I dropped my 455 off at the engine shop a couple days ago and they sent me the cost estimate today. They are suggesting that I groove the lifter bores for $100+ . Is this nessessary? I have been doing quite a bit of research and this procedure hasn’t come up.

also, the estimate for checking /machining the engine (minus the heads), and supplying all the parts including a set of used kB132 pistons is $3,300. This is with me assembling it. Does this seem like too much or does it sound about right?

thanks for any advise you guys can offer up.

 

I have never heard of grooving lifter bores, so I would say it is not needed.

As for the machining costs, I have no idea where you are so there's no way to know if those are typical for the region or not.

 

the shop is in Sioux Falls, SD.

 

Maybe they are suggesting the lifter bores be knurled if they are worn so much the lifters would bleed oil pressure excessively. Never heard of this happening.

 

I would have them explain what they are talking about better. Depending on their answer, I would maybe be looking for a new machine shop. Lots more bad machine shops out there than good ones. At least in my area it is that way.

 

Grooving the lifter bores to aid oiling of cam lobes is not unheard of. If it is necessary or not is open for speculation.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...grooving-tools

 

Correct, and it's not necessary. The lifters and cam in an Olds get plenty of oil.
Have him detail what's being done and how much each procedure is. Then we can get a better idea.

 

well I would have done it at a place I know of locally but this shop (which is 1.5 hours away) is the only place I could find that has torque plates for the olds engines. The guy at the local shop I usually go to actually called around to see if he could find another shop in the area that had any olds torque plates but couldn’t find any either.

 

Here is the estimate...

 

I would check out the shop more. One thought would be to have the engine bored with torque plates and have the rest of the work done at the local shop you are comfortable with.

 

Just an FYI for everyone, you don't bore with torque plates, you hone with them.

 

I didn't see balancing the rotating assembly on the list.

I think my shop charged me $2,300 including the Wiseco pistons. That was for hot tank, boring, decking, line-honing, new freeze plugs, rod recon, assembling pistons, polishing the crank, and balancing. No head work or other parts included.

Good luck with the build!

 

7th line down..............

 

Ahh, my bad. My balancing was $5 cheaper. I win!

 

Did the factory use torque plates back in the day?

 

No.

 

I was another one that thought the torque plate was used for boring. Thanks, Mark, for clearing that up.

 

The engine guy is saying that the stock head and main bolts should be strong enough for this build. This is interesting to me because it seems that I’ve seen a lot of ppl online using ARP bolts. Do I need them?

He did recommend using arp rod bolts though. I told him I prob didn’t want them. I read in Bill Trovatos book that they aren’t needed because the factory ones are usually strong enough. How bout dat?

 

HEY
Happy Motoring

here it is less money to have crankshaft fresh ground than your est polish job

i would leave those lifter bores alone

If you have any other shops around ,,,, "relatively" close go for second / third estimates.

 

rod bolts

if you are using all stock bolts everywhere else
go with the OEM rod bolts. The recondition job should include them being checked good for bend and stretch. If they are up to code Buy a set of new rod nuts and install as directed (ARP Lube)

 

Thanks. It will be my first car with any kind of power.