Hello everyone. I have been tearing apart my 455 and reading Bob Gerometta's book "Engine Modification and Tuning Guide." I figured I should start a thread to slowly ask questions as I go through the engine.

I guess I should let you know what I want out of my engine. When finished, I want a good streetable engine. I will RARELY run it at the track (maybe once a year). I want good torque because the engine will undoubtedley go into a full sized car.

Here are my first two questions:

1) Does anyone know of a good machine shop in the Oklahoma City, OK or Dallas, TX area?

2) Are forged pistons necessary when rebuilding an engine? I have heard they are more resistant to higher compression and more drable under high rpm.

 

I can't help you with an engine builder in your area.

Forged pistons are not necessary but are an upgrade like you pointed out. The factory used cast pistons and they survive a good long time. Long enough to survive the usual warranty period. You could say it was good enough for factory's point of view.

I would probably choose forged. This is where your first question becomes important. Properly installed and machined either piston is good. I would hate to have any bad work done and mess up my $investment$ regardless of piston choice.

 

Check with the following:

Oklahoma Oldsmobile Club
1008 S.W. 69th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73139

And the following:

http://clubs.hemmings.com/frameset.cfm?club=ntexasoca

Not at your power level.

Norm

 

What he said.

Not properly installed and machined, no piston is good.

Norm

 

Ok, thanks for the info on the pistons. Here is another question that I have.

3) When I have the block bored is it necessary to have the machinist use a torque plate, or is this only needed with a race motor?

 

Pop! I just heard someone open a big can of worms..........

 

He/she would use it during the "hone", not the "bore" process.

At your power level, it would not be necessary, as cylinder distortion is minimal, and you would never know the difference. Your highest priority must be, that the finished bore provides the correct piston clearance.

But, you did not ask whether, or not, it would be a good choice.

Norm

 

Well, I think I found a decent machinist; however, I still have some reservations. I am going to drive up to his shop in Oklahoma City, OK and talk to him next week. Truthfully, he is the only machinist in the area that even has a torque plate for a 455. In addition, his prices are pretty decent. He says that all he does is hi performance / muscle car work. BTW, did the factory ever use a torque plate when honing the cylinders? I know there are factory engines with over 300,000 miles (I think the OCA record is 700,000+ miles without a major rebuild).

 

No. They had no reason to.

Norm

 

sorry about my comments there, I was going by the responses I have read over at other Olds related sites. LOTS of arguing as it seemed there were two camps, one for and one against. Me, I always favor to the manufacturer, if they built engines that could last 100, 200 or even over 300 thousand miles what were they doing right, and what were they not doing wrong?

just goes to show how nice we are to one another over here at classicolds...

 

There is a third camp: Those who actually know the subject.

They are the same ones, that laugh at all the silly arguments.

Norm