My water pump has started to make periodic clicking sounds.

When I grab the fan I can move the pump shaft up and down slightly more than a 1/16" . Should this shaft be solid, free from any travel?
The water pump is not weeping coolant.

 

"He says he's not dead yet."

"He will be soon."


First, if this car has a clutch fan, be sure it's the water pump shaft that's moving and not the clutch. If it IS the shaft, do not drive it until you replace the pump. There should be no movement. If yours really has that much movement, the bearings are shot and the seal is being chewed up every time the engine is running.

 

I thought so... Will measure it to ensure the proper replacement.

What was the proper color from the factory? Bronze like the engine block? The one on the engine now is painted gold??

 

The pump was bolted to the engine and painted at the same time as the engine, with the same color.

 

Joe, you were correct. I removed the fan blades, was able to get better look at weep hole and sure enough it started weeping.

I measured the length & it is the 5.072" which is correct because my car is No AC

Additional questions;

The casting numbers on the water pump do not match any original equipment numbers. I like to stick with cast iron closest to OEM - any recommendations on brand & source of a new water pump?

The car came with old parts as well. One was a thermostat housing that has the male end connecting to water pump via rubber hose. The thermostat housing on the car now has a metal tube & rubber hose connecting to water pump. Which housing is correct?

The rubber hose from water pump to heater core - is that a pre manufactured/bent rubber hose or just generic purchase by the foot hose?
Same question for the hose from heater core to intake manifold
What is the recommended brand that is OEM?

Is the routing of this hose up and around the oil fill neck then to heater core or just on top of valve cover?

 

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