Eddie Hansen

I have finally found a machinist and spoke with him on the phone, nicwe guy and funny enough same last name so it has to be a good sign LOL,

the price seems right so my question is what are the must do's and what kind of valvetrain to get, his price would include new pistons etc etc but when it came to the valve train it sounds like he is going stock, I also have small valve c heads, and I think it will be ok for the street and occasional blast, from what I read in this forum, he is putting in hardened seats, new guides etc, what cam is good? I have a 4 speed but only a 3.08 rear, it is posi, and I want to upgrade to a 3.42 any suggestions?

The gent is an olds and pontiac specialist and his reputation is excellent,

just want to have some ideas when I drop by the shop on saturday, I am finally getting to my resto LOL... I am practically giddy,

oh I have the stock manifold, and a holley rebuilt quadrajet, should I be thinking edelbrock performer, I am hoping for 400 HP or even 380 he is decreasing the compression to 9.5 to 1 ( it is a 69 455)

any advice would be great

Eddie Hansen

BTW i have the w/z manifolds and am not going to run headers if it makes a huge difference, I would also like to keep the motor fairly cool, so any radiator advice would be welcomed too

70 cutlass s

I would use an Edelbrock preformer cam and lifters, and comp cam roller tip rockers. I would drive it around before i make mind up on the gears 3.42 is about as low as you want to with a 455 your going to drive on the street.

Eightupman

For the carb go here. www.sparkyscarbs.com He will custom build you a carb for your motor based on cam specs, CR, etc. He will need all that info to build the carb properly. Trust me when I say you will not be happy with the Holley rebuilt version.

Camshaft. Choose a Lunati Voodoo cam. Their new grinds suit the Olds motor very well.

If you are going to use a 4 speed, make sure you are using a crank that is drilled for a pilot bearing.

Why is your builder saying he is going to DECREASE your compression? Makes no sense. Compression is poor mans horsepower as long as you don't go over 10.1 Use Speed Pro Flat top forged pistons (run about $45 each from Summit or Jegs) and a .028 thickness head gasket. you can get these at www.rocketracingperformance.com

As mentioned Comp Cams roller rockers are a good choice.

Knock the AIR bump off the exhaust ports of the heads... and pocket port the bowls. Block the EGR crossover, either with a gasket, or the blocks that come with a new performer intake.

4 core radiator is in order. As long as you have a good shroud, fan clutch and fan, that is all you really need to keep her cool. YOu can upgrade to an electric setup if you have the cash, or choose to slave in some junkyard electric fans if you want to save a buck.

But seriously though, engine builds are different for EVERYONE. What sounds good on paper may not work in theory. There are two other sites I invite you to check out with some tried and true down the track engine combinations. These guys are the ones you want to pay attention to because they have done the research down the track or on the dyno. Look for the "Combo" sections.

www.oldspower.com
www.realoldspower.com

John

Bobsw32

Ask him if he has and uses a torque plate when boring the block

Olds64

I had my engine rebuilt recently. I asked numerous questions and posted on our website to get all the information I could. I decided not to use a torque plate.

Plus, if you don't want to use headers or an aftermarket intake manifold then I suggest you look at Comp Cams factory muscle cams. I used the cam out of the 1971 W30. I am happy with it. I forgot the number... I think it is 40028 or something like that.

citcapp

Don't decrease the compression go with the speed pro pistons you will still be able to run pump gas. If you are having new valves and valve seats installed the bump up to the larger intake valves. this will add little to the cost. Pick a mild cam from one of the suggestion above. Keep the 3:08 gears with the 455 you will have good power off the line and a good cruiser as well. I run the same rear ratio behind my 455 and it scoots just fine

Eddie Hansen

Thank you gents, ok, I am meeting with him on saturday, he is a well known builder and i think he is taking into cnsideration that I told him I am NOT racing this, and wanted to use pump gas without additives, I will speak to him regarding the valve exchange as well, but I really unsure ( more unsure after reading in this forum regarding the same) if the upgrade to bigger valves is really necessary, wouldn't smaller valves give a better response in the lower rpm ranges?

what about stud kits and such is this necessary I was thinking definately do the arp rod bolts, and I was leaning to the roller tip rockers but more for the adjustability then anything.

Thank you for the advice about the gear ratio, it is a 3.08 posi, but thought that the 3.42 would be better, just in case a whipper snapper in a mustang gt busts my ball bearings LOL....

the price he gave me included carb and distributor work and will see what he says after meeting on the weekend.

Is this gonna be a B%tch to keep relatively cool? when i ran the 350 this car did NOT like traffic, but I planned to upgrade the radiator and the fan unit, and to make sure the shroud etc is tight,

is it worth upgrading to HEI?

