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Check out Rocket Racing... https://shop.rocketracingshop.com/Headers_c79.htm
He carries ARH which are not cheap but highly recommended by many on this site. And if you go with the Hedman or Hookers, John is way cheaper.
Last edited by 75 W-30 H/O; Aug 13, 2021 at 10:50 PM.
i have those on my 69. They fit very well, went into the car without much drama. I did relocate the brake distribution block on top of the frame for a little more clearance.
Don’t waste your money on ARH’s for your build, not justified. Yes they look nice etc but properly done, a set of coated Hookers or similar will last a long time as well.
BTR says he only buys stainless headers, since those last and don't rust out. Not that he would ever endorse low priced headers. The quality of those looks to be nice and better than some priced 5 times more, according to one source. These seem to be copies of a Hooker design/model, just done in stainless. Good is subjective, as in good looking, good performance, good value. You decide...
I have 2 cars with headers on them. One is the old Kooks headers which work good other one is with the under $200 stainless. Neither required more than one ding to fit around steering shaft.. The under $200 fit better than a few of my past with hookers or casler headers.
Last edited by 66SportCoupe; Aug 17, 2021 at 04:07 PM.
Back when I was 16 I bought an old set of Hedmans at a swap meet for $50. Slapped them on and went from 15.0s to 14.60s in the 1/4 mile. To this day that was the cheapest gain I've ever made.
If you’ve got a 68 four speed with front discs it also means relocating the distribution block.
I’ll stick with my manifolds.
Not trying to change your mind, but when I moved my brake block I didn’t even disconnect the lines. Just unbolt it from the inside frame and manhandle it to the top of the frame. I even found a hole to bolt the bracket down to. Now that I think of it I believe the hole is used for the z-bar or something for a manual transmission car so that probably wouldn’t work for you.
That’s 30 pounds PEAK, factor in the gains in the total curve it’s a even bigger difference.
Many years ago, I had a 87 442 that I swapped in a stock 70 2 barrel 350. I had installed a Performer manifold and a Q-Jet. While it ran ok, it wasn’t much stronger than the 307 that came out.
The first year I had the car, I did Power Tour. This was probably 1999-2000. They had a chassis dyno, so I had to put the car on it. It made 180ish hp, nothing impressive.
Later on, I installed early A body exhaust manifolds and a true dual exhaust system. Night and day difference in performance! Between my snd my friends carefully calibrated “butt-o-meter” we all figured at least 40-50hp improvement between the factory G body and new exhaust.
I did power tour again, and once again had to dyno the car. There was only about 20 hp improvement, which really shocked me. It wasn’t until I got home and compared the dyno sheets that the difference was obvious. There was only 20 peak improvement , but there were places lower in the power curves where there was 40-50 numbers better, and there were improvements EVERYWHERE in the curve.
A little improvement in peak numbers is nice, but a little improvement everywhere really helps the overall average, and that’s what you will really feel.
Is there an answer for the $200 Ebay headers? Are they any good, they have had many, many sales. Or is there another SS header that is in the $200 price range that someone would recommend?
Steve
Is there an answer for the $200 Ebay headers? Are they any good, they have had many, many sales. Or is there another SS header that is in the $200 price range that someone would recommend?
Steve
These are the ones I bought a few years ago, and they seem nice, and only $152, including shipping.
I gotta say I bought the cheap stainless headers off eBay and so far they’ve been great . Nice thick flanges been on there almost 5 years and no leaks . They do hang a bit low but my 72 350 cutlass has plenty of clearance .
I gotta say I bought the cheap stainless headers off eBay and so far they’ve been great . Nice thick flanges been on there almost 5 years and no leaks . They do hang a bit low but my 72 350 cutlass has plenty of clearance .
455 headers on a 350 will hang lower, but that's good getting any exhaust heat away from the starters.
In the photo the trans cooler lines look like they are touching or very close to the header tubes. That can cause high trans fluid temps. You may want to reroute the cooler lines to protect your trans.
Wow! Can't believe an under $200 set of stainless headers are actually good!
Mine has long tubes on it, but am not sure the brand.
They are pretty ugly, but functional.
They are also a very tight fit.
Once I get some other things fixed up on my car, I might give these a shot.
Wow! Can't believe an under $200 set of stainless headers are actually good!
Mine has long tubes on it, but am not sure the brand.
They are pretty ugly, but functional.
They are also a very tight fit.
Once I get some other things fixed up on my car, I might give these a shot.
They make some nice wall art as well. We are in inflationary times and supplies on things are questionable, including shortages on stainless steel. So I wouldn't wait to long to get them. It's like I recently noticed Sonnax billet servos might be fading out on Ebay (out of stock) and Jegs said they just had one, so I bought one a week ago, just in case from Summit. Summit claims to have more than 10 of them. Later things might be gone, or a lot higher in price.
