Sometimes we all have a freshly cleaned, hot dipped and machined block laying around but we aren't ready to assemble it nor do we know how long it will sit around before we can get it all buttoned back up. Facing this problem myself, the block will be outside exposed to the elements and I would like some tips you guys can give on sealing the block up and making it 100% dust proof until it can be reassembled. Obviously the first thing i'll be doing is installing the new core plugs and any threaded oil galley fittings. For the timing cover, intake valley and other similar openings I was going to use several layers of newspaper and lots of duct tape to keep things out of the cleaned block. Followed by a large clean tarp wrapped around the block a couple times to keep the rain out.

Sound sufficient?

 

I would use plastic news paper can absorb moisture and many small insects dine on it. Also some of the inks used to be slightly acidic.

 

Best to keep it inside the garage and do all of the above. Outside is NOT good, very bad idea.
Gene

 

No garage for me! Yuma is about the driest place on earth so i'll probably be fine outside.

 

Go to Wal-Mart and buy a box of the value brand lawn garbage bags, the 39 gallon ones.

Put one of those over the short block and tape the end closed around the engine stand,

Not on engine stand?

Put bag over block on a clean piece of cardboard box/piece of wood and lift the block up enough, tilt/lean and tuck the ends of the bag underneath the block. That should keep dirt out of it unless it's in a really dirty/windy area.

 

Go to your local butcher and ask him to sell you a roll of that wide saran wrap that they use. Buy a big steak from him at the same time. Wrap that plastic around and around, up and down, like they do for suitcases at the airport. I have done that with big stuff (never an engine block though). I live in a coastal environment and it works great. Then do the garbage bag thing like SBORule advises.

 

I lived in Tucson for a year or so, I know it's dry...but a fresh cut piece of cast iron is going to surface rust no matter how dry it is outside. I would use the garbage bags in layers. Tape the open end of the bag and put 3 layers of bags over it, taping each one.

 

If you do all of what has been said about the bags. I would make sure the sun does not shine on the bags. Condensation will form and rust is alive a well. If you have a shed do the bag trick and keep it in the shed.

Gene

 

I pretty much did what SBOrules said.

My 330 is on a stand in my mom's garage. It's wrapped up in 2 small bags (small meaning about 55 gallons) and they are tied up, losely, where the stand and blcok mate. Then the engine is wrapped again in a super large bag (but very thin) bag is probably abut 200 gallons or so. The engine is also wearing a nice coat of fogging oil

I get these bags at work. They just recycle them

 

be sure to oil coat all the freshly machined surfaces,then bag it.

 

you probably dont have this problem, but we do up here north of 49..

rust!

i soak the block in motor oil, and make sure to grease the cylinders so the block can be stored for years without threat of corrosion pitting the gasket surfaces and cylinders

 

I just read the title of your post and posted a reply.

Too bad you don't have atleast a shed to put the engine in.

I can't picture storing an engine outside in the elements, I would bring that thing in and park it in the dinning room before I left my engine outside.

I have assembled two engines over my life time inside the house, one in the dinning room and the other in a kitchen dinning room combo when I lived in a single wide in my younger years.

Good Luck

 

Thanks for all the replies, unfortunately all I have to work with is the backyard. It's all grass too. Pulling the motor and tranny in grass with the hoist was not fun at all. Had to use two large sheets of plywood to get it out to keep the hoist from sinking. If I can atleast get the motor finished and assembled for now I won't even worry about getting it back in the truck until the weather cools off.

Can an assembled 455 be test run on the ground or with it partially supported by the engine hoist?

 

Not a good idea.

I have pulled engines using an old swing set and a comealong back when I was young&dumb so I know what your going through.

Be safe.

 

Buy a $200 6'x8' shed and a $50 engine stand (or pick up a used one on Craigslist or Kijiji for cheaper). Then go to an industrial supply store (or perhaps Staples/Office Depot) and buy a roll of shirnk wrap. Once the engine is wrapped, get two bags of charcoal and open them up (they'll absorb any moisture) and leave them by the engine. Note: I've never done this myself, but it just seemed like a good idea.