Eddie Hansen

John thanks for the referrals, I asked for the crank to be drilled instead of the auto crank adapter pilot bearing, I am thinking the guy is giving a general description and we will discuss the actual work when we meet on the weekend.

I am looking for something that will be 97% for the street, and 3% just in case LOL, but want the engine built with good components for durability, would rather have overkill then just enough.

Olds64

ABSOLUTELY! If you only do one thing then make sure you upgrade to HEI. It won't give you a big horsepower boost but it will definitely improve the driveability of your car. Plus you won't have to deal with setting dwell and replacing points.

J-(Chicago)

Sounds like my kind of build.
I have all kinds of advice for you.
PM sent.

Eddie Hansen

ok HEI is in , J replied to your PM,

how available are toranado pans? anybody making repops? I really don't want a huge pan hanging down and i am also cheap don't feel like spending 500 on a mondello....

I have to say fellas this is quite the sticker shock, geez louise, should saw the missus face when i said I am getting a great deal on getting the motor rebuilt LOL... and it was over 3 large ones...


then I said I need to order the rear springs so I can put the body back down and do the quarters LOL.... man like a hole you throw money in....

I know I am a little all over the place getting the resto back on track, but I figure with the engine in, the body back down, it makes the elephant a little more appealing to keep chewing on...

and heck just saved 300 bucks on 3.42 gears LOL....

any thoughts for a clutch pressure plate ? in my GTO I used a stock borg and beck ( Stock GM ) but that was less torque can i get away with a fairly stock unit with an Olds? I did use the same stock type unit with the 350 and never had any slipping issues but a 455 seems like a big can a whoopass to open on a stock pressure plate and disc...

Olds64

I've found it isn't too difficult to find a Toronado oil pan; however, the Milodon pan on my 71 98 was only about $270. The Moroso pan is a bit cheaper but I had 3 different pans from Moroso and they all leaked. I finally returned it to Summit and told them enough is enough. I paid the extra for the Milodon pan and haven't had any troubles with it.

cutlassefi

If you're inferring that using a torque plate during boring has an advantage you're wrong. It absolutely has an advantage during honing but not boring. If you want to locate the bores correctly you need a Bor-Tru plate like I have. Torque plates, unlike a Bor-Tru plate, locate off the dowels which aren't always in the right place.

Eddie Hansen

well I am heading over today, and I had a nice chat with J-Chicago, on his set ups etc, I do know it is hard for the machinist to give details over the phone, so I am heading over today and sit down with him and find out exactly what he suggests as well. then I guess I should get all of it in writing and let the rebuild begin! lol,

it will give me a kick in the differential to get that damn diff and new springs back into place and the body lowered.

I am kinda glad the 3.08 gears won't be anemic behind a 455 I had 3.55's in my 69 gto and thought they were a nice balance, but the stock 400 in the gto didn't have near the torque of a 455 olds.

anyway I am excited...

Eddie Hansen

went to the machine shop, and I am still sportin wood, man the guy had a 64-65 hemi with the twin 4bbl magnesium cross ram, then there was the olds stuff edelbrock heads, 425's, 455's 400's 350's etc and I have never seen so many poncho parts in my life, 6 pack set ups etc etc etc

packed to the rafters. anyway he was an excellent person to talk with I was a little surprised by what he said, but I do feel I can trust him... don't know why but I left with a good feeling.


ok we agreed to get everything in writing after the initial inspection

he will replace the pistons with forged units and work toward an honest 9 to 1 compression ratio, he said that unless I want to married to race fuels, or additives etc with the quality of gas out there it will be the most streetable.

oil restrictors will be put in, melling hv pump\
balanced, blue printed, crank checked cut if required,
installing all new large valves, bronze guides hardened seats
all new bearings through out clevitte etc etc

he will port match the head to manifolds intake and exhaust, remove egr bumps, and completely debur the block and clean out any casting flash,

I think I am going with a performer manifols, now, and he suggested at most the w-30 type cam because of the power brakes ( I mentioned the 71 blue print cam mentioned above he thought that sounded ok)
as I said w z manifolds below, he said I should get a billet steel flywheel for the 4 speed if I am using the stock bell housing, roller timing chain, arp bolts.

everything will be checked and if required decked, line bored etc etc
the price included boring the cylinders but I asked if they are good enough just replace pistons ( he did not like cast pistons)
anyway more after he gets a good look at the motor

now the funny part, he said the motor will make some where around 350-375 HP? ( honest horsepower) and maybe 450 pounds of torque

does this seem low? he said ( to his credit) I could tell you 450 and 500 lbs of torque but that'd be lying, for a mostly street engine with a long life etc he said I'll be happier, he has to detune it a little or we need to run race gas.... he said when you cut the compression you lose power ( I knew that LOL) but still, he said otherwise we will have to retard the timing etc.

anyway he went on to say that he could go higher but streetability will suffer, he did have a just finished grand prix ( 71 I think) that was sporting a 500 Hp Poncho, ram air exhaust manifolds vacuum pump, high stall converter, and drainage pipe exhaust, man what a lopy idle, anyway the owner came by took it out for a spin with his pop, that old man came back white as a ghost and muttering in a foreign language LOL....

so what do you think?

