Following on from the below thread, I have some more questions but not leak related so thought I'd start a new one....

The manifold is now bolted down and i'm in the process of re-plumbing all the pipes and wires etc.

1. If you're looking at the original manifold in situ, in the far left hand corner there is a water inlet/outlet with what appears to be a regulator. This screws directly into the manifold with a 1/2" thread right? My new Performer intake has a whopping great 1" thread hole in this position. Do I simply buy a reducer connection and fit the old regulator or is there a new part that I need to buy that fits the 1" ?

2. I was clever enough to take a photo of the old intake before i removed it so I had a reference point for al the bits, however I can't seem to see the bit I need for this answer.... On the Performer intake, just behind the carb, there are 2 small threaded holes into the top of the casing. One of them I know is for the brass nipple connector that pipes off (left hand side hole), I can't for the life of me remember what the other one is for. I know it's something obvious but thought I should ask before getting it wrong!

see pic.
2151-1.jpg

Cheers my friends

 

Can someone also tell me the part name/number of the sender unit that sits in here as well please?

mine has snapped off and need a new one.

2711.jpg

cheers

 

You will need to use a reducing bushing to fit your heater control valve to the intake. '70 versus '71-2 model valves have the different sized threads and are not interchangeable (different fail positions on the two. Vacuuum closes a '70 and vacuum opens in '71-2, if I remember right). I imagine they cast the intakes to fit all year models with the larger threads figuring those with the smaller valve can make it fit but not vice versa.

Same sort of thing will apply for other threaded openings in the manifold. They will have put enough threaded holes in the right places to cover all possibilities for the year models the manifold is supposed to fit which means there could be some that you do not need to use. If you have no need for one or more of the ports then plug them.

Circled port in the bottom picture is where the ported vacuum switch is installed. Most times these have long since been abandoned or thrown away and plugged or used to fit a temperature gauge sensing element.

 

Thanks, that's a great help!

 

The front water port in 65 would be used for the temperature hot/cold light indicator on the dash.....no manifold vacuum switches used in 65 to my knowledge.

 

Unfortunately these bushings are not the easiest parts to source over here as out threads are completely different these days!
What are the implications of removing this valve altogether?

 

Vacuum applied closes the 72 heater valve also...

No heater if you block it off... If you are in a cool weather area and use heat a lot and not AC, connect the heater hose right to the block to have the heater flow all the time. With fan off, it should not overheat you too much...

 

Having trouble locating one of these too!
Can you please send me a link to this part for sale on a website or something?

Would be much appreciated, thanks.

 

valve.jpg

this is what i've got and what appear to be the thread sizes.

The 1" part was screwed into the intake manifold when i got it and the valve is how i removed it from the stock intake.

Could i simply join the two smaller threads together with a flexi-hose?

 

I don't think the heater works anyway???
perhaps the valve is shot.

 

The 11/16" part is straight thread with a flare fitting, not NPT. Someone was apparently using braided stainless for the heater hoses at one time.

The heater control valve is only used to turn the flow of hot water off when the A/C is in the max cold position. It is normally open. You can leave it off and the only downside is that the A/C won't get quite as cold in the max position. I doubt you'd notice the difference unless you lived in Arizona. On the other hand, if you want to use the valve, pipe thread bushings are readily available. Besides, we call these ENGLISH threads, don't we?

By the way, the thread on the valve should be 3/4" NPT.

On the following web page, scroll down to the reducing bushings:

http://www.pondusa.com/tubing4.htm



And finally, since your heater valve looks a little iffy anyway, why not just get the valve from a 307, which already has the larger thread size and doesn't require the bushing?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,6860

 

Ebay is a good source for the temperature switch.....look for item # 260360558407 in Ebay stores.....I believe this is the correct part....

 

you're a legend, thank you

 

That's perfect!
will it switch the correct way, having read the post about that issue earlier??

To be honest, i'm actually considering taking out the aircon at later date. It's not hooked up anyway and i'll only be driving the car in the summer so heaters aren't really that important either. It rarely gets above 70 degrees here at it's best!!!

And due to the new "Euro this" and "Euro that", we have become Metric in our sizes and these oldskool thread types are hard to find!

 

The 307 valve is normally open and closes when vacuum is applied. You can test yours to see if it operates the same way, but I bet it does. These systems were usually designed so that in the failure mode (vacuum lost or the valve fails to actuate), you still had heat and defrost.

 

OK the saga continues....

I've got everything back on, sourced a water temp switch here in the UK, temporarily hosed the heater valve until i get a bushing, a few other minor mods here and there, turned the key and.......... We have a result! The car fired up a treat and sounds awesome!

Couldn't see any issues at first so i let it tick over for a few minutes to raise the temp - Then the cracks began to appear.

Problem 1: There's moisture forming around the rubber seals of the intake. At first i assumed this was a disaster and prepared myself for attempting a re-fit, but then i noticed a whistling noise coming from the rad hose. It seems that the smaller of the 2 rad pies entering the intake has a leak and is pushing water out onto the front of the manifold. I'm hoping this is why there's water appearing and a tighten of all the bolts may cure this altogether.

Problem 2: There's a bit of smoke coming out of the exhaust. More so than I can remember before. It's not coloured in any way.

Problem 3: There's also moisture coming from the exhaust. Not a great amount but a very small puddle had formed on the floor under the pipes after about a minute of the engine running.

Problem 4: When applying the gas, the carb seems to take a big gulp of air before it takes hold of the fuel. Is this normal? I haven't had the car rolling yet so can't see if it's flatspotting. Probably just needs setting up right.

Other than that, it all seems good!

I do however have a niggle in my mind about potential intake leaks.

Would it be clearly obvious if there is an internal leak within the intake?
If the presence of moisture is due to an intake leak then there's every possibility it's leaking inside too right?

Would you recommend running a dose of Radweld through the system to help block any small gaps?
I read a similar thread on here where the guy simply did that and it seemed to stop the leak!!

 

The problem I have with this stuff is that if it plugs a hole that's causing a leak, don't you also worry that it will plug the tubes in the radiator core? Find the problem and fix it correctly. It's possible that the moisture is just condensation or coolant that got into the system during the removal of the old intake. A cooling system pressure test will tell you for sure if there's a leak you need to worry about.

The flat spot sounds like an accelerator pump or jetting adjustment. Also, I assume the timing is set correctly.

 

yeah I'll treat her to a good all round tune up once i'm happy there are no pressure leaks.

I'll go round with a torquer in the morning and make sure it's all tight, fix the leaking hose and try again. There's the slightest possibility it will be ok but I suppose the only way to rest assured is to take it off and do it again

Just out of interest, has anyone got any ideas for a new throttle linkage?
The original linkage bar is too short so will need to fashion something.

 

NO LEAK!
went round with the torquer and every bolt needed a tighten. I filled it back up with coolant and ran the engine for 10 mins.... not a single drop!

result.

 

good work --bet the olds is unusual in london

 

ha, yeah you could say that!
My friend also has a land yacht, '63 Buick Riviera, and when we go cruising we get lots of attention!

I've no proof yet but i'm pretty certain mine is the only '65 Delta 88 hard top sedan over here in the UK. There's a couple of 88 coupe's, an 88 convertible and a 98 pillared sedan. Very rare on these shores.

 

took her out for a spin today

didn't go far so couldn't really test properly, but the transmission seems to be hanging onto 1st gear a bit too long. Could this be something to do with the tranny vacuum line being on the wrong port?

I've got it hooked up to the "ported" barb rather that "manifold"

 

The trans vacuum line should always be connected to full manifold vacuum, not ported.