442 Guatemala

Hello I just build my 400 engine (1966 442) like 2 months ago, I just put only like 400 km on it.

I build my car for street/competition aplications, It has a the mondello JM 3-4 camshaft. you can see the specifications in this link

http://www.mondellotwister.com/Camshafts.htm

now Im using mineral Quaker 15w40 oil, but in a few more kms I need to change the oil, im thinking on using a 20w50. The question is: is better to use a mineral or a full synthetic oil in my car.

Some people recomendme to use the valvoline racing VR1 oil because they have zinc and phosphorous, and this VR1 is available in Mineral or Full syntetic
is that a good choice for me?

what oil you recomend me to use, mineral, synthetic, racing, any brand?

by the way my normal operating engine temperature is 200 (I think is kind of overheating ?) so I need an oil that relly supports high temperature without loosing the weight

thanks for the advices

64Rocket

I use the Valvoline VR-1 20w50 mineral oil. I change my oil very often so the synthetic is very costly for me. The synthetic is a very good oil for the street car.
For your running hot ,You might check you timing. I run 20* at 950 rpm with 36* total at 2500 rpm. I do not run a vacuum advance.
Also, your machine shop my have the piston to cyl wall clearance to tight.
Gene

442 Guatemala

I just set my total timing to 36 total. I run like at 5 oil pressure at 850 rpm when the engine is hot 200 degree.

when I build my engine I think I live some clearances kind of tight: I leave .002 on mains and .001 on Rods, I dont know if im having problems because of that.

As for the oil pressure, when I just accelerate a little bit I go up to 40 at 2000 rpm

J-(Chicago)

That's too tight.

Rods should be .0025" and mains should be .0030" in my opinion. Rod side should be around .018"
If your clearances are too tight you should have your crankshaft cut accordingly.

J-(Chicago)

I'd run thin oil to make sure it gets where it needs to be.

cutlassefi

Sorry but that's the dumbest thing I've ever heard. Even at 10 psi do you think the oil isn't going to go everywhere cuz it's a bit heavier? If you spill it on your garage floor does it stop traveling when it gets to a small crack? Probably not huh?

Common misconception, more psi is better, wrong!! If you have 10-15 psi at idle and 40 cruising down the road, plenty. If you have a flat tappet cam, you're right, you need zinc etc. I would use the lightest, BEST quality oil you can, then add a GM EOS or similar additive to make sure your cam lives, especially since you don't have many miles on it. Using an inferior 20W-50 vs a better 10W-40 doesn't guarantee it will hold iup better under heat. Again use a good quality oil, and that ain't Quaker State.

Another reason to run a roller.

MN71W30

Cutlassfi,
J- chicago was probably talking about a cold startup. Check out the link, You probably know all this already but read it anyway, maybe you missed something. http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136052

cutlassefi

Yes, I've read this before. A buddy of mine is an Amsoil dealer.
I believe I said light oil, the same as this article. It also suggests that heavier oil won't necessarily hold up better in the heat vs. lighter oil. Again, I believe I said that as well.

And I also made mention of the fact that you don't need alot of oil pressure to ensure "it will get where it needs to go" by the garage floor example.

Very true, alot of misconceptions when it comes to oil. I stand by my original advice, use the BEST, lightest oil possible that'll give you ample pressure with an additive to ensure long cam life.

442 Guatemala

This Saturday I worried about my car, because this is what happend to me

I take my car for a ride, like for a 45 min, when the temperature goes up to 200-210 in Iddle my oil pressure goes down to 0 (cero), but when Im jus put a llitle gas on the pedal (1500-2500 rpm) I go up again to like 30-40 psi, what is happenign to me?

Do I need to change for a 20w50 oil? I'm worried about my car, I don't know if I'm damaging my engine?

What else can I do to solve the temperature problem?