Olds64

Sounds pretty cool. I don't know if you need a billet flywheel. I haven't heard of Oldsmobiles having flywheel problems.

I debated putting oil restrictors in my engine and decided against it. With the HV oil pump and a deep sump pan I won't have to worry about gernading the engine by over-revving it. Plus, the heavy car combined with my highway gears will prevent me from revving over 3500 rpm very often.

Eddie Hansen

regarding the restrictors I didn't ask for them, he said he would do it, I am going to look for a post Joe P posted where he discussed restrictors, he mentioned other ones as well... I am not racing the beast but I guess it couldn't hurt, sort of like the roller tip rockers I was thinking of, the machinist said with proper preload etc they aren't really necessary, but I kinda liked the idea of having "some" adjustment...

Eightupman

It actually sound pretty good on paper. I would re address the cam though... there are better grinds than the antiquated W-30 cam. A few racers I know seem to think Lunati Voodoo series cams are the way to go in an Olds motor. They are the grind of a guy that used to run Ultradyne.

I think 350-375HP is an absolutely honest assesment. That torque is what you will feel. Dependant on what gears you are running, you will get a little push back in your seat for sure.

As long as its all in writing, you should be good to go. However I DO have a question (if you don't mind saying). How much $$ did you have to give him up front?

Additionally, please get with Greg or Bob at www.sparkyscarbs.com before you settle on something other than a Q-jet.

John

J-(Chicago)

If you go with the restrictors, i'd use the screw in type rather than the press in type. If you buy some new pistons and get the compression to 9:1 without any head milling that's great. You could always mill the heads down later on to squeeze a little more out of it. 9.4:1 would be nicer than 9:1 and still run on premium just fine

Eddie Hansen

John, he said the way he does it is 1/3rd up front, then after all the machining , parts etc etc etc he said another third, then when it is running on the stand, all leaks etc checked tuned and I am happy the other third.


J he said he would get 9 to 1 pistons but he is also planning to deck the block and heads a little to make sure they are true and flush is that the right word...

John he mentioned other cams and we will get down to the nitty gritty when we put it in writing, he is going to do a little more looking, he mentioned that a 328 duration would be about max and he also thought there were better grinds and as it is a 4 speed he wanted to see what he thought was best I will ask him regarding the voodoo cams , he is worried about vacuum due to the power brakes..

He and the other posts here convinced me to leave the 3.08's in the car for the street? I dunno I had 3.55's in my geetooh and the 400 would sing nicely, but apples to oranges I guess....

Eddie Hansen

Well he asked if I was running the stock bellhousing etc and I said yes, and he said the old flywheels are cast and "COULD" disentigrate especially after 40 years he thought it is a little extra insurance for a torque monster... it was a suggestion not a must have but I kinda like my feet where they are LOL... don't want to see them stuffed and put up on the mantle collecting dust....

Olds64

That payment method seems pretty fair. I am happy with the factory muscle cam in my car. I have power brakes and haven't had any problems so far. I do seem to have trouble with my AC plenum doors but I think that is a vacuum leak on one of the actuators/

Eddie Hansen

as far as the cam goes I will start researching it and looking at the suggestions, I am nervous and asking a lot of newb questions cause I have been out of the loop for so long and actually I was never "really" in the loop sort of like on the fringe of the loop, ok not really on the fringe, but I could see the fringe of the loop, well not really seeing it but I heard from a friend who actually knew a guy who could see it that it was there... you get the picture LOL... sorry I type stupid sh%t when I am nervous LOL...

Olds64

No problem Eddie. Ask as many questions as you can. The only dumb question is the one you don't ask.

KZ442

Hi,

I live in the Chicago area, is there any Olds engine rebuilders in the aera that specialize in Olds engines? I am restoring a 72 442 with a stock 455 and I looking to basicly build the engine to W30 specs and boost the HP up alittle.

Thanks,

Olds64

Hi. J Chicago is one of our members that would know if there is a good Olds engine builder in that area. He lives there. BTW, you might want to start a new post so you get more coverage on your issue.

KZ442

Thanks OLDS64.