Leakdown test
#1
Leakdown test
I performed a leakdown test on my 425 in my '66 Toronado, and all cylinders don't look too bad, but when I test cylinder 4 and am putting air pressure into the cylinder, the gauge that indicates leakdown percentage climbs very slowly until I get 80 lbs into the cylinder. Then the leakdown gauge all of a sudden jumps up and reads correctly. It's almost like something in the cylinder is not sealing until the air pressure gets past a certain value. What is the most likely cause of this? Can piston rings exhibit this behavior? I still need to do a compression test, so I don't know how this cylinder behaves while cranking. Thanks all!
#3
^x2^
Generally, perform a leak down test when prior results suggest further diagnostics. (1) Perform both a dry and a wet compression test on each cylinder - compare results between dry & wet; (2) Perform a basic vacuum test noting readings suggested from chart below.
Generally, perform a leak down test when prior results suggest further diagnostics. (1) Perform both a dry and a wet compression test on each cylinder - compare results between dry & wet; (2) Perform a basic vacuum test noting readings suggested from chart below.
#5
I'm probably trying to create an issue, honestly. It was just out of the ordinary as no other cylinder did this. I started with leakdown testing because I was assuming the worst with a case of disappearing coolant. Then I pressure tested the radiator and found a loose hose clamp (go figure lol). I'm going through and replacing valve springs just because I don't know how old they are.
I'm leaning towards sticky rings still because if I remove the air pressure from the cylinder and then refill, it does the same thing. I would think you'd have to turn the motor over to recreate that "problem" if it really was a valve causing that.
I'm leaning towards sticky rings still because if I remove the air pressure from the cylinder and then refill, it does the same thing. I would think you'd have to turn the motor over to recreate that "problem" if it really was a valve causing that.
#7
the valve stem seals are still soft and pliable, so I didn't change them out. Intake side on all of them was some sort of weird seal, might be that positive lock type you're talking about, unless factory used different seals on intake and exhaust valves. The exhaust seals are just regular umbrella seals.
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