I have installed a new 195 degree thermostat, and have a brand new harrison 4 core radiator in my car. I was told that the water pump was rebuilt. By the way my engine was completely rebuilt. I also have a clutch fan for a w30 that I bought off someone in the club. My car starts to overheat (hear boiling at intake manifold).

When I had the incorrect fan blade and clutch fan, car did not overheat. Any suggestions as to why it overheating now with 200 miles on engine.

Is this an clutch fan issue?

Thanks - Chris

 

What temperature is the engine reaching?

 

Not 100% sure on the temperature, but the gauge goes all the way to the H on the gauge and you can hear the antifreeze boiling in the top radiator house. I'm thinking the water pump needs to be rebuilt.

I dont have the fan shroud on but dont think this would cause it to heat that much

Chris

 

This is a used clutch? Do you know it's good?

 

When can you hear the "boiling. After the car has been driven, and shut off,a gurgling may be audible. that gurgling bubble can raise the level in the top tank, up to an overflow. Such a bubbling is not an overheat

 

With the car running in the garage for a while can you get the clutch fan to kick in. Have you tried a different radiator cap?

Bill

 

200 miles on a rebuilt 400E BB. I'm going to throw this out there-x2 on the radiator cap, defective new thermostat-if you believe coolant is boiling at the top hose, does the bottom hose feel as hot, I'm looking for circulation. I can't tell you how many times I installed new bad parts! 200 miles on a rebuild and if the timing is off they will get real warm....

 

The water pump is likely not the issue unless the impeller has somehow fallen off the shaft, but you can easily verify if it's moving water or not. Leave the radiator cap off and run the engine until it's up to temp and you should be able to see water flowing through the upper radiator tubes.

FYI, one time long ago when I was a poor school kid who ran straight water, the impeller rusted off the shaft. In that case the engine would go from cold to boiling over in about 5 minutes of idling.

 

FUN71-thats interesting and possible-he WAS told the water pump was rebuilt, and "I have ocean front property in Phoenix Arizona"

 

There is flow in the radiator but after a few minutes the antifreeze goes to the top and then it just sits there. I put my finger in there after a few minutes and it was hot. The clutch fan spins the fan blades. Both the top and bottom are equally as hot after 5 minutes. The radiator cores are very hot as well. I do not have the shroud on yet.

I was reading that the thermostat should be installed a certain to to have proper flow, wondering if the new thermostat was installed incorrectly?

It seems as if a lot of hear is coming from the the engine intake manifold.

Any other suggestions before I take the water pump off for nothing?

thanks

 

new engine....
forged pistons?

You should try advancing the timing. Retarded timing will lead to overheating.

Is the power output low, the car sluggish?

 

Point an IR thermometer at the thermostat housing and get a real temp before you jump to conclusions.


The lack of a shroud could cause it to have cooling problems

 

So that means the water pump is functioning.

 

I'll reiterate what a couple others have told you:

First, find out exactly what the coolant temperature is.

Second, before blaming the cooling system, make sure your engine isn't producing more heat than normal. Start with the simple stuff: carburetion and timing. But also, what pistons (model and size) were used in the rebuild and what clearance was used? It would also be good to know your bearing clearances. If your engine builder can't answer these questions, you may have found your problem.

 

It bet it's engine timing. You may want to read #2, #3 in the link below

http://www.rootesparts.com/id201.htm

 

I always had good results with a 160 deg. thermostat at 195 your never going to run any cooler than 195 and your going to spike way above that when your getting on it.
That's to hot for my liking try a 160

 

I don't like a 160, I prefer a 180 if your going to drive in the winter. A thermostat only dictates minimum operating temp. The cooling system dictates the max.

 

for all those who offered advice and solutions. I've finally solved the problem.

It was the shroud. By putting the shroud on made all the difference. However since i bought it from "The Parts Place", I had to break off part of the bottom (hitting). If I pulled on it and held the bottom, it was fine, however, there molds never line up well. Now I need to find a new one. For the time being this one will work.

I think I'm gong to change the thermostat to a 180 degree, think this will be better served. I'll also check the timing as well.

Mystery problem solved - thanks everyone

 

Glad you got it under control.

 

He may have the same problem with another shroud though.
Seems like there was a change in the size of the fans, 19 or 19.5 IIRC.
If he has the larger one, won't it clip the bottom again?

 

I have the 19inch fan blade

 

engine still over heating on my 70 442 w30. I tested the engine temp and here are the readings. intake by thermostat neck is 240, upper house 225, lower house 225 water pump 240, house to water pump and intake 240. when car is idling its at 225 at thermostat, 195 at hoses, 225 at waterpump. I had it in park running at 4000-5000 RPM and the heat went up quickly. I dont want to take on highway since it might overheat and break down.

