Heater hose nipple in the intake
Looks like a giant screwdriver might drive it [in, when not rusted]...

Anyone know where to find a tool for these?

What said tool is called?

I have always used the vice grips method after placing a dill bit inside to prevent collapse method. apply heat. and/or break the corner of the 2-bbl intake off.

Here is a left hand thead example [durr...]

 

Interesting you posted this today. I am in process of swapping my intake and the back nipple on mine is badly corroded and pitted. Are new ones available? Like you I have always resorted the VG method of removal.

 

Joe P says in an old thread here that Dorman has 'em
dormanproducts.com

I gave up on navigating the site after a few minutes with no joy, but today I am impatient.

The Vendor Who Must Not Be Named also offers them, but who wants to patronize that kind of people?

 

Try here http://www.dormanproducts.com/gsearc...tart=25&num=25

Scott

 

I believe that NAPA has them, too, though they are not super easy to find there, either.

- Eric

 

You may be able to use this. Drag link socket.

 

Sorry, post didn't seem to work. Worked ok in preview. Drag link socket, various sizes are out there.

 

I actually own a drag link socket, as it is needed to replace the idler arm on my 62. Great idea. I suspect that adding a tight-fitting tube over the socket and nipple will probably prevent "camming out" and save your knuckles.

 

Whenever I need a really broad "screwdriver" I grab a putty knife or scraper. If the nipple is rusted in place, I don't know if it'll give you enough leverage, but it's worth a try. Otherwise, how about a 6" piece of bar stock that's the right size to fit the slot? That would give you leverage.

 

Thanks guys
I *never* would have guessed that "drag link SOCKET" is the term for that tool, since a "socket" by definition has a cavity and not a protrusion.

I have seen those and never knew what they were for. There are dozens available on feepay. I ended up using the giant screwdriver / prybar and since I was installing new parts into clean threads, with sealer, it went smoothly.

I gotta get me one of them screwdriver "sockets" I guess.

 

one side of it does have a cavity, for the ratchet.

 

I have one of those sockets made by Snap On but it didnt work for me. The fitting was oxidized into the manifold that even a vise grip or a pipe wrench couldnt get it off. I had to bring it to a machine shop and they had to drill it off and use a tap to make new threads.

 

Well so does an extension, and a Hex Drive bit, and a #2 Phillips driver bit. But we don't call those "sockets" as far as I know. Since every tool that fits a ratchet has a square cavity or "socket" to accept that drive tool, we generally differentiate among such tools by describing the other end of the device.

I ended up procuring two Snap-On "sockets" for cheap:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261557894327...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Thanks for the tips, folks!

 

relax chris, didnt mean to upset anyone with the comment. by the way,the other olds site has a craigslist ad for an 86 442 clone with a solid main web 403.
and it in lansing

http://lansing.craigslist.org/cto/4598833606.html

 

I have 3 or 4 in different sizes I picked up through the years. Some cars and a lot of trucks used a drag link that attached to a ball on the pitman arm. The drag link had a threaded cap that held in a spring and two socket like pieces that locked on the ball.
I would put tape on the sides of the bit to make it fit tight in the slot and tap it in with a hammer.

 

Aha, so it's a "(drag link socket) tool" and not a "drag link (socket [tool])"

That explains the perceived glaring discrepancy in naming conventions.

I expect to grind or fit a tube to the OD of one of these tools to keep it centered on the nipple, and we'll see if an impact removes a rusty nipple or destroys it. Someday.

 

I don't know about the impact. I make it fit tight in the nipple slot, use a breaker bar and heat the manifold around the threads.