THius is longer than I thought - sorry.

So this winter I'm having my engine freshened up. It has been about 20 years since the last rebuild. Being a W30 I left it mostly stock but went with A JM 20- 25 - 10 and upped the converter to a 2500 RPM stall.

After opening the top end we found a couple of bent push rods and some recessed valves. At this point I feel we might as well rebuild the whole engine. With two more kids starting college I figure either I bite the bullet and fix it right this winter or wait 5 years after the last two finish college and by then the engine may have even more damage.

I'm leaning to a stock rebuild as I must admit after driving the 72 Cutlass convertible this summer with the 350 it was a pleasure driving a car so smooth and worry free. I do know, if built right, these 455s can be great engines. When I was younger I had a '76 regency with a 455 that made many cross country trips smooth and worry free.

Looking for input as I'm one to agree one never has enough HP/TQ but I just don't drive like that anymore - I just cruise and if I do race its at a track with different cars. With a W30 convertible I think I should be practical about the rebuild. I'm guessing (hoping) this will be the last rebuild for this car in my hands. In 25 - 30 years it will most likely be given to one of my girls.

Saying all of this I am open for recommendations on what route to go. I will be doing a head job, replacing camshaft - pistons look good so far. Not sure if I should go with a complete stock rebuild but I'm not against pushing it a bit. I'm guessing there may be better grinds out there now other than the JM 20-25. Any suggestions welcomed. If stock is best that's fine, I'm not trying to win any races - just cruise down the street with an occasional Christmas tree or water heater in the car

Car specifics:

Carburetor is a stock W30 7040258 with all the correct original parts
Distributor 1111979 with petronix
Stock aluminum intake
F-Heads mildly ported years ago
Camshaft JM 20-25-10
Rhoades lifters
Stock exhaust manifolds
Dual exhaust with H-Pipe
2500 stall converter
3.91 gears (in a 3.42 coded rear end)
SSIIs - 15 inch rims with 255/60/15s

 

Whatever you do otherwise, I'd consider doing a roller cam. Too much upside to ignore imo.

 

I was was wondering about that, wasn't sure if that was a Chevy preference or not, all my Chevy buddies told me to go that route. what cam did you recommend? Do you sell the lifters with it as well?

 

No not a Chevy thing anymore. You can get hyd rollers for just about anything these days.
Cam itself depends on your hp goals but cam, lifters and cam button are $875.00 shipped. You'll need to change the springs and pushrods as well.

 

Put in good valves and good pistons. Build it right once and drive it forever.
Ralph

 

My .02:

I would opt to go with a roller cam that is in line with the stock specs.

Good forged pistons, like Diamond.

All ARP bolts, Balanced, Roller Rockers, Cloyes timing chain.

All the other work - align hone, decked, 3 angle valve job (new valves)

You are probably looking at $7-8k for all of this.

If you have the budget, I would add a stroker crank and go to 500 cubes.

 

Is your car a matching number car? Does it have A/C? Are you going to keep the 3.91? or will you return to original 3.23 ratio?

 

VIN, engine, trans, and frame all match numbers. Original radiator carb, distributor heads, manifold, openface alternator all W30 and correctly dated.

Car came with a ton of options when I got it, from the W27 rear end to AC and cruise control. The only items not really original are the pentronix and the SSIIs. Car has PW, PDL, dual gate, electric seat back release, PDB, shoulder belts, tilt column.

I think I'd like to keep the 3.91s. though the rear end is coded to be a 3.42 which isn't correct for an AC car I know, but it came with it when I got it. And its fun.

 

Just for thought, you may want to contact costpen, and inquire on his engine build when he restored his car. His build from what I recall was very mild. Another build that was very nice was done by jensenracing for his W30.

 

If you are going to a 496 stroker why use a roller cam of stock specs?

 

I'm not really interested in stroking it, if I'm going to do that why not do more. I'm leaning towards stock with an edge.

 

I have the same car but hard top.
ported f heads and intake..mondello roller cam 238 , 1.6 roller rockers, bottom end built, this cam is great, this is the biggest can that has enough vacuum
It's 2x quicker than stock 442 off the line

 

If you want the best camshaft for your car contact Mike Jones in Denver,NC. Probably don't need a roller if you're not racing. Second choice would be Comp Cams, but talk to a tech rep. Whatever you do don't take an off-the-shelf grind designed for multiple displacements. Best of luck with your project.
http://jonescams.com/street-performance/

 

Doing a Roller has nothing to do with whether or not you’re going to race it. I’ve done a few W30 original builds lately in which they put rollers in them, and glad they did. One was a concourse car.
And the only hyd rollers Comp offers are very low on lift so yes I’d a custom cam. As you know that’s what I do.