I have a early post from everyone else giving ideas. any other suggestions

Chris

 

engine still overheating, temp shows 245 at thermostat, 225 at the hoses and 245 waterpump

 

I merged the two threads because there is history on your issue. What is the temp just idling? What is the temp driving at speed (you don't have to go far), just cruise close to the house. Running an engine at that rpm and just the fan pulling air will cause the engine to get hot.

On a separate note, what is your timing set to? How old is the clutch on your fan?

 

You may have a defective thermostat. Take the thermostat out or gut it out and use the plate as a restrictor plate and take it from there.

 

Have your tried, a new radiator cap, what is your inital timing, does your clutch fan kick on?

Bill

 

Make sure the fan is pulling and not pushing

 

The fan clutch you put on is no good...

 

Destroying a carefully engineered part of a known working system seems like a bad idea to me. These can be verified in boiling water on the stove... or replaced with new for cheap. Or replaced with known working used.

We have seen reverse rotation fans installed on this site, such that it was running backwards compared to what it was designed to do. There is a reverse rotation Olds V8 water pump. These might be overlooked.

Got pix? That's how I nailed the reversed fan thing.

Are you running the correct pulleys for your cooling system, or some bling that "looks better", or just what was handy?

Changing out the fan and clutch for a known working good set seems affordable and easy. I assume you know how to tell if the clutch is bad, and how to determine that. If not, look it up, maybe a youtube video.

Basically, if there is too much heat then

1) generating too much heat [timing off, pistons too tight, etc.] or/and

2) failing to dissipate the heat [flow inadequate, radiator clogged or undersized, etc.]

 

So, I know I am new, but, I had the same exact problem. I was overheating constantly and had the same boiling sound. I wasn't losing coolant and I had no coolant in the oil. After weeks of profanity and trying everything, I took the top end off this weekend. I have a head cracked in the valve seat through the exhaust port. I hope for your sake this isn't the problem, but . . . .

 

Check for exhaust gas in the coolant. A kit to do this is cheap at a local parts store.


What is your piston to wall clearance?


Timing plays a big part in engine temperature.


Is your carb calibrated properly?


Factory or aftermarket water pump?


(If the impeller is slipping, you will not be able to remove the heat)

 

The water pump is the correct pump for the 70 w30 404847 X, I have the correct numbered pulley's for the car (bought of members), I have the correct and new Harrison radiator (CI & IF tanks with a new core - just restored it), i have a 195 degree thermostat, all new hoses and belts. The clutch fan is good, bought from a member (correct number for w30 fan), have the 19in fan blade with the fan shroud on the car. Motor has 200 miles on it since being rebuilt by a very reputable performance builder her in St.Louis. The heads have been rebuilt.

 

the fan blade seems to be pushing heat out towards the engine. When i look at how the fan blades are suppose to be based on the manual, it looks correct.

 

This may be obvious, but I ran into this myself recently and maybe it's worth checking this if you have not...

I recently replaced my water pump on my 350, and to test it for leaks I filled it with water instead of 50/50 antifreeze so in case it leaked I wouldn't waste $8 of antifreeze if I had to reseal the pump. When it passed (no leaks) I drained the radiator again and filled again with 50/50 and went from there.

When I took it out and ran it hard, it would overheat - basically boiling out of the radiator into the overflow and all over the ground. The cap was good and was holding pressure properly. I finally tested the antifreeze with a tester and sure enough it was definitely weak. When I drained the radiator I guess I didn't remove enough water in the block and heater core and it weakened the mixture. This time I drained the block at the bottom hose and re-added full strength until the antifreeze check out at a 50/50 mix. From that point no more boiling over.

For what it's worth...

 

Straight water is a better coolant than a 50/50 mix. The 50/50 mix has a SLIGHTLY higher boiling point (approx 265 deg F vs. 252 deg F for plain water at 15 psi), but if your cooling system is anywhere near that you have a problem not related to the type of coolant. Plain water is more efficient at heat transfer from the engine, so the "weak" mix was not the cause of your problem.

 

Hmmm - I guess my root cause will remain a mystery. Thanks for the thermodynamics refresher

 

The fan clutch was bought from a member but is it brand new and did you test it. ( not insinuating you got intentionally sold a bad part but they can look good but be defective). Wont hurt to check it.

 

Happy to hear the solution was simple. I run a 160 degree thermostat in Florida. I am thinking of going to a multi speed electric fan for traffic use.

 

I reply to the straight water comment, I went to water after some advice in a forum. Within 3000 miles I rusted out the water jackets in my block, heads, and intake. The subsequent brown sludge screwed up my aluminum radiator, plugged my thermostat, clogged up my water pump. While water may work in an aluminum block and heads, I do not recommend it for cast iron.

 

My rebuilt 461 with 10.5:1 compression overheated for a long time until I finally bought a huge expensive aluminum radiator, high flow pump, heavy duty cooling factory pulleys and a new clutch for an RV (severe duty). Now it runs cool even on the hottest days. Worst is maybe 200 degrees.