MrOldV8

I'm sure this has been covered somewhere in here but I can't find it. I'm dropping a '70 455 into my '65 Cutlass vert. I'll be doing a mild build (cam, headers) and want to know what you guys think would be the best aluminum intake for me to use. This will be a stoplight cruiser. The Pro Comp Eliminator looks interesting, are they any good?

Thanks,
Mr.

oldsmobiledave

With the limited mods to the engine and no other info I vote Edelbrock Performer.

hookem horns

Or stock iron, but does weigh a ton.

chadman

x2

wr1970

x3

cutlassefi

X4.

seansolds

X5.

70cutty

X6 I guess

VI Cutty

Look at the power range of the intakes you're looking at. I've been asking similar questions and it seems the Edelbrock Torker makes good power at the higher RPMs while the Performer does a better job at the lower/mid RPMs typical of a street car. I don't know where the Eliminator fits in there.

I will likely be going with a Performer when I build mine.

Mspalding3

I guess the choice here is kind of simple lol

oldcutlass

Just curious but do you have a link to the procomp manifold?

MrOldV8

Is the procomp the air gap manifold? Seems like I'm seeing these with no name on ebay, and I think edelbrock has a version. Isn't it good at low R's too? I also have a Holley double-pumper, four-squirter 780 that I used on my 390 Fairlane in the 60's. Any thoughts there?

oldcutlass

Can you post a link to the Procomp manifold?

MrOldV8

sold at O'Riellys part #57026

oldcutlass

Its similar to an Edelbrock Airgap 1500-6500 rpm, If your only doing a mild build I'd probably run something from idle to 5500. Also measure to be sure you can fit it and a carb under your flat hood.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PFS-57026/

wr1970

The performer will fit. I have a new airgap comp. The guy i got it from said it wouldn't fit with a flat 65 hood. That is how i got it on a trade for the performer.

MrOldV8

I'm OK with molding in a raised hood detail of some kind.

wr1970

Then if you do mold the hood to accept a taller intake your choices with better motor parts not stock would be airgap,torker.I am using a torker on the street 468 ci with ARH 2" headers 11/1 comp ebrock heads.If you leave the motor stock the performer in the best intake.My car went 12.50 with a 461ci" stock motor pretty much except for being bored and forged pistons and performer intake.Car weighs 3750 with me in it.

ioldsnut

Just an FIY... We just dyno'ed a 455, comp cam, 30over bore and the rest stock. Running a Q-jet and alum. aftermarket W30 intake.. Then we put a stock cast iron intake on it with no other changes and picked up 10hp and 12ftlbs torque... Just passing that along for what its worth...

wr1970

The one thing that you can make read all kinds of numbers. These dyno debates go on forever. Not to say this wasn't your result .Also what comp cam.I think a w30 intake and Iron intake vs performer.The performer wins hands down in the real world.Ask me how i know.

61reoldsman

I understand that the intake running cooler with the aluminum will help with any detonation issues. My buddy told me his Mopar friend had issues with pinging with the cast iron manifold and when he swapped out for the aluminum intake the pinging stopped .

MrOldV8

Here's where I stand right now. I picked up a Torker at a swap meet for $90.00 & it's clean as a whistle. I want to go full roller with the lifters and rockers. I guess Harland-Sharp is the only way to go for somebody like me. The guy I got the manifold from says he's built some quick Oldsmobiles. He recommends some kind of Lunati cam. My heads will remain stock. I'll probably use the 780 Holley 4-squirter I had in the 60's.
We put an adapter under the carb to coverf the quadrajet pattern. I'm going to get a fiberglass cowl hood, so clearance won't be a problem.
This is a VERY slow project. My son and I will inspect the bottom end, put in a new oil pump, and button it up. The engine and the turbo 400 were supposedly rebuilt years ago, put into a '57 Chevy truck and not driven much. I have no reason to doubt that based on what I'm finding.

I'll be putting new bushings in the suspension and replacing front end parts just to get the engine and trans in so I can drive it before I assume room temperature. (I'll be 70 next year). I think I'll have to replace the harmonic balancer...just because it's got old rubber in it. Any suggestions?

ALSO...Anyone have an oil slinger for sale? Mine's missing in my garage mess somewhere.

Thanks for your help. I'm a Ford guy that has always had a soft spot in my heart for Oldsmobiles. So go easy on me as I ask for direction.

Thanks,
MR

cutlassefi

A Torker with stock heads couldn't be more wrong. Sell it for $150.00 and get a Performer.

wr1970

X2 sell the torker unless you do more work to heads.

MrOldV8

OK...What type of head work should be done?

cutlassefi

Based on your original statement of "mild build", no head work should be done. Sell the Torker and buy a Performer.

MrOldV8

Thanks for the advise. It means a lot!

wr1970

What pistons are being used,bore, ring pack,oil mods,stroke of crank, cam,oil pump, these can tell at what level of mild build. No need to go torker intake and head mods if the build doesn't require a up grade intake more than a performer. JMO

oldsmobiledave

The 1st 6 people to reply to the thread replied that you should buy an Edelbrock Performer. 6 months later you buy a Torker.

What was the point is asking if you were going to ignore the overwhelming consensus?

MrOldV8

Actually, that's a very good question. The guy we got the manifold from is an Olds guy and seemed to know his stuff. Anyway, it's like somebody here said...we can sell it and make a few bucks. Please don't think I don't value your opinions. I'm learning as I go.

MR

android 211

If he is a knowledgeable Olds guy and he was selling it what does that tell you? In regards to porting you don't have to be an expert to do a little pocket porting as long as you don't go wild. Smooth the bowl area. Knock off the 'EGR' bumps in the roof of the exhaust ports. Take a little off the pushrod guide bulge in the intake ports. Smooth the exhaust ports but don't take anything off the floors, there's no flow there. Performers are like belly buttons, everybody has one. They're expensive too. You'd get more out of porting the heads and running the iron intake. I like the look of a vintage intake on an old car; a O4B Edelbrock would look good and they come up on ebay all the time. Plus most are square flange. Keep the Torker only if you're running a 4 speed and 3.90s out back.

wr1970

Just because you like iron intakes doesn't make it better. Performer intakes can be found used at good price.

cutlassefi

From the multiple combinations I've dyno'd I think the Performer is quite possibly the most underrated intake out there. You can easily make 500 and beyond with that intake, and still make very respectable torque.

rad

what usually the difference with performer vs cast iron in your experience? I have an offenhauser (the single plane one that looks like dual plane) and i have some of the older spread bore cast iron ones.

cutlassefi

Apples to apples 20-25hp across the board.
Ditch the Offy, they're junk. The only good intake they make imo is the Port O Sonic.

rad

I'm not to crazy about the Offy either its a square bore intake and i pretty much run quadrajets so as i get further with this build ill probably look for a performer

oldsmobiledave

And the Super Sonic in my opinion. Apart from the Super and the Port O the Offy is junk.

All this time later and the Performer is still the right choice

rad

the performer has been a good all around intake for a lot of engines, what would be thd better choice between the offy and an early cast iron intake for say up to 5500 rpms? ive got a while before i need it i might just hold out for a used performer

rtanner

How do you know? btw I agree, but assuming you've got some xtra info to share

rtanner

This ^^^^^^^^