Octania

Heater hose nipple in the intake
Looks like a giant screwdriver might drive it [in, when not rusted]...

Anyone know where to find a tool for these?

What said tool is called?

I have always used the vice grips method after placing a dill bit inside to prevent collapse method. apply heat. and/or break the corner of the 2-bbl intake off.

Here is a left hand thead example [durr...]

Sampson

Interesting you posted this today. I am in process of swapping my intake and the back nipple on mine is badly corroded and pitted. Are new ones available? Like you I have always resorted the VG method of removal.

Octania

Joe P says in an old thread here that Dorman has 'em
dormanproducts.com

I gave up on navigating the site after a few minutes with no joy, but today I am impatient.

The Vendor Who Must Not Be Named also offers them, but who wants to patronize that kind of people?

Hawghead

Try here http://www.dormanproducts.com/gsearc...tart=25&num=25

Scott

MDchanic

I believe that NAPA has them, too, though they are not super easy to find there, either.

- Eric

m371961

You may be able to use this. Drag link socket.

m371961

Sorry, post didn't seem to work. Worked ok in preview. Drag link socket, various sizes are out there.

joe_padavano

I actually own a drag link socket, as it is needed to replace the idler arm on my 62. Great idea. I suspect that adding a tight-fitting tube over the socket and nipple will probably prevent "camming out" and save your knuckles.

BlackGold

Whenever I need a really broad "screwdriver" I grab a putty knife or scraper. If the nipple is rusted in place, I don't know if it'll give you enough leverage, but it's worth a try. Otherwise, how about a 6" piece of bar stock that's the right size to fit the slot? That would give you leverage.

Octania

Thanks guys
I *never* would have guessed that "drag link SOCKET" is the term for that tool, since a "socket" by definition has a cavity and not a protrusion.

I have seen those and never knew what they were for. There are dozens available on feepay. I ended up using the giant screwdriver / prybar and since I was installing new parts into clean threads, with sealer, it went smoothly.

I gotta get me one of them screwdriver "sockets" I guess.

oldolds88

one side of it does have a cavity, for the ratchet.

ELY442

I have one of those sockets made by Snap On but it didnt work for me. The fitting was oxidized into the manifold that even a vise grip or a pipe wrench couldnt get it off. I had to bring it to a machine shop and they had to drill it off and use a tap to make new threads.

Octania

Well so does an extension, and a Hex Drive bit, and a #2 Phillips driver bit. But we don't call those "sockets" as far as I know. Since every tool that fits a ratchet has a square cavity or "socket" to accept that drive tool, we generally differentiate among such tools by describing the other end of the device.

I ended up procuring two Snap-On "sockets" for cheap:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261557894327...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Thanks for the tips, folks!

oldolds88

relax chris, didnt mean to upset anyone with the comment. by the way,the other olds site has a craigslist ad for an 86 442 clone with a solid main web 403.
and it in lansing

http://lansing.craigslist.org/cto/4598833606.html

m371961

I have 3 or 4 in different sizes I picked up through the years. Some cars and a lot of trucks used a drag link that attached to a ball on the pitman arm. The drag link had a threaded cap that held in a spring and two socket like pieces that locked on the ball.
I would put tape on the sides of the bit to make it fit tight in the slot and tap it in with a hammer.

Octania

Aha, so it's a "(drag link socket) tool" and not a "drag link (socket [tool])"

That explains the perceived glaring discrepancy in naming conventions.

I expect to grind or fit a tube to the OD of one of these tools to keep it centered on the nipple, and we'll see if an impact removes a rusty nipple or destroys it. Someday.

m371961

I don't know about the impact. I make it fit tight in the nipple slot, use a breaker bar and heat the manifold around the threads.