Ok so I think I could have a leaking intake manifold but I couldn't get the car running any batter then wear it is at on the gauge the vaccum pump on the dis hits the fire wall when I turn it and only goes to 10. What do you guys recommend me doing. And do I have the gauge hooked up in the right spot?




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I recommend you pull the distributor, turn the rotor to the right 1 or 2 wire positions and reinstall. Then set your timing. 10* with an hei will make your car perform poorly.

 

Like I can't believe the vaccum is so low cuz my car runs really well for where it's at I don't hear and pinging or knocking I just get poor gas mileage the intake manifold gasket looks like a home made one so I feel that could be leaking. But yeah I'll move the distributor and replace the gasket

 

You have classic symptoms of low initial timing advance: poor economy, no pinging, no knocking.

Do as suggested and get the timing to realistic parameters and see how it runs before you touch the intake gasket.

 

You need a full manifold vacuum source e.g. the AT modulator manifold source is a great one to use or any emission control unit manifold source. I generally don't use any of the carburetor ports for a vacuum test - go directly to the manifold, instead. And, if you have a Holley carburetor w/ a primary metering source don't connect the gauge to the primary metering source because it's a timed vacuum port which only shows full vacuum at high RPM.

Try using the AT modulator manifold vacuum source.

 

Steven- I looked at some of your old posts and I guess you have a 1967 with additional modifications.

So, you may have the vacuum gauge hooked up to the Holley primary metering source which would show a very low amount of vacuum. Try using the AT modulator manifold vacuum source or any emission control unit manifold source. The key here is to use a manifold vacuum source. Of course, this assumes the 1967 has an AT modulator line. My first automobile was a 1967 442, but that was 49 years ago & I sure don't recall if it had an AT modulator line; and, it most surely has limited emissions control units. Again, the point being use a manifold vacuum source and not the primary metering source off the Holley.

 

If you have a suspected vacuum leak here is the easiest way to find it. You can always use the old "starting fluid trick" but that is a fire hazard:

 

I've watched his videos before - he's a trip and a half.

 

Not sure if you are not seeing it or if I am wrong but I have the gauge hooked into the 90 that screws into the manifold. Is that not the right place to have it? And that brass 90 fitting off the manifold is where I have the vaccum advance hooked up I was going to pull the dis. And turn it like you recommend or should I check the timing first with a light?

 

Was the 10 number quoted in post #1 off the vac gauge or using a timing light? If it was off the vac gauge, disregard all the previous comments. Yes, the proper and more accurate tool is the timing light for timing, vacuum gauge is used to adjust the carb.

 

Ugh sorry again for confusing u guys and yeah no timing light has been used yet. Still waiting for my mom's husband to bring it over. The 10 was turning the dis trying to get better vaccum at idle. So the car is running rich how to I adjust that?

 

You need to get your timing lined out first before setting the carb. The 2 A/F adjustment screws on the carb are for idle only, once out of the idle circuit they do nothing.

 

Ok. Yeah I figured I had to time it first thanks for the info. That's why I'm out beating on ball joints. Finally gonna put the front disc conversion and tubular control arms on while I wait to get the timing light and figure all that out. And last night all the lights started flickering and the car started to sputter like it did when I thought my radio was grounding out or something. Any ways I didn't have that hooked up so I'm either losing a ground connection or have a short in another wire. No clue what happened but I'll have to trace that down too.