Ok, I have the turkey tray for my 65 400 motor but seem a bit confused to where to put and not put the sealant. I have read numerous posts on this subject enough to make my head spin. I want to clarify that I'm correct to put Rtv at the front and rear of the intake and not to use the rubber gaskets. Do I just put Rtv around the water ports and nothing on the intake or exhaust ports. What about the bolts? Thanks for being patient I'm a little dense at some times!

 

Dry test fit first, to get it to behave and sit in place right. Get the piercings to sit in their holes and hold it still.

I prefer to use Permatex 3H around the intake ports over "nothing"

molecular thin coat of RTV at water passages, you do not want it squeezed out into a string that will break off.

The bolts do not go into water jacket and require a light coat of oil to be drawn down properly at the specified torque.

 

You could stop reading posts and just crack open the Chassis Service Manual, which tells you exactly where to put the sealer. The factory says to put sealer on both sides of the gasket, around all the ports.

 

Joe, I have read the CSM and was going to do just as is describes but got confused when I started to read all the other posts about not sealing the intake ports. Makes me wonder if everyone is on the right page? I really respect your knowledge, thank you!

 

Not seal the intake ports?

Ask yourself, how many times do you want to pull the intake and re-do it?

 

Removing mine for the third tonight. Can not stop the leak

 

Misalignment between the heads and intake.

You do know how to check this, yes?

 

Use 2 to 4 lengths of threaded rod as guides at 2 or 4 corners to assist lowering the intake to the right spot the first time or you will likely wrestle with the beast.

 

I'm confused. The intake bolts are angled towards each other. Geometry would suggest that this would bind up as you lowered the intake.

 

How about one threaded rod at the one slitted bolt "hole" whose purpose is to establish the fore-aft alignment of the intake? Just aft of the #3 runner?

As for how to check for alignment problems, I have some ideas involving feelers or whatnot, but would love to hear others' suggestions. I have never had a problem except the time I failed to use the proper sealant on the water passages of an aluminum intake.

 

Common sense should dictate not to use 6 inchers. Just tall enough to grip when the intake is down...for removal. With a helper I've used a thin long screwdriver(s) for coarse alignment. Ill not spoon feed this idea...the audience will need to figure it out. I've used both methods before, but could have been as Octania explains on the wide Olds intakes with one stud. Though I know Ive used two if the old memory is working. Haven't done an Olds in 10 years. I work on all makes and have used various similar methods to guide intakes down if they are inaccessible or heavy etc...

 

The motor is out and on an engine stand. I think I'll be alright to lower it.

 

I don't know, man, why risk it?
Put all 12 them sumbitches in there

:-)

 

I don't know, man, why risk it?
Put all 12 them sumbitches in there

Of course you still have the left/right alignment to worry about.

:-)

 

Been there done that.

See how well it fits against the head and intake

clean surface of head and intake squeeky clean with acetone.

Take some red plastigage to start with


and put a small strip at the top and bottom of each port.

put in intake dry(not gasket, etc) and torgue to sec.

Pull off intake and look at crush at each port..

found my intake was way off and had to get another...

even so get the intake magnafluxed to make it is not cracked and head side milled straight..

would not seal without doing this..

I like ultra blue for water ports and ends with no rubber seals, and high tack for fuel ports and a composite gasket like SCE.

Good luck

 

Dam good advice Stanley!