Header Bolt snapped off in head - How bad?
#1
Header Bolt snapped off in head - How bad?
I recently bought a pair of used "C" heads. Inspection revealed that the center header bolt is broken off in both heads. They look good otherwise.
Is this; A. Minor at the shop. B. Major at the shop C. A real crying in my beer disaster ??
George
Is this; A. Minor at the shop. B. Major at the shop C. A real crying in my beer disaster ??
George
#4
It's "C" if it happens on the engine in your daily driver..."A" if the heads are bare and you can take to machine shop, or want to try Kroil/PB Blaster and a QUALITY screw extractor.
Steve
Steve
#6
Hey neighbor!
I agree with the other posts. Shouldn't be a big deal. Did you end up buying a motor or just the heads so far? I think you said you were looking at a '76 455 if I remember right.
John
#7
Update on the motor plan;
I'm driving this sat. to get a 455 block, TH400 core and rebuilt posi from
Brian Trick.
I am really pleased with all the members that have offered advice.
Thanks everyone.
George
I'm driving this sat. to get a 455 block, TH400 core and rebuilt posi from
Brian Trick.
I am really pleased with all the members that have offered advice.
Thanks everyone.
George
#8
john
#9
Not too bad
#10
Ask at the machine shop
if they quote $10 a bolt, have them do it
the hassle and time alone are worth that
It's very easy to drill way off center and then it gets ugly. Machine shops have mills and similar machinery to locate the drill properly.
Like any frozen fastener, heat and proper lube are the keys
The only 2 lubes worthy of this task, in my considerable experience with such things from rusty MI cars, are:
1) half ATF half Acetone [voodoo juice], and
2) Candle Wax
Wax is the best, but does make flammable fumes, so work safely.
Heat is by far the most crucial element, along with time.
Too small a torch will never do the job, the heat will just slowly heat everything. You want the surrounding head red hot and the fastener much cooler first.
Be sure to use anti-seize when you assemble.
if they quote $10 a bolt, have them do it
the hassle and time alone are worth that
It's very easy to drill way off center and then it gets ugly. Machine shops have mills and similar machinery to locate the drill properly.
Like any frozen fastener, heat and proper lube are the keys
The only 2 lubes worthy of this task, in my considerable experience with such things from rusty MI cars, are:
1) half ATF half Acetone [voodoo juice], and
2) Candle Wax
Wax is the best, but does make flammable fumes, so work safely.
Heat is by far the most crucial element, along with time.
Too small a torch will never do the job, the heat will just slowly heat everything. You want the surrounding head red hot and the fastener much cooler first.
Be sure to use anti-seize when you assemble.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RAMBOW
The Clubhouse
3
August 13th, 2012 05:29 PM