nonhog

Is that what you would call those? Mine are rusty and the machine shop said to try and get new ones and good luck finding them.
One has a squirter hole for T-chain?
I can search the web but having the proper name would help.
Thanks !

66ninetyeightls

Here you go. Easy Peasy!!!



http://dickmillerracing.com/store/page20.html

nonhog

Thanks! I was just about to post a picture and you beat me to it.

66ninetyeightls

You see the link under the picture though right???? LOL

Texas Jim

I sent for the Dick Miller catalog/manual last year, and it's well worth getting. Gives you all the info you need to do the 455 right, and all the know-how to install/utilize the correct components. Plus all the experience of the Dick Miller shop. Can't go wrong.

nonhog

Yep spent some time browsing, fun stuff ! thanks again

Good call !

I found GM part #'s but I'm sure they are long gone. My GM hook up is closed on Saturday.
22527021 / 22527020

Also stocked at other Olds shops like Mondello. My machine shop said try
Pioneer which I have yet to.
There is hope !

nonhog

Forgot to mention I could always steal the ones from my JY 455.
For 30 dollars I might. The rusty ones are soaking in vinegar now.

citcapp

The Dick Miller site says $17 bucks for the pair. Bet if you went to an old plumbing supply store you could find comparable plugs and drill a hole in one of them for a couple of bucks

nonhog

The rear ones are 17 the front ones are 31.13 not a ton of money but it will add up fast. Line bore and crank turn needed.
Hate to sound cheap but I am !
Read somewhere about special threads maybe thats a sells ploy?
I do have a drill press

cutlassefi

They're regular pipe thread. When you buy a freeze plug kit it comes with the plugs, undrilled.

I drill a .040 hole in both needed (front for the cam/chain, rear for the distributor), I think stock is around .025. No issues.

Railguy

Hi, I posted this a while back and got no reply,so I'll do it again.When I rebuilt my 350 I raised the oil pressure and the engine leaked everywhere,I mean everywhere.not a lot but everywhere.Turns out the holes that allow the oil to drain back down to the oil pan should have been made bigger.The oil was covering them and allowing crankcase pressure to build.Its something you should talk to your engine builder about.A lot easer to fix now than later.
Railguy

Boldsmobile

Inline Tube - $16

nonhog

So the block valley was plugging up ? with oil ? Not sure I follow.
I know the oil drain back smoothing and opening up has followers and nay sayers. Not sure myself?

I'm thinking if my threads clean up with the vinegar bath, I'll just drill it out to .040. Can't think of a downside.

Railguy

Yes thats right,what I did to fix the problem was I pulled the oil fill tube out,drilled a hole in the back and installed a pcv valve.I guess pressure from the crankcase combined with the vacuum above held the oil up and over the holes.The oil quite leaking immediately.I have a few friends that race 410's when I told them about what happened they all knew of this problem.Seams like I'm the only one that didn't.If I had it to do over I'd have re worked the block.And installed those "stackes" I don't know what there called.I saw them in all the 410's,never new what they where for but then some of those are over 900 hp and pushing 17-1.alot different then then my 350.
railguy

Run to Rund

The rear The front plugs are straight thread and seal on the shoulders of the plugs. One plug has a small hole in it and lubes the timing chain. The two front plugs have different thread sizes also. You should be able to find a junk Olds block to get them from.

My442

Fot the past 20 years or so, when I saw a post like this, I would send the small parts for free.

However, the last few times I did it, never even received a thank you.

The canadian guy on this site I sent an NOS clutch pedal bushing did not have the manners to thanks me.

Now, I don't do it anymore.

citcapp

That's to bad, a thank you is such an easy thing to do.

nonhog

People are so busy they sometimes become rude by default. No excuse.
Rude is rude.

I'm trying to sell my 49 GMC and people just up and stop returning e-mails even after I ask "are you waiting on me, did I forget something? let me know" nothing........ I expect that from the craigslist crowd but from forum members that is pretty bad. Back to plugs !

22527021 (the one with the hole, I THINK) you can get through your GM dealer my quote was $12.80 the 22527020 no go !
Still soaking mine.

nonhog

Vinegar works well as a mild rust remover.
Before and after pics.

66ninetyeightls

Wow. Thats impressive.

Railguy

A .040 bit only cost a couple bucks.When I did mine I think I bought 3.Gave 1 to my friend who put the bottom end together and put the others in my tool box.

nonhog

So I got BTR's book on Olds engines. Only read bits and pieces so far.
in the book he says plug the hole on the T-chain plug because it gets enough oil anyway. Odd that most are saying enlarge hole and he is saying plug it.
Just trying to get my head around this stuff.
Maybe neither is right or wrong just different ways to skin a cat?

66ninetyeightls

No idea why anyone would prevent the oil from getting back to the oil pump. Kinda stupid.

nonhog

Yeah, seems to me the more oil heading back to the pan is a good thing,
as well as keeping things good on the chain.
I'm not saying its wrong, just seems odd.
Where else does the chain get oil from?

greenslade

oil could drain back onto chain through the large --i inch hole --- from on top of lifters but the hole is in the plug so why change it,plus it supplies oil under pressure so chain gets oil as soon as there is oil pressure.

Boldsmobile

You can ask Bill yourself right here:

http://highperformanceolds.com/phpbb2/index.php

indianabanana

I'm a little late but here's what Summit has and all the plugs were there with the right orifices. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66559/