Need help understanding rocker arm ratio.

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Old Nov 23, 2012 | 04:34 PM
  #1  
Al2011's Avatar
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Angry Need help understanding rocker arm ratio.

Hi everyone,

I'm almost done with my first build but now I need rocker arms and pushrods. Everyones been a great help, thanks all.

How do i know what ratio rocker arms I will need? Do I buy the pushrods with the rockers or the rockers first so I can measure? I beleive my cam specs are. 228/236 at .050 on a 110 with around .568/.568 lift
I am running edelbrock heads
I posted my setup in June 2012 @ https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ion-461-a.html

I lost the card but trying contact the cam grinder too see if he still has a copy.

Last edited by Al2011; Nov 23, 2012 at 04:35 PM. Reason: change heading
Old Nov 23, 2012 | 04:56 PM
  #2  
2blu442's Avatar
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I don't know enough about this myself, but here's some old threads that may have some information for you. John

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...rm-ratios.html

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...r-rockers.html

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...cam-dumby.html
Old Nov 23, 2012 | 06:22 PM
  #3  
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For Edelbrock heads I'd use the HS 5016 1.6 ratio rockers or similar. That's what the lift is calculated with. Buy those first, then measure for the right pushrod length.

Last edited by cutlassefi; Nov 24, 2012 at 08:35 AM.
Old Nov 24, 2012 | 02:51 PM
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That's a pretty healthy cam grind for a street engine, and about what I'm running in my 455. I had the cam manufacturer custom grind the cam from 110 degrees to 114, for a little less overlap, and smoother idle. Also using Crane Hi Intensity lifters, that bleed down a bit at lower rpm's. Standard Olds rocker arms are 1.6, which means if the cam lobe is a .350" grind, the actual valve lift is at 160%, or .560". You're definitely wanting different pushrod lengths from stock, as your performance cam, is surely a different base circle grind from stock. I used a Dave Smith adjustible rocker arm kit, that set up just like a small block Chevy. Pretty sweet. My heads are iron Dave Smith street ported/polished units to my cc specs. Engine runs very strong, and not a bad street idle either. You're definitely wanting to get hold of your cam grind card, as gotta have it, if degreeing in your cam.
Old Nov 24, 2012 | 03:02 PM
  #5  
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A 114 would make it more lazy. His cam will idle fine with just a bit of lope.
It was suggested to install it on a 106 centerline so all you need to do is divide the intake duration @.050 by two, in this case 114, then subtract 106 from that. So he needs to see 8 degrees btdc for it to be on a 106 centerline.
Old Nov 24, 2012 | 04:27 PM
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Ain't nobody going to say my 455(461) build is lazy, as gotta keep the the cu in and good flowing heads into mind. I've built a few engines, and as a daily cruiser, rush our traffic is a rather important consideration to me. My car is also running a 700R4 od tranny and 3.73 posi axle on 255 rubber w/8.5" rims, so pretty good package. Gotta keep the whole package in mind.
Old Nov 24, 2012 | 04:29 PM
  #7  
cutlassefi's Avatar
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That explains it. That gear and tranny help no doubt.
Sounds like fun.
Old Nov 25, 2012 | 05:33 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by cutlassefi
A 114 would make it more lazy. His cam will idle fine with just a bit of lope.
It was suggested to install it on a 106 centerline so all you need to do is divide the intake duration @.050 by two, in this case 114, then subtract 106 from that. So he needs to see 8 degrees btdc for it to be on a 106 centerline.
I'm under the assumtion he's talking about the lobe displacement angle, not the intake centerline.
Old Nov 25, 2012 | 08:03 AM
  #9  
cutlassefi's Avatar
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Originally Posted by turbobill
I'm under the assumtion he's talking about the lobe displacement angle, not the intake centerline.
I understand that deltapace was talking about his cam being ground on a 114.
However I was describing how to degree the cam that Al2011 bought on a 106 intake centerline. I sold him that cam and that's the centerline I recommended it be installed on.
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