455 stroker in a 65 cutlass

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Old Nov 20, 2011 | 11:11 AM
  #1  
Wilson's Avatar
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Need some guidance.

My mechanically knowledgeable buddy and I are building a 455 stroker to put in my '65 F85. Can anybody recommend an oil pump and pan? Wilson
Old Nov 20, 2011 | 12:37 PM
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http://v8tvshow.com/images/stories/v...gineBuild9.jpg

good luck this is a good set of video's that btr did for v 8 tv s-71 Sorry that didn work out as plannned let me try again. nope you should be able to get it v-8 tv.com .

Last edited by firefrost gold; Nov 20, 2011 at 12:42 PM.
Old Nov 20, 2011 | 01:54 PM
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Be careful in your pan selection. I purchased a 1964 Cutlass project car and the previous owner put a Toronado pan on the 455 it came with. The Toro pan hangs down at least an inch below the crossmember. So any speed bump or other object in the road will hit the bottom of the pan before the crossmember. You may need to go with a stock pan, and use the factory style drain plug for 1965. John
Old Nov 21, 2011 | 04:23 AM
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455 stroker in a 65 cutlass

I am building a 455 stroker to put in a '65 F85/cutlass. For anyone who has done this; can you tell me what you did for an oil pump and pan that worked well? Thanks, Wilson
Old Nov 21, 2011 | 07:16 AM
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I merged your two identical questions. Good luck with your build.
Old Nov 21, 2011 | 03:16 PM
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Maybe the engine sits lower in 65 than 66?? In a 66, the Toro pan will be flush with the bottom of the cross member; aftermarket 7 qt are the same depth with a 9x9" sump instead of the 7x9" that Olds used. I'd go with 7 or 8 qt., Melling 22HV pump and bolt-on pickup, check clearance of the pickup to bottom of the pan. It should be about 3/8". Here is a complication: you won't be able to install the engine with trans because the front corners of the 9x9" sump will hit the crossmember while angling the assembly into the engine compartment. It will be OK when installed; put in the trans spearately, or cut the sump front bottom corners and weld in patches at about 45 deg. angles.
Old Nov 21, 2011 | 04:54 PM
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Thanks for the info

Run to Rund, Thanks for your informative reply. Since it sounds like you have done this before; how about headers that will work in this application? Wilson
Old Nov 21, 2011 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Wilson
Run to Rund, Thanks for your informative reply. Since it sounds like you have done this before; how about headers that will work in this application? Wilson
With a stroker I'd do 2" for sure, so whatever you can find to fit get them as big as you can.

Jmo.
Old Nov 21, 2011 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Wilson
My mechanically knowledgeable buddy and I are building a 455 stroker to put in my '65 F85. Can anybody recommend an oil pump and pan? Wilson
you should contact John at Rocketracing.com

he runs a stroked 455 in a 65 and almost stands it on the bumper on every pass - he'd be able to set ya in the right direction regarding that
body / chassis year.
Old Nov 21, 2011 | 07:28 PM
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Run to Rund, it does hang lower. I haven't got the 400 engine in my 1965 442 yet. But I've got a 1965 parts car and the bottom of the 330 pan is level with the cross member. The oil drain plug looks kinda like a large allen screw that a ratchet will fit into. A normal drain plug would have the hex head hanging below the crossmember. Not what you want to scrape off going over a speedbump!

Wilson, a couple other sources for information on 1965's would be:

http://www.442bro.com/

http://ultra-hi-comp.proboards.com/index.cgi?

Good luck on your project. John
Old Nov 22, 2011 | 04:52 AM
  #11  
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If you're buildingh a stroker,or anything that is going to make power,I wouldn't bother with the Toro pan.You need to get the pan away from the crank,not closer to it.You could even run the stock 455 oil pan,and a melling pump.There are a few BTR 496's running low 10's like that.One is only 4 miles from my house.No issues with that set-up.I run the Milodon pan,Melling pump,and the matching Milodon pickup,in my 72.The sump is about 1/2" lower than the crossmember,if that much.I also did another car with the Moroso pan,and the sump is above the crossmember,so that might be the better choice for you.I think ones has an 8 1/4" deep sump,and the other has an 8 1/2" deep sump.Something like that.One is 7qt,and the other is 8qt,if I remember correctly.
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