Tuned 455 does not run properly
#1
Tuned 455 does not run properly
Hello! I have this problem with my newly tuned 455. When i kick down from drive or 2, the car shifts down but only slowly builds the revs, it actually was quicker before the engine work.
But if i floor it in 1, it just shreds the tires and goes like hell.
The setup is: Ported big valve C heads, edelbrock performer intake, edelbrock 750 carb, flowtech headers and dual 3 inch exhaust with 2 mufflers, Lunati 10420286 camshaft, dual roller timing chain and a Thunder HEI distributor with 8 mm accel cables.
It also runs very poorly at idle, adjusted the 2 screws on the front of the carb and it got better, both idle and driving it, but not at all good, still worse then before the tune.
First thought is i might have done something wrong with the ignition, so long time ago since i adjusted ignition properly. But pulled some plugs today and all of them were perfect, light brown.
A 750 carb should be enough for this setup right?
Any ideas are welcome, it shouldnt be possible that the car runs worse than it did before, haha
But if i floor it in 1, it just shreds the tires and goes like hell.
The setup is: Ported big valve C heads, edelbrock performer intake, edelbrock 750 carb, flowtech headers and dual 3 inch exhaust with 2 mufflers, Lunati 10420286 camshaft, dual roller timing chain and a Thunder HEI distributor with 8 mm accel cables.
It also runs very poorly at idle, adjusted the 2 screws on the front of the carb and it got better, both idle and driving it, but not at all good, still worse then before the tune.
First thought is i might have done something wrong with the ignition, so long time ago since i adjusted ignition properly. But pulled some plugs today and all of them were perfect, light brown.
A 750 carb should be enough for this setup right?
Any ideas are welcome, it shouldnt be possible that the car runs worse than it did before, haha
#2
What did you set your timing to? Points or electronic ignition? When you adjust your carb, you should use a vacuum gauge and adjust to highest vacuum, or a tach to the highest rpm. With a cam I prefer a tach.
#3
How do you mean to the highest rpm with tach?
#4
You need to advance your timing a bit. You'll find your engine will like it. Do you have a dial back timing light?
Do you have a tach and dwell meter? With it hooked up turn your idle/air scews out about 2.5 turns each. Then turn them in 1/8 turn at a time and watch the rpm's when you get to the point where the rpm's drop, back each out 1/8 turn. They need to be pretty even on the amount of turns each.
Do you have a tach and dwell meter? With it hooked up turn your idle/air scews out about 2.5 turns each. Then turn them in 1/8 turn at a time and watch the rpm's when you get to the point where the rpm's drop, back each out 1/8 turn. They need to be pretty even on the amount of turns each.
#6
2nd on advance the timing. 12 degrees is nothing with an aftermarket cam. Spec's are out the window. With Edelbrock heads, not C's I am running 17 degrees, 3 grand rpm or so with my dial back light,@ 37. Of course aluminum heads will take a little more but I still think you need to advance some. I have tried both ways up or down with mine and it likes what it is set at now.
Edit- I am running an HEI. 20 degrees advance.
Edit- I am running an HEI. 20 degrees advance.
#11
Are you still running points? I always shoot for the 36 and let the initial fall where it may. If I want more initial I have to limit the amount of mechanical to compensate.
Last edited by oldcutlass; August 7th, 2013 at 09:15 AM.
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