Mondello Alum Valley Tray - Opinions?

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Old Nov 4, 2023 | 10:08 AM
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Mondello Alum Valley Tray - Opinions?

I had ordered one a few years back and thinking of using for a current 400E build. I want to run the stock cam baffle as I want to minimize the splash. I had used an earlier Mondello tray on an older build where it needed studs to mount it at an acceptable height (bends were different than current). Was thinking about doing the same with the current build and keep the factory baffle as it looks like there was some thought behind the design, whereas the "newer" Mondello tray now bolts directly to the block and is a replacement for the factory baffle.

Just wanted to know if it's even worth running. I've read the threads about the turkey tray, but I don't think I'm going to run one as I have Felpro aftermarket print--o-seal type gaskets. The main reason for buying the Modello tray was for heat reduction, but wondering if it actually does that. So I'd rather not use it if it doesn't provide anything useful. I may run a HSD intake(which I have) or considering a Performer RPM which will run cooler anyway due to the "air-gap", but unless someone has one for sale at a reasonable price I can't see spending $650 for that, so back to: What to do with my valley tray?
Old Nov 4, 2023 | 05:12 PM
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I have one. Worth it? Probably not. The factory one does a pretty good job of keeping the oil off the bottom of the intake. That said, it is still in the engine, but on studs to clear link bar roller lifters and above a factory unit.


Old Nov 4, 2023 | 05:16 PM
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What intake are you currently running? If you have the OE or an Edelbrock Performer style intake, have you blocked the exhaust crossover? No need to worry about heat from oil splash if you haven't blocked the exhaust crossover.
Old Nov 4, 2023 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Olds64
No need to worry about heat from oil splash if you haven't blocked the exhaust crossover.
Heat from the oil splash is not an issue. It’s the heat from the 1100 degree exhaust gases in the crossover burning the oil splash that is an issue.
Old Nov 4, 2023 | 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by fleming442
I have one. Worth it? Probably not. The factory one does a pretty good job of keeping the oil off the bottom of the intake. That said, it is still in the engine, but on studs to clear link bar roller lifters and above a factory unit.
Ya, that's what I was contemplating doing, similar set up. I have Edelbrock's so reading the other's have suggested the crossover being the "heat" issue.

Are those shaft rockers?
Old Nov 5, 2023 | 02:01 AM
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Originally Posted by OLDScience
Ya, that's what I was contemplating doing, similar set up. I have Edelbrock's so reading the other's have suggested the crossover being the "heat" issue.

Are those shaft rockers?
Yes, Jesel makes a set for Olds Edelbrock heads. T&D also makes them.
Old Nov 5, 2023 | 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by fleming442
Yes, Jesel makes a set for Olds Edelbrock heads. T&D also makes them.
Nice...
Another quick question...on this motor are you running grooved (for modified oiling) cam bearings? If you are, what are you using to seal the studs? I have Durabond "B" type bearings and just purchased an anaerobic sealer (like loctitie) with a gel like consistency from Anti-Seize (the company). First time for me running the B bearings, so curious if you are also running them.
Old Nov 5, 2023 | 04:21 PM
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Honestly, I didn't pay attention to what they were. It was a box of old ACS bearings I found in the cabinet and gave to the machinist that sleeved #8. I wouldn't stress too much about what tiny bit of oil might seep up those threads. I didn't use any sealer at all.
Old Nov 5, 2023 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by fleming442
Honestly, I didn't pay attention to what they were. It was a box of old ACS bearings I found in the cabinet and gave to the machinist that sleeved #8. I wouldn't stress too much about what tiny bit of oil might seep up those threads. I didn't use any sealer at all.
If they are grooved bearings, the holes in the bearings would not be installed at 6-o-clock, but at 2 or 3-o-clock. This way oiling comes up through the holes in the block and into the groove on the backside of the bearing and out of the hole at the 2 or 3 o clock position. This allows better oil flow from the hole because factory non grooved bearings installed at 6-o-clock allow the hole to get restricted as the cam journals push down and will "plug the hole" in a reaction to pushing up against valve spring pressure. You probably just have standard bearings and therefore no sealer would be required. If one has grooved, the baffle mounting holes need to be sealed.
Old Nov 7, 2023 | 04:14 PM
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Anything you can do to keep radiant heat off the intake helps. Oil does not actually splash that high..it’s radiant heat that’s the culprit.

Old Nov 7, 2023 | 04:31 PM
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What about the conducted heat through the either iron or aluminum intake manifold from the exhaust crossover? That would be the #1 source of heat.
Old Nov 7, 2023 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Fun71
What about the conducted heat through the either iron or aluminum intake manifold from the exhaust crossover? That would be the #1 source of heat.
#2 source would be conduction from the coolant at the front of the manifold.

A more distant #3 would be radiation.

To verify this last statement, look at https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/r...fer-d_431.html. About halfway down on that page, look at Radiation Heat Transfer Calculator based on equation (3). Enter emissivity of 0.6, hot surface (block) temperature of 100°C (212°F), cold surface (manifold) temperature of 35°C (95°F), 0.28 sq. meters (3 sq. feet) hot area, and see the result of 106 watts (360 Btu per hour).
Old Nov 8, 2023 | 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Fun71
What about the conducted heat through the either iron or aluminum intake manifold from the exhaust crossover? That would be the #1 source of heat.
yes
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