Water in cylinder after intake swap

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Dec 30, 2018 | 02:24 PM
  #1  
Moldsmobile98's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 21
Water in cylinder after intake swap

Hey guys,
​​​​l just replaced my stock '74 455 stock intake with an Edelbrock torker. This is in a '55 Nighty-Eight. After putting it back together I tried to start but cylinder #7 was full of water. After doing a Yosemite Sam type rant I calmed down and am ready to start over. This was my first attempt at an intake replacement on a V-8 so not suprising that I flubbed. I would like to avoid my mistake this time.
Any tips moving forward. I didn't use the galley pan, should I?
I did use two end rubber seals which I had trouble getting the intake to seat down far enough to get the seald to be tight. Seems like folks think it's better just to use rtv here.

I also realize I've never had water in this engine. Could it be a cracked head?

Last edited by Moldsmobile98; Dec 30, 2018 at 06:13 PM. Reason: Additional thought
Old Dec 30, 2018 | 03:26 PM
  #2  
442Harv's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,738
From: Tracy Ca
You need to drain the block first, so you don't get water in the cylinders. Wipe the cylinders dry, rotate motor, rewipe them. Drain the oil, and then you should be good to go. Not sure why you did not use the valley tray. Olds made it that way, and works pretty good.
Old Dec 30, 2018 | 03:33 PM
  #3  
oldcutlass's Avatar
Administrator
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 42,521
From: Poteau, Ok
Originally Posted by Moldsmobile98
...I did use two end rubber seals which I had trouble getting the intake to seat down far enough to get the seald to be tight. Seems like folks think it's better just to use rtv here.
As does Edelbrock, the installation instructions state not to use the rubber end seals and to use RTV instead.

Old Dec 30, 2018 | 03:38 PM
  #4  
OLDSter Ralph's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 5,220
From: St. Paul Minnesota
It wouldn't hurt to check the manifold with a straight edge. Dry fit the manifold to see how it fits using feeler gages. RTV around the water passages might be good also.
Old Dec 30, 2018 | 04:00 PM
  #5  
cutlassefi's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 8,505
From: Central Fl
Then after you remove the intake to fix the water problem, pitch it and put a Performer on it instead. You couldn’t have picked a worse intake for your application.
Old Dec 30, 2018 | 05:53 PM
  #6  
sysmg's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 472
Originally Posted by cutlassefi
Then after you remove the intake to fix the water problem, pitch it and put a Performer on it instead. You couldn’t have picked a worse intake for your application.
Totally agree. Torkers are for high RPM applications. Perhaps if you had 4.11 gears and a high stall converter, with roller cam/lifter/rockers, ported heads, HD valve springs on a light vehicle and alway drag raced. Or you raced the ovals. Otherwise a performer would be a better fit.

Old Dec 31, 2018 | 08:59 PM
  #7  
Moldsmobile98's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 21
Thanks to everyone for the responses, I've learned tons already. I pulled the intake and it looks like a good deal was made everywhere. This engine hasn't run in 20 years. The guy I bought it from said it "ran good when pulled". I'm now suspecting head gasket or crcaked head.
I was oblivious to the different types of intakes. I enjoy the learning from these projects. Some lessons are more fun than others......or expensive!
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Guns
Big Blocks
8
Sep 12, 2017 03:58 PM
Bfg
General Questions
15
Apr 4, 2016 05:35 AM
olds330
Big Blocks
39
Nov 29, 2014 06:40 AM
projectheaven
Small Blocks
1
Jul 9, 2011 10:46 PM
projectheaven
Small Blocks
4
Jun 29, 2011 09:02 PM




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:54 AM.