anyone have any experience on using the adjustable rocker kit from comp cams. All feedback welcome.

Im thinking my plan is too install at zero lash plus 3/4 turn on cold static setup, then with 1 hour plus run time in the motor stand i plan to readjust at idle to 1/2 turn beyond zero lash.

 

Sounds like a plan if you have a flat tappet cam. By the time the cam lube wears off it'll probably be close to a 1/2 turn anyway.

 

i used the prw kit and it came standard with the posi locks. but all the other pieces where comp cams for my set up . I think i also saved a few bucks lol. i save 24 dollars compared to the comp kit from summit i found my recipts.

 

The kit is OK except:

1. The lock nuts are junk. Replace with good poly locks

2. The pushrods may not be right, especially if you milled the block/heads

I have run them in my 455s with no issue.

 

Thats funny cause the shop that did my machine work and assembled my rotating assembly, is who i bought my comp cam parts thru, cause he beat summit pricing, also said the same thing and gave me a set of poly locks to go with the set cause he didnt like the ones that came from comp. question is will they fit under a stock set of 69 hurst chrome covers ?

 

Yes, they do. I have a set of chrome valve covers on my 442.

 

I have used them on several build to 5500 rpm and mid 12s (small blocks) with no issues. Agree about the poly locks, my pushrods were right on, but I have heard that others had issues. If you need new ones, make sure they are hardened.

 

I believe these were for ac brackets ?? if so did non ac cars still have the studs or were thay bolts.

 

The non-AC engine still had at least one stand-off stud,on the driver's side,for the heat shroud.I have also seen the more common engines have all 3 studs,since the engine was assembled before having a designated car to go into,so the workers would not know if it was going into an AC car or not.

As for the roller tip rocker kit.It can work pretty good,but the pushrods in the kit are almost never correct.You usually need longer ones.They supply a stock length,and you might need something like a 9.90" instead.

 

I tried these on my 71 SX a few years ago and noticed the engine sounded like a sewing machine, with a light ticking sound. I tightened them down a little at a time to get rid of the noise to no avail and ended up slightly bending 2 pushrods, so off they came. What was the trouble and does anyone else notice this increased noise? Thanks

 

i've run them and had good luck with them... i wish they came with oil restricted pushrods tho

 

RocketBrian,
Common problem I witnessed in the 1990's.bending pushrods & breaking the rocker studs.Usually had to do with incorrect pushrod length.The kit comes with stock length,which are too short,and already puts things at an undesireable angle.Trying to tighten them down makes the angle worse,and starts to put the geometry in a bind,letting the weakest piece go first.