When I put the first 455 in the car I did a pertronix pionts eliminator and flame thrower coil and new car quest cap, rotor, wires and vacuum advance can. I had alot of people say that hei is the way to go, when I put the next motor in i plan on going the hei route, what exactly do I need to do to swap to hei? Are all olds hei distributor the same 260-455? I don't really know alot about hei

 

You want to get one of the older one, before the computer years. You will need to have a full 12 to it to start the car. Can't use the resistor wire that is used now to your starter. Easy swap. Google this swap, and you will probably even find a vidio to look at.

 

Easy swap but I don't see much upside from what you have now. What is the amtter with the current set up?

 

There is nothing wrong with it, everyone just keeps saying the hei is so much better then what I have, so I thought I'd try the hei.

 

Don't listen to "everyone"
It is not any better than the Pertronix and coil you are using.

 

I prefer the HEI over a points replacement for a mild or more performance engine. The timing curve is better, less chance of spark jump, more reliable, and the repair parts are available over the counter.

 

I was happy with the pertronix, i just got a good price on an hei so I thought I'd give it a try, I heard others say it's better, my theory is if I don't like it I'm only out $50 and some time.

 

Is this a chinesium unit for $50? I try and steer clear of those.

 

If it will work on the 455 it will be coming from a 75 350 car. Original GM distributor, guy down the street had a few olds parts at his rummage sale that I'm going to go get

 

Should work well. It needs a keyed 12v, no resistance wire.

 

You will have to change plug wires. I have been 100% satisfied with my Pertronix. The HEI may put out a little hotter spark but I doubt your butt dyno will feel it.

 

Butt dyno lol, I've never heard that before, I like that one

 

hei away with health. get decent pickups and coils and not the advance crap (MSD makes all the parts you need)

But! the plugs need a bit longer of a snout...else the plug will fire early in the voltage curve rise and throw a few things off a little. You will no longer find ac delco so get the <insert brand> equivalent

 

"A bit longer snout" changes the heat range of the plug.

https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-...rk-plug-basics
The major structural difference affecting the heat rating is the length of the insulator nose. A hot-type spark plug has a longer insulator nose. The insulator nose of a hotter spark plug has a longer distance between the firing tip of the insulator, and the point where insulator meets the metal shell. Therefore, the path for the dissipation of heat from the insulator nose to the cylinder head is longer and the firing end stays hotter. The insulator nose of a hotter spark plug also has a greater surface area that is exposed to more of the ignited gases and is easily heated to higher temperatures. A colder spark plug functions in an opposite manner.

 

To each his own.

 

no sir, I do not mean an extended reach (TS), he needs an extended gap (X), or one rather where the electrode ground strap is bent to be natural at .060 or .080 whichever is called for. the air gap, *is* part of the secondary equation...(I know some set gen 1 HEI to .045 or .050 and wonder why the gizmos burn out so quickly...)

like I said, AC delcos wont be found, but it will be in the range of the R4xT(or not T) X or in some cases Z, the heat range, well just use what it came with

 

Mark, I was talking out of the box timing curve. Most people cannot set up a distributor on their own. Reliability compared to the points replacement, imho the hei is more reliable. The most reliable is a points setup.

 

I am not sure if there is any difference in the reliability of the HEI versus points. I put a junkyard HEI in my 72 Cutlass when I bought it 23 years ago. I have not touched it since. That is pretty reliable. Who knows how many miles it had on it when I bought it. This car was my daily driver for several years. I would have bought several sets of point in that time period. I just don't buy that points are more reliable. Just my 2 pennies.

 

the more mechanical parts you have ( ie. points ) the more problems you can have IMO you can't beat a good HEI with a hotter coil and a better module. but the pertronix conversion would most likely have the same reliability.

 

I have had a Pertronix in my boat for 17_18 years with no problems.

 

Oh, when you said "longer snout" that sounded like a longer insulator.

FYI, my engine has the plugs for a 1971 350 with the gap opened up to .045"; been this way since around 1982 and nothing on the HEI has failed. Not sure what failures you have seen but my experience has been very different.

 

HEI's were designed for larger spark plug gaps. Some of the tuneup specs can go to .080 gap starting in 74/75 model years.

 

I can't speak to the Pertronex as I've never had one but I can tell you that the HEI in my 67 Camaro has had it for 15+yrs and I've never had any issues with it. The eng is approx 425 hp 350 alum heads 10:1 Pistons, Edelbrock Rolling Thunder cam/roller lifters&rockers. R45S plugs gapped to .045 and have Never had any problems or needed to replace anything
Just my 2 cents worth

 

Yes, those large gaps were for low compression engines with lean/diluted mixtures and EGR systems. Definitely NOT the spark plug gap needed on MY engine.

 

I helped a family once that had a broken down car in the middle of summer in Phoenix. The were from out of state and very unaccustomed to the heat. They were stranded and suffering. The ignition module in the HEI distributor of their Olds had failed. It was a simple diagnosis to figure it out and even easier to repair.

I have been helping people with vehicles that were broken down due to points issues since I was able to drive.

So, that is only one HEI compared to many points systems over the years. While the HEI may seem more reliable, it cannot be repaired without new parts. It will work all the way to where you need to be rescued from. But a set of points can be cleaned, filed, and adjusted to get you home so you can make complete repairs. If the HEI goes out, yer walkin'!

 

I will disagree with your points assessment as I have run into points that had no contact left to clean or adjust because people neglected to perform a tune up periodically. The biggest headache by far, and the hardest item to troubleshoot (especially if you've never witnessed a failure) has been the condenser. This item will provide days of trouble shooting entertainment (don't ask me how I know)for the rookie. One or the other or both items need to be replaced to go on in most cases. Granted we carried a spare of each (usually a previous part replaced during the last tune up) in our trunk or glove box for long trips. I also used to carry a spare wires, cap, rotor, and a previously used set of 8 spark plugs.

The quality of modules for HEI's has dramatically increased over the years. And yes they are a snap to replace as are points/condenser. Neither system is easy to trouble shoot to a rookie as is demonstrated and proven here at least once a week.

 

LOL! I grew up doing all of the same. Keep all the take-out parts in the trunk after a tune-up, keep everything clean and adjusted between parts replacement, and know what each part failure looks and feels like. My old man had me helping him as soon as I was tall enough to see over the fender. The nicest thing about HEI is that it does not degrade or lose power between tune-ups. It either works, or it doesn't.