' camshaft Run to Rund suggested, and go stock as much as possible. Now, if I grew hair after a successful build, I'll get that 1970 442 that's been offered to me here (in Manila!) and go gung-ho ape s**t on the head and bottom end. hahaha!

On the camshaft note, is this what I should get?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMP-OLDSMOB...#ht_2940wt_947

Jaunty, thanks. I was collecting, and playing, guitar and bass amps before hence the name. Half are sold to finance this new illness.

 

Yes he did, but then you said maybe this will or will not bolt up, you might have this or might have that. But then you say well you're not really sure cuz you've never done it.
Maybe you should have mentioned that to begin with that's all.

Best of luck in your project.

 

one aspect to consider is the cost of rebuilding the factory heads, by the time you have hardened exhaust seats installed along with guides, springs, valves etc you may be just as well off buying the aluminum heads. that and they'll flow better and help inhibit detonation...

 

x2

 

Cool. My wife is from Olongapo on Subic bay. I've been through Manila 8 times. I always hired a driver to meet us at the airport as the traffic and crazyness on the roads in Manila is a little much for me. To say the least. No stop lights to speak of with everyone jockying for the next move etc. Once again. New York city is easy compared to that.
Anyways, good luck with your build, and I hope you can find some open road to cruise on.
I once saw a 70 Chevelle in Olongapo. Very nice triple black. It looked large compared to all the other cars.

 

Hey Valve: One of the first things you must do is, determine if your cam bank angel is 39 degrees or 45 degrees. This will save you time and trouble. You wouldn't want to order the wrong camshaft.

 

That size cam is good but you should have 45 degree lifter angle in a 66 D block, not the late 39 degree. Comp can grind you whatever you want for a price similar to their shelf items. The XE series has quick ramps so might be a bit noisier than stock and definitely use Comp 159 oil additive on break in, along with oil having a lot of ZDDP in it all the time (true for any flat tappet cam these days).

 

A few little birdies (Nickens Racing Engines, Faerman Racing Engines, DaVinci Carburetors, Mondello, and Engle Cams) told me that Valvoline VR1 Racing oil is all that is needed for break in and beyond. It has a high ZDDP content, high enough that additives aren't needed. It's not cheap, but in the long run it will save you headache, and maybe a cam. I broke my engine in on it (20W50 Fossil oil) and changed to VR1 synthetic 10W30 on the first oil change. So far so good.

Steve

 

Valve,

Lots of engine build threads in the big block forum. Cruise thru those and that will give you and idea of what others have done. Also check out major builds, etc.

 

My favorite moderate power build is as follows...just to give you an idea.

455 block
E heads w/ hardened seats, new valves, new springs
KB ICON 886 pistons (or KB cast pistons if you want it to be more of a cruiser)
Engle cam .496/.512 lift 226/230 duration @ .050" 110 degree lobe separation
Adjustable roller tip rocker arms
Stock intake or Edelbrock performer aluminum
Edelbrock performer 750 cfm carburetor

This is a decent balance of budget and power. Most of what you'll spend will be on machine work. The pistons are about $350 for cast, and the cam and lifters are a couple hundred. The rockers will cost a little bit but they are 1000 times better than the worn out stock ones. In any case, good luck on your build! If you have any questions feel free to ask!

Steve

 

Now that put me back on the fence.


ah64pilot, Thanks for the list. I'm so new at this, that I am putting your list on excel so I could have a spreadsheet to compare things on. haha!


citcapp, thanks. I've read numerous thread on build threads, but I'm so mersmerized that, truthfully, I have not read the text. I just looked at the pictures.


ziff396, that's 100kms away from me! Cool! If you're coming over, pm me and let's grab a beer! Would love to hear from you! And yes, you're right about the traffic. It's a f**kin' mess. And I have to live with that everyday. Gives me a high threshold for incompetence. haha!

 

yeah, nothing is cheap anymore... i don't know what it would cost to do a set of stock heads but i'd be surprised if it was less than $500 a piece...

bernard mondello is also offering these heads at a good price with good name brand parts installed.