joepenoso

On my way to replace the camshaft I also removed the heads and intake manifold. After removing the pullies , alternator, power steering, it was time to remove the damper bolt. You know the big one.....100 ft. lb's of torque.....maybe more. After the water pump is out of the way, think I can stuff a rag between the timing chain and sprocket and loosen the bolt that way?
How about using an impact driver on the bolt with my mini sledge to persuade it to come off?
Any other ideas?
Thanks
joepenoso

tru-blue 442

Joe, a 1/2" impact with an extension
and a six point socket, with at least 125
psi behind it will be your
best friend at this point.
Should spin it right off...

1970-W30

My crude way is to put a long breaker bar on the socket bring it around to the drivers side frame so it makes contact, then just bump the starter. Presto, the bolt is loose.
Mind you this is just a suggestion, some guys don't feel comfortable doing this.
ps; make sure coil wire is grounded so engine does not start......

joepenoso

Actually I was thinking of putting one cylinder head back and stuffing soft rope into the cylinder. I think I will try the starter trick 1st in case I can't borrow my neighbours rattle gun.
Thanks
joepenoso

Tony72Cutlass'S'

4 foot long breaker bar and blip the starter.

Works every time.

KDV

I've also put 2 long bolts in the 5/16" holes on the front of the damper and wedged a long screwdriver or die-bar between them so that I'm poised to spin the engine clockwise while turning on the bolt counter-clockwise with a 1/2" breaker bar.

It also works in reverse to tighten the bolt back to 160 ft lbs.

Run to Rund

I use a long bolt in the flywheel or flex plate to converter to block the engine.

BILL DEMMER

when you put it together, use a soft setting sealer, like hi tack, on the inside area of the balancer, where it seats against the crank snout. it will seep oil if you don't.


bill