ok. Know this is going to be hard with the limited knowledge I have about what is actually in my engine but just a basic question. We tightened the rockers down to where we could barely twist the pushrods then another half turn or so. Now once we start it there is terrible rocker noise. So we took valve covers off and tightened hem with motor running and they got fairly quiet. Started it up again the next day and they are noisy again maybe even worse than before. Sounds like an old diesel truck. Took valve covers back off and can wiggle all but a couple on each side but can't push any of them down like the life tears if they were collapsed. So what kind of issue s could cause this?

 

The 455's were non adjustable. Just crank 'em down tight. Torque spec is 25 ft. lbs.

 

So do we have to have it on Any particular position like compression stroke or just go through and torque them down as they sit right now?

 

Torque them down as they sit and you should be good to go.

 

Ok. Will give it a go again. Thanks.

 

If your rockers look like this, they are non adjustable and just need to torque them down. If they don't, they need to be adjusted similar to a Chevy.

 

No problem. If you still have a tick, you may have a collapsed lifter.
Good luck and let us know how it works out.

 

True. As Eric pointed out, I was going with the stock valve train as pictured.

 

I would prefer to torque them down with both lobes of the cam on the base circle, not on any lift on either pushrod/lifter. Either way would probably be fine but that is how I'd do it.

Good luck!

 

Ok so I should have given more info. This is a 455 block with a 425 crank And 455 heads. It has comp cams can, lifters, and stud mounted roller rockers. The guy who was helping me tightened them like chevy style I believe. He is busy farming right now so don't want to bother him too much but they are LOUD. if a lifter is collapsed shouldn't I be able to press down on the rocker and push the rod down or no? We re tightened them once with it running as I said and Not quiete them down but now they are noisy again. Wondering if you should have to Keep re tightening them several times or is it possible we have some other issue?

 

CJ, I don't have any experience with the rollers, but someone will hopefully
chime in and give you a hand.

 

No if they are set right and you have poly locks you don't normally have to readjust them.

Use the EOIC method if you want to do them with engine not running. Read the article below:
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0702-camshaft/

If your want to do it with the engine running, loosen each rocker until you hear them clack, then tighten until they are quiet. Then tighten an additional amount dictated by the cam and lifter manufacturer. Usually 1/4 to 1/2 turn additional. Make sure all the poly locks are tightened.

 

That is how (i think) we did it before installing the engine. But can't remember now for sure. I guess we can start over and do them again since we have it all apart anyway.

 

I would...

 

Ok just to be clear so do I just make sure the pushrod cannot slide up and down or just so it will not twist between my fingers before I tighten nut down?

 

Ok one more thing, what are poly locks? These are just regular looking old school lock nuts. Not the type with a plastic ring built in them just the ones with kind of a rounded edge top on them with little slash like marks going around the top edge, not sure if that description makes sense?

 

Can you take a pic of your rockers/nuts and post it?

 

 

Have you checked to make sure your pushrod length is correct and your rollers are riding correctly on the valve stem?

 

Umm I don't believe we did any checking of that. How do you you check that?

 

Read this thread, Mac is a beginner also:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...l-trouble.html

 

And are you sure you have good hardened pushrods. I did have the same rockers on my motor, and had a problem with only one pushrod. The pushrod in question started wearing down up under the rocker. The rocker looked ok but Comp Cams sent me a new one. Anyway new pushrods and Harland
Sharp rockers later, problem solved.
So im trying to say be sure you dont have the same problem, check the ends of your pushrods, if they look ok then put them back exactly in the same hole same orientation.

 

Does Comp make their own lifters? I dont know. Some lifters will bleed down when the motor is not running, and need to pump up when started. They will make a little noise until they pump up, but it should happen pretty quick. Does oil squirt from the pushrods when your adjusting it running? It should. You dont have polylocks, just standard rocker nuts

 

As Steve said you have stamped steel roller rockers and crimp style lock nuts. Not a bad setup. The reason I asked about the pushrod length is because I see a lot of threads sticking out of the nuts and it looks like a few of your rollers are not centered on your valve stem from the pictures.

 

I do not know. The guy I got the engine from did it had "re-sized rocket rods" it was built somewhere in Arkansas and has been changed hands a few times before ever being ran until I got it. It is a fresh rebuild but the guy I got It from didn't even know it had a 425 crank in it. I only found that out while fighting the Flexplate not fitting. I guess to me it was very strange that we could tighten them while it was running and got it to quiet down, then it say for a day or two and started back up noisier than before. I am lost when reading all about checking the rod length and the "pattern" and all that. Its way over my head in afraid lol.

 

Read the link I posted. Mac is a beginner also, his engine is a 350 but the same principles of measurement apply.

 

Ok I'll check it out.

 

I say your push rods are to short.
You need harden push rods.
You also need to get rid of those nuts and use poly locks.
You tighten until tension on push rod, then 1/4 turn more.
Those are Comp roller tip rockers and the nuts tend to back off.
When you use the poly locks, you will need thick valve cover gasket or double gasket
I do like said earlier adjust each rocker while on base circle. No load on the rockers. One at a time.

Gene

 

Ok so can anyone post a link to the exact poly locks of need for these? They are arp studs I believe. I'd like to try those just to eliminate the nut backing off possibility. Gonna get after this again on Friday afternoon. Thanks!

 

ARP makes them, you need to know your stud diameter.

 

Well, we think what we thought was valve train noise is actually piston noise. The guy who was helping me some, has years and years of engine building experience, including sprint car motors says he is sure it's piston slap like the machine shop didn't bore it properly or the Pistons are faulty somehow. I dunno, it sounds like a diesel with no oil lol but man does it get up and go. Needs a posi bad lol. I'm just happy it's out of my garage. I guess we will run it til it won't run or we come up with the cash to have it done correctly whichever comes first. The 2800 stall isn't very friendly for the street either so may put the stock converter back in. Just want to thank everyone for all the help and advice the last couple months. You are all a great source of knowledge and it is much appreciated!

 

Glad you got it moving. Welcome to the torque.

Beware..don't over look the fact that exhaust leaks sound like crap too, and might cover up other things going on.

That converter really needs to match the other components in the drive line. Like the rear end ratio among other things.

 

Thanks! Pretty sure it's not an exhaust leak of any kind. Its definitely coming from the engine. Only reason we have this converter is it came in the tranny I got a steal of a deal on. We just kind of threw this together on a whim and a prayer lol. We just plan to drive it as is for awhile and hopefully over the winter at least go to a posi rear with a lower (higher numerically) read gear and if money allows have a machine shop go back through the motor and make it right. Really unbelievable the power difference from the 350 that was in it.

 

Have you checked the pushrod lengths? If you have a performance cam, your setup will not like the stock converter.