Just installed a performer intake and 600cfm Edelbrock carb an Msd ready to run distributor and Blaster 3 coil. Car starts up ok and was able to time it thing is when I put my foot on the brake pedal or hit the turn signal sometimes not always but alot it will start to sputter and run like crap sometimes the tach will bounce to zero and back to normal with no misfire. I think its an electrical issue Ive checked all conections but all looks good. Could it be a bad ground or would a bad voltage reg act like this? Dont know where to start next,any sugestions? Thanks

 

Sounds like a wiring problem in the column, maybe a loose wire or a short somewhere around the ignition switch - both of the events you describe can move or jostle the stuff inside the column.
See if it does it when you crank the wheel around hard or when you bang or pull on it.

- Eric

 

Thanks Eric Ill mess with it tomorrow and see if I find anything.

 

Eric the ignitions in the dash can a bad volt reg act like this?

 

Do you have a full 12 volts at that RTR distributor? Points run at 7-9 volts. Often missed detail.

 

Where did you hook the electric choke up to? many people make the mistake of hooking it up to the coil when they are seaching for a keyed source. This will cause the problem you have, just a thought. Dave E

 

Oh, yeah, you've got a '68.

I'd look around up above the column, just because you said it stalls when you step on the brake. I can't imagine a short in the brake / signal light system that would stall the engine, but I can imagine someone messing with a wire and tucking it up above the column, or passing it through the firewall near there, so that when you moved things in the area (like the brake pedal) just right, the wire grounded or disconnected.

Otherwise, I don't have any ideas...

- Eric

 

Thanks guys! I need to get 12v to the distributor (you were right grandpa) any suggestions where I should get it? Its a real tight fit at the ignition switch. Thanks again for the feedback guys.

 

I am running an MSD setup and when I eliminated the points setup I went to the wiring block on the firewall wher the harness goes into the interior, and I pulled the connector for the resistor wire, cut and removed the whole resistor wire and ran a new copper wire. I didn't see any reason to have an extra useless wire in the harness and this way the wiring should work like it's supposed to.