So i'm trying to absorb as much info as i can for my upcoming 455 build.
Block is a 1976 FA block.

read a post mentioning that some of these blocks did not have the z-bar stud hole... I have a manual trans car, so immediately went out to the garage to look at my new block and sure enough- its not there, the pad isn't even there.

Is there a bracket or something to mount a z-bar stud on these blocks w/o the provision cast on them, or am i SOL...

Thanks-
Ben

 

Found this...
http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-d...ts-center/sdcb

A relocation bracket for gen V & Gen VI 454's that sometimes did not have the zbar stud either... Appears to use the bellhousing flange bolts to mount to.

I know the BOP bellhousing is different from the chevys... Anyone know if those lower holes would be the same? Would be cool if i could just buy a bracket instead of having to fab one up...

 

Nice find. The bottom two bolts and the dowel pins are the same. The rest are different. The BOP pattern is further inboard at the next two bolts. You could use this bracket and weld a tab to the upper bolt location to pick up the bolt on the BOP pattern. Or, you could use a hydraulic clutch.

Chevy:



BOP:

 

I was at an Olds event 2yrs ago,and there was a guy selling a few 455's.One of them was a smogger 455 without the stud hole,with the brackets & the ball stud still attached.It was really goofy looking,but it was original.I have no idea who that was,or how often you could find stuff like that.

 

Only took me 3 years...

IMG_20130526_165810_053_zps76960045.jpg
IMG_20130526_165800_545_zps15c2a5ad.jpg
IMG_20130526_165804_796_zpsf124dca9.jpg
IMG_20130526_165822_640_zps90642118.jpg

This is my first attempt at the bracket.
While templating, i quickly discovered that the "Chevy" bracket i mentioned 3 years ago, wouldn't work- Because the olds has the starter on the drivers side- the bottom casting flares out another 1/4-1/2" so the bottom hole on that bracket wouldn't work afterall.

I had to pull my 330 and bellhousing out of the car in order to mock this up properly- After I tacked it up on 330, i took it over to a friends house who has a 1966 400 block (which has the hole & pad) on a stand and test fitted it on his to check alignment of the stud hole and discovered that the big casting pad on the 330 is in a different place on the big block- That big pad was tight against my bracket on the 330, but no-where near the bracket on the 400. Wild.

A friend of mine is going to turn down the shoulder on the ballstud so we can shorten it 1/2" to account for the bracket & gap from the block and then weld it to the plate.

anyway- thought this might be of interest.

 

Ben,
Old post but can ypou still show me pictures of your z bar stud bracket. I have encountered the same issue with a 75 455 for a FRIENDS CAR.

ANY HELP GREATLY APPRECIATED.

your old pics dont open anymore

 

The show up for me

 

yes I logged on and they showed up your right

 

Anybody ever have this issue? The Z-Bar is too long to fit.
'72 VC, 455.
Z-Bar is for 70-72, measures 7.75" long.
Z-Bar pivot stud measures 2.41"
The frame bracket seems to be where it belongs.





I am thinking about cutting the tube down and attempting to replicate the bevel on the inside diameter.

 

Excuse me if you know this already. I put the Z bar on the engine stud first, then feed it into the frame bracket. If I remember correctly the threaded part of the Z bar that fits into the frame bracket is flat on the sides to fit into the slot on the frame bracket. I think I thread the star washer and nut on last. I also grease the engine stud and any areas where there is movement. Never had a problem installing the Z bar though it is tight going on the engine stud. Also note, I think the white “washer” inside the Z bar should sit deeper in the Z bar to match the ball stud inserted depth.

Scott

 

I should have also pointed that, fully seated, the ball stud should extend out from the block about 1 3/4”. From the picture yours seems correct.

Scott

 

Thanks Scott. I wondered if the ball could go deeper into the tube but didn't want to end up with not enough pivoting angle.......I'll see what others recommend for now, but I am not opposed to trying to get the nylon bushing deeper into the tube.

 

It’s been awhile since I did a Z bar, but I think I remember a raised area/ledge inside the tube that the bushing rests against. You might want to remove the bushing and look inside or feel with you finger for confirmation.

Scott

 

The block side of the z bar does not get a bushing at all. Both bushings go on the frame side. The frame side keeps the bar from moving left to right. Pull the bushing out of the block side and it will go right on.

 

Thanks Tom. Raises another question: The z-bar does not line up very well with the engine stud. Is that a normal issue, or is it an unforseen problem?
The transmission isn't installed, but I'm pretty sure I have the engine jacked back up where it normally lives when the crossmember is installed..........
Also........the frame bracket is an aftermarket part, and is made from 3/16" or so flat bar. Is the original equipment that thick?
Thanks guys, I need the education.

 

This setup was on a 76 455 in my 69 442 when i bought it. Looks simple and worked fine.

 

Well, as they say, "I have good news and I have bad news".
The good news: A little grease in the tube allowed me to push it nearly all the way to the block, and the bellcrank is now installed.
The bad news: Now the bellcrank to throwout bearing arm is out of alignment by about 3/4". I'm thinking elongating the frame braket mount holes might let me move it aft, and hopefully swing the lower arm inboard..........secondary plan is to put a male heim fitting into the lower arm to move the rod inboard. Don't know how that will stand the force used to disengage the clutch.
I can hardly wait to see what the pedal to bellcrank rod has in store for me.
Suggestions?
LOL, thanks guys.