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I am trying to find out what 455 I have. L9E0 stamped on the left front pad. All the info I have found mentions at least six numbers of the VIN? It does have a 70-72 iron 4bbl intake and a pilot bushing in the crank. 396021F. "C" Heads. Thanks in advance.
I found this on oldsjunction.classicoldsmobile.com
For marine engines, there is a number that begins with an "L". This strange "VIN derivative" (or engine unit number) number starting with L denotes a marine motor. This may appear something like "L8E00", where L = Marine or irrigation engine, 8 = 1968 model year, and E00 = engine serial number (although there are usually more digits in the serial number). There might also be a drill spot on the pad.
It looks like it is a boat/irrigation motor. This may explain why I can not turn the crank. Hopefully I did not end up with a boat anchor. The rocker arms and top of the heads look almost new after removing the valve covers. Anymore input would be greatly appreciated.
404521 is the '70 455 automatic transmission intake manifold
I believe there are at least 4 "C" heads: big VS. small intake valve & small heat crossover (early) VS. big heat crossover (late)
early VS. late took place during 1968 model year
do you have a full pic of crank flange? block appears to be cast 70th day 1968 = Monday 3/11/68
Last edited by hurst68olds; Oct 21, 2020 at 11:25 PM.
I have a friend who asked a question here on CO and was pissed because he didn't get any responses but had lots of views. I don't know the answer to your question and apparently neither do the first 60 viewers, but I looked at your thread along with other threads that seems interesting to me, just for something to read about Oldsmobiles... I usually go thru CO every morning. Just because someone views your thread and doesn't answer it doesn't mean they think you are a idiot or not worthy of a answer. Looks like you got at least a drilled crank- that is sort of unusual I hear. Hopefully you will get your answer, give it some time...
The OP found the answer himself in Post #3. That block is from a non-automotive application. Could be industrial, could be marine. Only engines originally installed in production cars got VIN derivative stamps. Olds sold a lot of motors for non-automotive applications.
The OP found the answer himself in Post #3. That block is from a non-automotive application. Could be industrial, could be marine. Only engines originally installed in production cars got VIN derivative stamps. Olds sold a lot of motors for non-automotive applications.
That is a really cool ad, Joe. I love the stuff you put on here. Sometimes if I don't have a lot to do I look thru some of the option sheets you post and day dream about ordering a new 1969 442 or whatever....
The OP found the answer himself in Post #3. That block is from a non-automotive application. Could be industrial, could be marine. Only engines originally installed in production cars got VIN derivative stamps. Olds sold a lot of motors for non-automotive applications.
Thanks Joe, it took me a couple of hours to find the info.
404521 is the '70 455 automatic transmission intake manifold
I believe there are at least 4 "C" heads: big VS. small intake valve & small heat crossover (early) VS. big heat crossover (late)
early VS. late took place during 1968 model year
do you have a full pic of crank flange? block appears to be cast 70th day 1968 = Monday 3/11/68
I can get a picture, it is a rectangle U notch. Greg mentions a drilled crank?
I can get a picture, it is a rectangle U notch. Greg mentions a drilled crank?
The U notch is the run of the mill nodular crank. This photo shows MT (left) and AT cranks. Note how the MT crank has a much deeper hole with a bore for the pilot bearing and clearance for the input shaft.
The U notch is the run of the mill nodular crank. This photo shows MT (left) and AT cranks. Note how the MT crank has a much deeper hole with a bore for the pilot bearing and clearance for the input shaft.
Here is what I have and I need a MT crank. Notch is not very visible.
Here is what I have and I need a MT crank. Notch is not very visible.
What are we looking at there? Is that an AT crank with a conversion bushing pressed into it? Can't really see the details of the end of the crank with that bushing in place. Why not just machine the one you have for a pilot bearing?
That looks like 68-69 MT crank. 70 and up had a groove for a snap ring
It looks like an AT crank with a conversion bushing pressed in, but as I noted it's hard to tell with that bushing in place. A real MT crank would have another step where the pilot bearing would go.
I like the ad Joe posted has the weights of the 350 engine and the 455 engine. Seems as if this comes up a lot with engine swaps and folks thinking they need to "beef up" the front end for the "heavier" 455 engine. The ad shows the dry weight for the 455-4bbl is 32 pounds more than the 350-4bbl.
I like the ad Joe posted has the weights of the 350 engine and the 455 engine. Seems as if this comes up a lot with engine swaps and folks thinking they need to "beef up" the front end for the "heavier" 455 engine. The ad shows the dry weight for the 455-4bbl is 32 pounds more than the 350-4bbl.
Yup, as has been pointed out frequently in the past. I'm more intrigued by the fact that the 4bbl motors are 5lb heavier than the 2bbl motors.
So back to the OP I pulled one head today. This was definitely a boat engine, in a boat that sank. It looks like someone took all of the tin off of it in an attempt salvage it. The cam, intake and heads look pretty decent. The problem is they backed off all of the valves and left the spark plugs in, no way for it to ever dry out. There was still water in a couple of the cylinders and it will need at least one sleeve. Why go through all of that effort and not blow out the cylinders and shoot some oil in there? Hopefully the crank is not junk and a useable MT crank. Seller said it was out of a Hurst Olds. Lie. I paid $150 for it if I can get heads, intake and a crank out of it I will feel like I left the table with the money I came in with.
I was able to tear down the engine. Heads look salvageable. Crank, rods and all caps look good. Block is standard bore and will need a couple of sleeves if we use it. I also found this water pump. I will not be using the water pump and I believe it is a good core. Bearing does turn. I will take fair offers for the pump. Will consider full/partial trade for exhaust manifolds, Q-jet or local good F block. I am in Phoenix AZ, replacing a 260 in a 1977 442. SOLD
The U notch is the run of the mill nodular crank. This photo shows MT (left) and AT cranks. Note how the MT crank has a much deeper hole with a bore for the pilot bearing and clearance for the input shaft.
I was able to get the bushing out. Does this crank look like it is drilled correctly? It is an "N" crank. Rock auto list this pilot bearing on their site that measures about the same OD.
I pulled one head today. This was definitely a boat engine, in a boat that sank. It looks like someone took all of the tin off of it in an attempt salvage it. The cam, intake and heads look pretty decent. The problem is they backed off all of the valves and left the spark plugs in, no way for it to ever dry out. There was still water in a couple of the cylinders and it will need at least one sleeve. Why go through all of that effort and not blow out the cylinders and shoot some oil in there? Hopefully the crank is not junk and a useable MT crank. Seller said it was out of a Hurst Olds. Lie. I paid $150 for it if I can get heads, intake and a crank out of it I will feel like I left the table with the money I came in with.
