Need 455 roller cam ideas
#1
Need 455 roller cam ideas
Hi everyone,
I'm compiling parts for my 455 rebuild and it's time to start looking at cams. I'm looking for a roller cam that's maybe a little more then mild, maybe moderate. Maybe something a little better then a W-30 spec. I'm planning on using the car a lot so I don't want anything to radical but I would like to have the HP when I want it. I have power brakes and will probably install a vintage air unit at some time.
Here is what I have so far:
Stock block and crank 396021Fa
Speed pro 30 over pistons
Stock rods
Ga heads ported and polished, unsure if it has a 3 angle valve job
SS roller rockers
Crowe solid roller lifters
5/16 push rods
ARP main and head bolts
Edelbrook torker II manifold
Unsure what size carb I need, 700-750?
Th 400 trans, have an opportunity maybe to buy a 200-4r with a 3000 stall
HEI distributor, will probably get a pertornix igniter rebuilding kit
Keep in mind I know ZERO about the sizes of cam shafts so any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave
I'm compiling parts for my 455 rebuild and it's time to start looking at cams. I'm looking for a roller cam that's maybe a little more then mild, maybe moderate. Maybe something a little better then a W-30 spec. I'm planning on using the car a lot so I don't want anything to radical but I would like to have the HP when I want it. I have power brakes and will probably install a vintage air unit at some time.
Here is what I have so far:
Stock block and crank 396021Fa
Speed pro 30 over pistons
Stock rods
Ga heads ported and polished, unsure if it has a 3 angle valve job
SS roller rockers
Crowe solid roller lifters
5/16 push rods
ARP main and head bolts
Edelbrook torker II manifold
Unsure what size carb I need, 700-750?
Th 400 trans, have an opportunity maybe to buy a 200-4r with a 3000 stall
HEI distributor, will probably get a pertornix igniter rebuilding kit
Keep in mind I know ZERO about the sizes of cam shafts so any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave
Last edited by dfire25; February 24th, 2013 at 05:42 PM.
#2
all valve jobs i belive are standard 3 angle they have 3 angles changing the angles can improve airflow depend on application etc. Some valves have 5 angles cut into them. That whole subject is alittle above my head as far as the angles of the valve cuts go ., But from my knowledge all valves have 3 cuts or 3 angles. I would not do solid rollers i would do a hydraulic roller cam . talk to cutlassefi he can hook you up pretty well. The 200r4 is great if it's built to handle the power the th400 is bullet proof if you want a 3000 stall for it if thats what you build will require i have one im willing to sell. The big question is what are your goals with the car. Somre cruising and strip time or mainly crusiing.
Last edited by coppercutlass; February 24th, 2013 at 05:52 PM.
#3
The 200-4R is built to handle 750hp with nitrous. I got a great deal on the solid lifters so I would like to use them, $180 for the set. I got the heads for free but the guy can't remember if he did a valve job on them or not. They have harden seats to accept pump gas and have studs and pushrods guide plates.
#4
#6
My intentions were always to use hydronic but like I said I got a great deal on them and my buddy talked me into them. He has solid rollers on his 496 BB Chevy and hasn't had any problems with them.
#7
I cant speak from experience on that matter just my opinion . I have always ran flat tappet cams and had no issues. Some people fear wiping a lobe but it all comes down to proper break in procedure and using the proper lubes. I dont run the fastest car but it is dual purpose aswell.
#8
If you're stuck on the solid rollers then I'd do something in the mid 240@.050 range based on a 10.0:1 compression ratio.
But for best results you should install lifter bore restrictors when using a solid roller.
There are some advantages to a solid roller. But I'm with Copper, the new hydraulic roller stuff is real good and a lot easier on valvetrains than most solid roller profiles.
Best of luck in your build. Let me know if I can be of help.
But for best results you should install lifter bore restrictors when using a solid roller.
There are some advantages to a solid roller. But I'm with Copper, the new hydraulic roller stuff is real good and a lot easier on valvetrains than most solid roller profiles.
Best of luck in your build. Let me know if I can be of help.
#9
I'm not nessisarily stuck on solids, but I'm on a budget build right now. If you figure $500 for a cam and another $500 for hydraulic lifters then that gets expensive. I only paid $180 for the solid lifters so I'm maybe ahead $320. More money to spend on other things I need for the engine.
#10
The solid rollers might be good to sell and get hydraulic rollers. Solid rollers are usually very hard on springs and they need adjustment at least yearly. The springs generally don't lat as long due to aggressive ramp up or opening rates and closing then higher lifts.
Just my 2 cents worth. I went Hyd roller on all my last builds in past 10 years. Love them, no fear of ruining a cam or engine due to a cam/ lifter failure.
Just my 2 cents worth. I went Hyd roller on all my last builds in past 10 years. Love them, no fear of ruining a cam or engine due to a cam/ lifter failure.
#13
#14
Dick Miller, I've heard good things but never used him.
Mark (cutlassefi), I got my Erson hydraulic roller from him, not much street time yet but customer service was great.
#16
Since you already have the solid roller lifters, I would just get a hydraulic roller camshaft. I run this setup in my car for durability reasons. Lower spring pressures than solid roller cam profiles, easy on valvetrain parts, and no collapsing lifters. I have run as tight as .008 lash with no issues.
#17
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