Looking for some input on parts for reassembling a 455 with heads just back from the machine shop.

-Any disadvantage to using the cheap (~$23, PN 8171PT1) FelPro 455 Head Gaskets?

-I've done some compression math and I think I'm working with about 8.5:1, give or take a tenth. Any point in chasing another 10th or so with thinner gaskets at 4x the price?

-Any advantage to using ARP head bolts over originals/ stock replacements?

-Any reason not to go with the turkey tray?

Any input/info is appreciated, I've never been this deep into a motor before. More on how I got here if your interested: https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...7/#post1287307

 

Oh, and any reason I can't just pickup intake and exhaust manifold bolts at the hardware store?

 

Yes, to all of the above. Basic parts are fine for your build.

 

No. FelPro makes the best gaskets around.
No. Completely undetectable by the butt dyno.
The hardware used by Oldmobile isn't TTY so it can be reused after cleaning if it's in good condition. ARP headbolts are a MAW purchase. I used them when I rebuilt my 455.
Have you installed a turkey tray intake gasket before? If not, get a different gasket or find someone that can help. I find the turkey tray quite difficult to install.
Go for it. I used stainless hardware I got from the hardware store on my intake manifold. Just make sure it's good quality hardware or you'll end up changing it again once it corrodes.

Here's a recent thread that mentions the turkey tray:

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...gasket-149691/

 

I’m not familiar with the rest of your build, so this may not apply.

The Fel-Pro gaskets are thicker than the factory steel shim gasket. I think their reasoning is most heads will require some resurfacing during the overhaul. The thicker gaskets will usually put things back to the factory dimensions. Using thin gaskets on heads that have been milled could also create valvetrain issues on the factory non-adjustable Olds rocker arms. As long as the factory head bolts are clean and in good shape, and don’t have a “springy” feel as your torquing them, they can be reused. If the bolts don’t want to tighten smoothly, that’s a sign of overheating or overtorqing. The bolt is stretching and will need to be replaced.

Hardware store bolts will work just fine on intake or exhaust manifolds. You may have to clean and reuse any factory bolts with mounting studs.


The turkey tray gasket can and does work, if it’s installed correctly. Test for it before applying any sealer. Test fit the manifold before applying sealer. Throw away the rubber end seals, use a bead of good quality silicon. Oil the threads of the bolts, torque them in stages and evenly. Re-torque them after a couple heat cycles.

The factory didn’t use gaskets on the exhaust manifolds. The heads and exhaust manifolds had nicely machined flat surfaces to seal things up. Chances are slim that the surfaces are smooth enough to seal after decades of service. Install the gasket with the rough surface to the manifold (my thinking is it’s easier to resurface the manifold if it gets pitted from contact with the gadkey) install the bolts, tighten evenly, retorque after a couple heat cycles.

 

I'm not a professional engine builder but I will give you one piece of advice regarding hardware store fasteners. Years ago I was changing an intake manifold for the first time, lost a bolt and bought one at the hardware store. Couldn't quite reach the recommended torque of either 20 or 25 ft/lbs, and the head snapped off. Bought and used my first set of ez-outs.
The takeaway; that was a grade 2 bolt. Always buy at least grade 5 unless it's something very simple, grade 8 if it's something that you know had to carry some extra torque.

 

Thanks guys, Parts = Ordered!

At the end of the day the only thing that means anything!

Cross your fingers for me, I'm going to give it a shot!

Noted! Grade 8 it will be.

The build is a mild one, valve guides were just toast and a couple other things needed to be addressed. I was hoping that I would find flat top pistons when I took the heads off, but there they were... pistons you could serve soup from!

 

Never had a problem with grade 5 bolts for the intake or exhaust; that is what the factory bolts are.