Im using the following for cooling system

1. Aluminum made in china radiator that I buy on E-bay
2. New watter pump that I buy from mondello
3. 16" single electric fan with 3,000 cfm
4. New hig flow thermostat 160 degree
5. Flex-a-lite 1318 - Flex-a-lite Wide Blade Flex Fan 18.25 in diameter
6. I set my total timming to 36
7. Im not using a fan shroud, wich one do you recomend?
8. Im not using a fan clutch
9. Im using a competition mondello cam (JM 3-4) with .522 lift and 230/238 duration at .05

Any suggestions please

thanks

svnt442

Ditch flex fan. They like to fly apart and rip things to shreds.
Get a shroud and a clutch fan.
As far as the oil pressure goes are you using a mechanical gauge or an electric? If it's a mechanical I would be worried.

J-(Chicago)

I have some suggestions. Some you will like and some you may not. Keep in mind these are my own opinions and I'm not driving the fastest Oldsmobile in the world.


1. That aluminum radiator should be at least a 3 row with a small block and a 4 row with a big block.
2. The water pump is fine.
3. Run 2 electric fans, a pusher on the front, and a puller on the back
4. 160 is a good choice.
5. throw the flex fan in the garbage.
6. Drop the timing down to 32. Use 36 at the race track.
7. you don't need a fan shroud with the proper radiator and elec. fans
8. Don't need that clutch either
9. That cam is way too big if you're running stock heads and springs.
10. If you're worried about the oil pressure, pull the motor apart, and get
some wider clearances by getting the crank turned and polished to your preferred journal size.
11. Run a melling high volume oil pump and a deeper pan.

442 Guatemala

3. I already have 1 pusher fan that is 3000 cfm, I need to buy another one then
9. Im using my stock B Heads, but the springs, rockers and push rods has been changed for that cam
10. Im not sure about pulling the engine, because when I just start my engine, when is cold I have like 40-50 of oil pressure, the problem is after using my car like for 45 min and the temperature is at 200-210 is when I start loosign oil pressure, why is that??? is like the oil is getting too thin. Anyways if I use my car like in a freeway at 50-60 kph, my temperature is about 180-190. thats why im thinking to change to the valvoline VR1 20w50????
11. Im already using a Hight volume, High pressure blue print oil pump, that I buy from oldsmobile performance.

442 Guatemala

wich fan is recomended to use?
I have a mechanical gauge, but the problem of oil pressure is only after I use my car like for 45 min and my temp is runing at 200-210?? is like the oil is getting to thin???

442 Guatemala

Common misconception, more psi is better, wrong!! If you have 10-15 psi at idle and 40 cruising down the road, plenty. If you have a flat tappet cam, you're right, you need zinc etc. I would use the lightest, BEST quality oil you can, then add a GM EOS or similar additive to make sure your cam lives, especially since you don't have many miles on it. Using an inferior 20W-50 vs a better 10W-40 doesn't guarantee it will hold iup better under heat. Again use a good quality oil, and that ain't Quaker State.

when I start my engine I add a bottle of ZDDPplus to the oil, is that the same as the GM EOS.

If I use valvoline VR1 oil it suposed to have zinc,etc, is necesary to add extra additive?

Olds64

I use 15W40 Rotella T in my Oldsmobile. I've heard it is a good motor oil. It must have more detergents in it since it is a diesel oil. I know diesel fuel has alot of soot and carbon in it.

MN71W30

You need to figure out why you have ZERO oil pressure at a hot idle. Confirm the readings with another gauge then you probably need to pull the motor. I would pull the filter and cut the cover off and check for bearing material inbetween the folds of the filter. If it looked clean I'd pull the pan and remove a rod cap and main cap. I'd consider checking the tolerance with plastic gauge. There is a chance someone installed the wrong bearings. I had the same thing happen once and it was the oil pump, and that would be the cheapest fix. Good luck my friend.
Dave

442 Guatemala

Do you think im having air in my cooling system and thats why im running too hot? if yes how to fix that?

380 Racer

Try using a good 20-50 racing oil. see what the pressures do with that. Make sure your radiator cap, thermostat are good for the heating problem.

All this is IMHO.

442_Mustang

Look into Brad Penn oil. My engine guy swears by it. Jeff at Wheeler racing engines

380 Racer

That's what I use also.